Can we go tubeless? Dunlop SP Qualifier 7.5 r16 mystery

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I have mounted a set of these new Dunlop tires on a set of 16/6 6 lug oem tubeless rims on a cruiser in Europe I have not driven it as it is one for inventory coming over here in a few years but last time I've seen it all tires where still holding air after sitting for a few months.

In Europe it is pretty common that people take the tires of these new split wheels and then run em on tubeless wheels apparently without issues.
 
I have mounted a set of these new Dunlop tires on a set of 16/6 6 lug oem tubeless rims on a cruiser in Europe I have not driven it as it is one for inventory coming over here in a few years but last time I've seen it all tires where still holding air after sitting for a few months.

In Europe it is pretty common that people take the tires of these new split wheels and

I respectfully disagree with tube type tires on wheels intended for tubeless tires but I only say that for peace of mind. Last thing I want is four flat assemblies due to poor sealing between the rim flange and tire bead during air inflation process.

In fact I would only run them on splits. Just my two cents.
I drove 6000km in 6 days no issues. All in all two months of Alaska and Yukon travel.
Drove the Dempster Highway which is gravel no issues.
Trailer hauls hardwood on old logging roads not one issue.
Tubeless will give you a warning, tube failure is generally quick.
Good clean rims to start probably help.
 
I drove 6000km in 6 days no issues. All in all two months of Alaska and Yukon travel.
Drove the Dempster Highway which is gravel no issues.
Trailer hauls hardwood on old logging roads not one issue.
Tubeless will give you a warning, tube failure is generally quick.
Good clean rims to start probably help.
I've driven those roads. If you had no issues, there is no more as demanding a road test on this earth.
 
I got two flat tires from 18+ hours of continuous driving on the highway
Possible rust inside the rim rubbing holes in the tube
NOTE: A tubeless tire will generally leak down slowly giving you time to pull over if you are a attentive driver whereas a tube tire fails rapidly.
My experience also. The tube usually shreds itself inside the tyre as it deflates.
 
How about using a tube in a tubeless tire and tubeless wheel?
I have a leaky wheel and I put a tube in and made it the spare.
 
How about using a tube in a tubeless tire and tubeless wheel?
I have a leaky wheel and I put a tube in and made it the spare.
I think it's ok for a spare but I have read that radial tires (and I assume your tubeless tire is radial which might be incorrect) will rub a hole in a tube relatively quickly. I have no personal experience; just what I have read.
 
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I am not sure why radial tires would rub a hole in a tube. Is it the ribbing inside that is the root cause?
 
I put 6-lug to 5-lug adapters on my axles and am running the new split rims that came with new tires already mounted and balanced.
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I've had no issues with the tires and rims at all.
I did have a "clicking" noise a couple months after mounting. A few of the allen bolts on the adapters were starting to loosen. Use lock tight!
 
The website I got mine from seems to have disappeared.
I got 4 adapters for $225 after a $25 off sale coupon. The centers were not big enough to slip over the axles, so I took them to a machine shop and had them bored out so they fit right. Cost me $25 extra for them to do the 4.

Here's some I found with a little digging.

 
I got 5 new take-off wheels and tires for $250. Another $250 for the adapters and $150 for shipping the wheels and tires.

$650 is pretty good for all new stuff. I had holes rusted through my old split rims.

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Hard to tell, but thats rubber showing in the rust hole.
 
Widened the stance a little, but nothing hangs outside the fenders.
I think I like it better!



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I think it's ok for a spare but I have read that radial tires (and I assume your tubeless tire is radial which might be incorrect) will rub a hole in a tube relatively quickly. I have no personal experience; just what I have read.
Thank you, that makes sense. I expect the valve stem at the wheel could wear out as well. All probably worse at low air pressure.
 
I got 5 new take-off wheels and tires for $250. Another $250 for the adapters and $150 for shipping the wheels and tires.

$650 is pretty good for all new stuff. I had holes rusted through my old split rims.

Hard to tell, but thats rubber showing in the rust hole.
I'm sure you know this but just in case someone else doesn't, the OEM 6 lug splits are still available new. They would have cost you about double what you have in the adapters though.
 
I'm sure you know this but just in case someone else doesn't, the OEM 6 lug splits are still available new. They would have cost you about double what you have in the adapters though.

Yeah. Another reason I went this route is that, so long as new take-off stuff from the 79 series remains available, I should be able to bolt on a new tire and rim for half the price that a new tire alone would normally cost.

I benefit from the fact that NOBODY wants these.

And the fact that I personally think it's the best looking wheel out there!

I'm not running splits for there own sake, though I don't mind them at all. If my favorite style rim was solid, and could be had for $50 with a tire mounted and balanced; I'd be running solid rims.
 
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