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jim land
SILVER Star
don't waste your time , First is ,get some stock or 3" shackles and start from there for caster shims needed
- Thread starter
- #63
stock shackle what is the measurement from center to center of the mounting bolts I don't mind buying different shackles but there seems to be a few comments on that subject, do not want to waste money if that is not the issue and if I do buy new ones [greaseable bolts or not] thanks.
Call Cruiser Outfitters. @cruiseroutfit Know your bushing size so you can talk to them to make sure they are the same as stock. They will know what measurements you need. They have all the stock size shackles.
That’s the best looking Honda I’ve ever seen.
Skreddy
SILVER Star
I’d take off the extra steering stabilizer too.
I have a 1970 with a 2.5” lift, 1” longer than stock shackles and 2 degree shims and have proper caster. As said, I’m betting your issue is elsewhere.
Take a tape measure, wheels straight forward and measure toe in. You can do a quick check a couple ways.
1. (On front tire only) measure the inside of front of tire to inside of front of tire, then same spot on the back side of frint tire.
2. Find a “centerline” lug of the tire and measure tire to tire on that point, both front and back of front tire.
3. Have a helper and hold a 2x4 across each tire and measure between them front and back.
Like said, jack it up and turn the wheels and see if it’s smooth, etc.
I have a 1970 with a 2.5” lift, 1” longer than stock shackles and 2 degree shims and have proper caster. As said, I’m betting your issue is elsewhere.
Take a tape measure, wheels straight forward and measure toe in. You can do a quick check a couple ways.
1. (On front tire only) measure the inside of front of tire to inside of front of tire, then same spot on the back side of frint tire.
2. Find a “centerline” lug of the tire and measure tire to tire on that point, both front and back of front tire.
3. Have a helper and hold a 2x4 across each tire and measure between them front and back.
Like said, jack it up and turn the wheels and see if it’s smooth, etc.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
The effects of Neg Caster is squirrelly control and a feeling like your chasing the steering and always over correcting. Positive caster does help with the wheel to self center. My knuckles need to be rebuilt, the trunion bearings are worn and are notchy and the wheel self-centers after a turn just fine. My tres are probably original. I have about 1*+caster and toe in is spot on. It handles great at high speeds and goes where I point it. I'll likely add a couple od degrees anyway. My guess his electric power steering may be part of the issue, but he needs to get the steering geometry dialed in 1st. Maybe he tighten the streeing box or center arm so they're stiff. The OPs numbers aren't credible, except for when it was on the alignment rack, and he is unclear how the suspension was set up then. Something close to Skreddy's set up should work for him.
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Hello all, this isn't the right thread but I am coming up short on finding what I am looking for. I have a 85 FJ70 and the caster is off from side to side. Driver side I have +1, and passenger is -3. So 4 degrees between the two. SPC88904 used to be available, but the company has discontinued making those offset bearings, and only sell ones for the 80 series now.... 
I have a massive pull to the right, and am tired of the annoyance, it's also dangerous. My only option is to cut the axle tube, rotate the (round half moon the trunnion bearings install into???) knuckle, and re-weld. I would like to know if this is common, if there is a decent write up on this procedure, if the (round half moon part of the axle) slips into the axle tube and is then welded, or if it just butts up against it. Depending on that info, will dictate where I cut the tube, if I try to cut the factory weld and rotate being careful how deep I go, etc. Any help would be great!
I have a massive pull to the right, and am tired of the annoyance, it's also dangerous. My only option is to cut the axle tube, rotate the (round half moon the trunnion bearings install into???) knuckle, and re-weld. I would like to know if this is common, if there is a decent write up on this procedure, if the (round half moon part of the axle) slips into the axle tube and is then welded, or if it just butts up against it. Depending on that info, will dictate where I cut the tube, if I try to cut the factory weld and rotate being careful how deep I go, etc. Any help would be great!
It might be easier just to find a new axle, one that isn’t tweaked….then swap your components into it. Just a thought.Hello all, this isn't the right thread but I am coming up short on finding what I am looking for. I have a 85 FJ70 and the caster is off from side to side. Driver side I have +1, and passenger is -3. So 4 degrees between the two. SPC88904 used to be available, but the company has discontinued making those offset bearings, and only sell ones for the 80 series now....
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Are you sure? Are we confusing caster with camber? If you do a search for "cut and turn", which is sometimes done to the frt axle when folks do a "spring over axle"(soa) lift. They have to align the driveshaft/pinion angle 1st, then cut the weld at the ball and rotate it to get the proper caster The ball has a collar on it which slides into the axle tube and then its welded. To get a proper caster measurement the weight of the vehicle needs to be on the suspension and the vehicle needs to be level.
I agree with Mark, there's something going on with that housing. The caster angles from side to side should be the same from the factory. Ive never heard of off set bearings.
I agree with Mark, there's something going on with that housing. The caster angles from side to side should be the same from the factory. Ive never heard of off set bearings.
Knuckle Bearings Kit - 3° Offset - Fits 1990-1997 80/450 Applications (FA88920)
Offset Knuckle Bearings for Toyota Tundra
cruiserteq.com
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
What's the condition of the trunion bearings? When were the knuckles last serviced?
Yeah, it's the caster, not confusing it with camber. Everything was measured on flat ground with weight on the vehicle. The front right side of the axle definitely had something bad happen to it, as it had a camber several degrees more positive than the driver. I ended up making a shim to go between the knuckle and spindle, similar to those used on Dana front axles, and my camber is now in check. Camber and thrust angle was what I imagined was always causing a pull. When I finally rectified all those things, and bought new tires, she was still flying off the road. So, I finally checked caster... You can imagine why I was reluctant to do so... Good to know the ball has a collar, would be interesting to know how long, but I'll look up a "cut and turn" and see what I can find.
New bearings, rebuilt the entire front end about 25,000 kilometers ago.
If I can find one, I believe it would. Also, could kill two birds with one stone and get one already setup for disk brakes..
Yeah... Been that way since I bought it in 2017, don't know if someone locked up the brakes and went for a slide into a curb, or what exactly could have caused it to twist. Wouldn't think a wheel coming down while trying to climb something could do that, but maybe...I was planning on offset bearings of 2.2 degrees on both sides to bring them together, until I found out they were discontinued.
