Can my stock spare tire carrier hold a 33? (4 Viewers)

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I just made the move from little old stock tires on my '70 FJ40 to 33" Kenda Klevers, and as soon as I put one on the spare carrier I questioned my sanity. First off, thanks to @zerotreedelta for the spacer- the tire is in the right place on both axes. It's just so damn heavy and there's a ton of play in the carrier (spacer is solid).

My question is: if the stock carrier is tightened up and the slop is removed, do you think it would be strong enough to hold this big tire (w/spacer adding leverage)? Or is it a doomed mission from the start?

Big tire:
IMG_3261.jpg


Here's the spacer in place:
IMG_3262.jpg


One point of weakness- this rubber grommet isn't touching. Will this add much stability if replaced?
IMG_3264.jpg


Both hinges have play in them. Can they be refurbed/new gaskets?

IMG_3265.jpg


I know it's hard to say, but that's a lot of work to put into the stock carrier (also needs a new stud to the spacer) and if it's a fool's errand to begin please tell me.
 
Pull the cotter pins, thighten, reinstall, spray some lube in the hinges, go to Ace and get a bigger piece of rubber to put on rusted bolt to keep the whole thing from slapping & run it.
 
New "pin bushings" helped the most on my '76. Nylon would have been better, but I 3D printed mine with PETG and they've held up pretty well. I ended up using some fresh grade-8 bolts as the pins, and it all fit snug.

The little rubber "feet" could be found on Amazon...between the two, no wiggle/jiggle.
 
What I would be concerned about is the tub where spare tire carrier bolts on to. The condition of rear sill is also a concern. The main plate is heavier than the later models. Reconditioned the hinges are find. It's the area around the bracket above the wheel well and end the rear sill you want to keep an eye on for stress cracks. The condition of tubs are fifty years plus can vary greatly.
 
agreed. the tub has a little flex where the carrier bolts, not gonna lie. But it's solid, no rust. near either hinge attachment point.

Anyone know which parts vendor has pin bushings or that rubber plug? I've looked on CCOT, cruiserparts and not finding anything.
 
agreed. the tub has a little flex where the carrier bolts, not gonna lie. But it's solid, no rust. near either hinge attachment point.

Not sure how you uses yours, most mine is in Northern Arizona where washboard forest service roads are common. Enough flexing and you get stress cracks.
 
As you've already seen, the extra weight of the larger tire is pulling the stopper away from door/body. It also has been brought up about the hinge connection to the body sheet metal. I can tell you first hand that the body will not last long with that size tire bouncing around back there. It will crack. I'd look at third party carriers like 4Plus that mount to the rear frame crossmember and don't connect to the tub. If you put the bumpers back in place and the tire sits on top taking up some of the weight from the carrier, it will delay your tub from cracking but not prevent it, it will crack eventually.
 
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I just made the move from little old stock tires on my '70 FJ40 to 33" Kenda Klevers, and as soon as I put one on the spare carrier I questioned my sanity. First off, thanks to @zerotreedelta for the spacer- the tire is in the right place on both axes. It's just so damn heavy and there's a ton of play in the carrier (spacer is solid).

My question is: if the stock carrier is tightened up and the slop is removed, do you think it would be strong enough to hold this big tire (w/spacer adding leverage)? Or is it a doomed mission from the start?

Big tire:
View attachment 3371063

Here's the spacer in place:
View attachment 3371067

One point of weakness- this rubber grommet isn't touching. Will this add much stability if replaced?
View attachment 3371065

Both hinges have play in them. Can they be refurbed/new gaskets?

View attachment 3371064

I know it's hard to say, but that's a lot of work to put into the stock carrier (also needs a new stud to the spacer) and if it's a fool's errand to begin please tell me.
I just got the same tires and face the same question.
 
Here’s a 35x10.5r15 on stock swing out (later tube style) with spacer to clear latch. No issues, handles the banging around on trail without issue.

On an earlier swing out, just put in new bushings to tighten up and tighten up latch to body and you’ll be fine. 33s on an early plate tire carrier is just fine. Here’s a video of my last 40 doing just that.

IMG_3845.jpeg


 
I've had a 33 on my stock 76 plate tire carrier for 20 years with no problems. Haven't noticed any cracks on the body either. It's not ideal but it can be done.
 
Upper body mount on mine is completely stress fractured, it’s on the list to be repaired. Although the top backing plate was not stock, and not properly mounted.
1689168568105.jpeg
 
On my 69 running 33's, I just moved the mount higher on the swing out. Clears the bottom and no need for a spacer. Only has 4 bolts instead of 6, but seems plenty sturdy.
 
Here’s a 35x10.5r15 on stock swing out (later tube style) with spacer to clear latch. No issues, handles the banging around on trail without issue.

On an earlier swing out, just put in new bushings to tighten up and tighten up latch to body and you’ll be fine. 33s on an early plate tire carrier is just fine. Here’s a video of my last 40 doing just that.

View attachment 3371579




Problem we have in Arizona is getting to the hard spot is traveling on washboard roads. The length driven in that clip body would have flexed the body couple hundred times. With live axles it trying to find that sweet speed that reduces the bounce and not start floating sideways. It's a novelty seeing any off road racers with live axles. It's repeating vibrations that causing stress cracks.
 
Problem we have in Arizona is getting to the hard spot is traveling on washboard roads. The length driven in that clip body would have flexed the body couple hundred times. With live axles it trying to find that sweet speed that reduces the bounce and not start floating sideways. It's a novelty seeing any off road racers with live axles. It's repeating vibrations that causing stress cracks.
Not just arizona, most desert trail roads/forest access roads are badly washboarded, my least favorite - just comes with the territory. 15psi on C rated tires does the trick for me and play with the speed.
 
My 72 and 75 had the spare on the drivers side ,which I prefer. The problem I had with the plate design was it shook and squeaked, and periodically it would become unlatched. I ran a 32" tire on it and finally one of the lug studs pulled thru the heavy sheetmetal mount. I then went to the stronger tube design. The biggest complaint I have with the offset spare tire carrier mount was on off camber wet muddy trails and the rear of the 40 would sometimes slide to the left and a tree would end up between the body and the spare tire, like a hook. I would have to remove the tire to free the 40, pull forward and reinstall the spare. That's why my trail 40 spare is mounted in the center and the mounting is heavily reinforced so I can lean on it with the vehicle if I have to.
 

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