Caster Correction Help (1 Viewer)

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I will be installing a set of OME J's up front and heavies in the rear in the near future. What is the recommended degree of caster correction for the J's? What is the best solution?

Also, I intend to put a ARB upfront...eventually, but not right now.

Also, as you lift the front you need to compensate for axle rotation...but what about the rear? Wouldnt the same effect happen to the rear axle? Is there correction that needs to take place on the rear as well?

All advise / opinions appreciated!!!:cheers:
 

CreeperSleeper

Cascade Cruisers
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Each rig is a little different. If it were me, I would get everything sorted out, then find out how much correction you need. (It won't drive that bad in the mean time... Trust me.)

As for the rear, the tires don't turn, so there is nothing to be concerned with.

HTH! :cheers:
 
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Installing the springs and shocks and getting a caster sweep at an alignment shop, before adding any caster correction. You'll probably be in the negative range but it will give you the starting point to figure out how much correction you need to get back to +3*.

Is this your DD?
 
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Not really. I drive it alot on the weekends and evenings, but not my to/from work car. Its about 50/50 between dirt and asphalt.

So it needs to be +3 to be back to stock and any place that does alignments can check this for me?
 
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You could also buy an angle finder at most any hardware store and stick it on top of your axle somewhere that the magnetic base will get some good purchase. Ideally you can find a spot on top of the steering knuckle but I suppose the bracket where the radius/control arms attach would work as well. Take the reading and then jack up the front of the vehicle to the new estimated height (3.5 inches or so) and take the new reading. The difference between the readings is the amount of caster correction you will need. Note that this will not give you the actual caster measurement but it will get you back to where you are now once the new springs are installed. I suppose I should also point out that this should be done *before* you swap the springs.
 
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Not really. I drive it alot on the weekends and evenings, but not my to/from work car. Its about 50/50 between dirt and asphalt.

So it needs to be +3 to be back to stock and any place that does alignments can check this for me?

I asked because to go this route means your truck may not have any CC for a bit until whatever method will work for you (bushings, plates, drop brackets, etc.) shows up at your doorstep and you get them installed. This is probably the most exact method of figuring out how much correction you'll need. You add the height, you get your starting measurement, figure out your correction, install, and then go get finished caster measurement.

Factory spec is 2-4* of positive caster so +3* is the target, usually. Any place that can do alignments should be able to do a caster sweep. Try to make it a place you know knows how to properly set the vehicle on the rack. If you tell them you just want the readings--they don't have to adjust anything--they hopefully will charge you less.

Do a search on caster correction, and throw in Landtank or me for a user name and you'll find where mine was hashed out and where he and others have helped others hash theirs out.
 

FJBen

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Slee caster plates or Landtank's setup :)

but...there is the possiblity with those that you will need a DC driveshaft to get the range right.
 

Clutchee

I'm fun sized!
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I will be installing a set of OME J's up front and heavies in the rear in the near future. What is the recommended degree of caster correction for the J's? What is the best solution?

Also, I intend to put a ARB upfront...eventually, but not right now.

Also, as you lift the front you need to compensate for axle rotation...but what about the rear? Wouldnt the same effect happen to the rear axle? Is there correction that needs to take place on the rear as well?

All advise / opinions appreciated!!!:cheers:

Hey bud....not to rain on your parade......just food for thought.
Each truck is different but a ongoing resolve may be coming.....the 2.5 lift install & no issues....the J's begin to go into that area making tuning a issue.

Installing the J's on the wifes caused a vibe at 5mph & 45mph, removed from shaft & confirmed the vibe was from the front drive line.

Added Slee caster plates, then a double cardon front drive shaft, then drop blocks for the sway bar (now removed)

Just letting you know.....some folks have no issues, we on the other hand went through the above.
 
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Joined
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Definitely want to support what everyone is saying--be prepared for more than you think. And then you can be surprised if it's less than you expect.

I have Heavies all around with an ARB up front, no winch, single battery. I was down in the negatives for caster and chose to go with Landtank's plates after looking at the possibilities and talking to him. I corrected with the goal of being set up for a DC driveshaft if I needed one. Now my caster is back where it should be, but I have a driveline vibe. So I serviced both driveshafts, new u-joints, and it's better but still there. I am currently in the process of sourcing a Tacoma double carden driveshaft to mod for the front of my rig. Once that's done, I'll see how it goes.

So, yeah, install those springs and shocks, and go get a caster sweep. Post up the caster readings after that and I'm sure you'll get all kinds of advice on how to correct it--you may even get one guy saying you don't need anything! :rolleyes:

Good luck!
 

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