California Smog... Again

[jeremyg]

Hi all, I've been working on my '85 FJ60 on this build thread, but figured it would be easier to post another for the smog specific advice/work. I've also been following your smog thread @mbxmikey and thanks all that have contributed there!

I took the beast in to get smogged soon after buying it. I wasn't expecting to pass and wanted to just see what the issues were to try to fix them before the free re-test. Here's the smog report that I need a bit of help de-coding by the FJ wizards here.

What I know/have worked on so far:

• Modified Spark Controls: There were a few misrouted vacuum hoses to the distributor and I had to replace a VTV or two. Should be good now (although I didn't test the diaphragm connected to the distributor. Should I do that?
• Modified Vacuum Lines: I think this was in concert with the spark controls. I have the emissions guide and have now traced through the spaghetti monster. Checked most of the easy valves and replaced almost all the hoses, but didn't completely rip apart the system to thoroughly check everything. In your experience, should I be checking all the diaphragms etc.?
• Missing Thermostatic Air Cleaner: Unfortunately, this smog check mechanic was very thorough and noticed that I didn't have the tube from bottom of the air intake (below the HAI diaphragm) to the air cleaner assembly coming off the exhaust. I didn't see that in the engine bay at all so I'm guessing it's disintegrated like I've read on some other threads here. I bought a hot air riser tube from City Racer and probably just going to make a simple bracket to mount to the same points and attach the host to. It would be the same as the original structure around the manifold, but should at least get closer to pulling hot air and pass the smog visual. Honestly, I think my HAI diaphragm is shot, so this is more for a visual rather than practical. I'll take a look at that in the longer term once I pass smog.
• Ignition Timing: I've read that this should be 7* (stock) but 5* may help me pass smog. I've never worked on an old car period - much less one with manual timing and a carburetor. I have a family friend that can help me set timing and has a timing light. Should be straightforward.

Now to the fun emissions aspect...

• O2: this looks basically non-existant. From other threads, seems like this means my air pump/smog pump is dead. I can do some homework on that and need to test according to the emissions manual to confirm this, but likely have to buy a new one. Seems like the Cardone is the easiest/cheapest/decent path forward according to this sweet thread evaluating the smog pump options. Any ideas on the O2 in general? The cardone seems like a mixed bags of reviews, but will work...
• HC: I'm pretty close here. Do you think fixing all the vacuum hoses/emissions systems rundown will fix this? Or could there be a more significant root cause? Planning to run some denatured alcohol in the tank (or at least higher octane fuel for the test). Does that help with hydrocarbons?
• CO: Oof. Looks like death to me... I probably need a new california rated cat, but any other big issues that might be driving my CO up that high? I think my exhaust pipe donut gasket is bad and leaking exhaust which I will replace, but probably doesn't affect the CO levels. Any suggestions here? Will a new cat be enough to drag this all the way down to passing?

Last step I think is tuning my carburetor (which I'm a bit hesitant to do myself without an expert...). I'm in Torrance (south LA) so hoping to get up to Mike's Offroad or anyone else around here with some FJ experience to do at least my initial tune. I'm running at 770-ish RPM at idle and the smog mech told me stock is 650 and I need to be +/- 100 RPM from that.

Thanks in advance for any comments/advice/insults you toss my way!!

Jeremy

 

[CaptHamster]

I can't help much with the smog stuff since I have an FJ62, slightly different situation...however, specifically regarding the air pump; it's a bit of a drive from Torrance, but I have used B-Z Rebuilders in Canoga Park to secure a rebuilt air pump. Sometimes they'll have Land Cruiser air pumps in stock, if not they will do the rebuild on your unit. If they have one already, you can turn yours in as a core and take some of the price off, or do what I did; bought the one they had on the shelf and had them rebuild my original as a spare!

Good luck on your smog journey. The search bar is your friend on this website but it seems you have already done some research...keep looking and you'll get your truck squared away!

 

[Spike Strip]

Without pictures, seems like getting your carb mix right and Air Injection figured out (very important) and various hoses plumbed properly will get you a lot closer to passing.

I would strongly suggest first going to the top menu - pull down the 'Merch' tab. Click on 'Silver/Gold' tab. Buy a $20 / yr subscription so you can post unlimited pix. You're going to need to and it will save you $$$ avoiding the parts cannon getting her to pass smog.

It's Mark's Off Road in Burbank. Mark is a great resource to baseline your truck and he'll give you a thorough assessment of what you will need (I'm guessing a carb rebuild is in your future if truck does have > 350K miles on it with original carb).

Not sure of his business hours these days so best to call him and leave a msg 818-953-9230

Marks Off Road Home Page

Mark's Off Road, home of the Ruftoys offers new, used, and rebuilt parts and accessories for the FJ40 Toyota Landcruiser. Full service and restoration-quality work available for everything we sell.

marksoffroad.net

@65swb45

Link to Emissions FSM for hose routing.

FSM - 2F Engine Emission Control, 1981, 36043E

forum.ih8mud.com

Also, I just noticed @Engineer8000 posted a bunch of his rebuilt Emissions computers for sale for a very good price. In Kalif you REALLY need to make sure you have a functioning one of these:

For Sale - NC, 81+ 2F Emissions Computer

I have 7 of these fully tested and ready to go. $100 each + $10.40 for the small flat rate box.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[2mbb]

I am going through this, too, in NorCal. I am away from home currently and left some details behind (smog report), so I'm not yet posting my own thread.

I had just rebuilt my carburetor and the first test I failed as GROSS POLLUTER on both HC and CO with measurable residual O2. Back at home I inspected the carburetor and realized that I had swapped locations for the 1st and 2nd slow jets. On the second try I was passing HC but still failing CO with low to zero O2.

The 2F Emissions manual is a necessary resource if you are trying to do the work yourself or are using a mechanic that is not a vintage Land Cruiser expert. (20 years ago I couldn't pass and took my FJ60 to a toyota dealership. I had to let them use my 2F emissions manual as they didn't seem to have access to one and in the end they didn't fix the problem).

Low residual oxygen is not necessarily simply an air pump problem so do some testing first. However, 20 years ago I did replace the air pump as well as the catalytic converter and then it passed.

Also look in the emissions manual for procedures to adjust the idle mixture. this is called the Lean Drop method. This does generally work for me to get passing results (unless there are other issues).

Good Luck.

 

[OSS]

If you’re in Torrance- test it at this shop in Gardena. That’s where I always went. The owner is cool and he’s familiar with the FJ60 (he knows my vehicle).
You can see what my O2 levels were on a passed rest. I never failed.

Always always always — give your engine a full tune up before a smog test and drive it on the freeway for 15-20 minutes before pulling into the shop - and don’t turn off the engine while waiting your turn. If you time your test right when he opens, you won’t have to wait in line.

Your numbers are real close. Old dirty oil can increase HC numbers too because of blow by - so always change the oil before a test.

 

[jeremyg]

@OSS I’ll check out John’s automotive when I’m ready to test. Fairly close to my work as well

@Spike Strip thanks for the wisdom. Will have to see what Mark’s backlog is like at the moment.

 

[jeremyg]

Tore into the air injection system to trouble shoot and hoping for some confirmations here. Brand new VTV so I know that’s not the problem. In checking both the ASV and the ABV per the FSM, I didn’t even get a whisper out of them. Figured it was a bigger issue so I ripped off the whole system to get to the air pump.

While the engine is idling:

1) The air intake hose is doing nothing. When I disconnected from the air filter, I would expect a tiny vacuum the air pump is sucking but felt nothing.
2) The air pump output hose is doing nothing. Would expect at least a breeze to be blowing out of there.
3) The hose to the engine was actually exhausting hot air - presumably because there was no positive pressure.

Before I go order a new air pump (or rebuild), any other relevant knowledge bombs to drop? I’m assuming the air pump should just be blowing 24/7 when the engine is idling (remember this is directly from the air pump, not after any valves). Hopefully with a new air pump I can check that my valves are working.

 

[jeremyg]

Also, while I was testing, I took the chance to clean out all the metal tubing in the air injection system. Mine had looooads of rust and buildup in them. Is this normal for an engine with 360k miles on it? Anything particularly horrible that might point to another issue?

All the tubing looked like this (plus a few more spoonfuls of rust that dropped out).

And after hitting them with a drill and bristle brush (very cathartic):

Ready to reassemble, getting new bolts and new hoses tomorrow. Still couldn’t test the valves so I’m just keeping my fingers crossed for now.

 

[OSS]

Yeah the air injection system just transports outside air. If the vehicle lived it’s previous life near the ocean or (Louisiana) the metal parts will be corroded after 40 years.

 

[fjc-man]

Tore into the air injection system to trouble shoot and hoping for some confirmations here. Brand new VTV so I know that’s not the problem. In checking both the ASV and the ABV per the FSM, I didn’t even get a whisper out of them. Figured it was a bigger issue so I ripped off the whole system to get to the air pump.

View attachment 3632915

While the engine is idling:

1) The air intake hose is doing nothing. When I disconnected from the air filter, I would expect a tiny vacuum the air pump is sucking but felt nothing.
2) The air pump output hose is doing nothing. Would expect at least a breeze to be blowing out of there.
3) The hose to the engine was actually exhausting hot air - presumably because there was no positive pressure.

Before I go order a new air pump (or rebuild), any other relevant knowledge bombs to drop? I’m assuming the air pump should just be blowing 24/7 when the engine is idling (remember this is directly from the air pump, not after any valves). Hopefully with a new air pump I can check that my valves are working.

B-Z Rebuilders will completely rebuild your air pump for 250.00 their in Canoga Park. Quick turn around too.

 

[The Machinist]

Something that nobody thinks about with the California smog test is gear ratios. If you get everything else sorted out but are still struggling to pass and your truck has oversized tires with stock gears, switching the rear tires out to OEM sized tires will make a big difference. I used to keep a pair of junk wheels and ~29" tires from a used tire shop just to pass smog every two years.

Since California requires testing to be done on a dyno at two set speeds, you need your engine to be in the correct rpm and load range for the emissions system to work correctly. If your oversized tires are causing the engine to work harder at the set testing RPM's, your resulting emissions will be significantly higher.

 

[Spike Strip]

If you're not getting any suction or blow from the Air Pump hoses, pump is probably shot or it has been gutted. You won't get a lot of suction, but at 2500 rpm, both the suction and pump exhaust can be felt with your hand, depending on what tube exhaust is being directed to. I think it's around 7 lbs of pressure.

BZ Rebuilders requires a 'Rebuildable Core' If yours is gutted by a PO, not sure if that will qualify.

Was the truck purchased in CA or outside ?

'The Machinist' makes a good point about Tire size / gearing. It does affect emissions.

 

[jeremyg]

Here’s the smog history per the Carfax so looks like it was passing smog in California for years. Unfortunately, looks like there was a single PO for about 2 decades that I’m not in contact with. I only met the PO before me who let the car sit for 2 years after buying it in 2022 (and self-admittedly “knows nothing about cars” ). I doubt the air pump is gutted. I’ll try it again at higher RPM (only checked at idle) and if still no motion I’ll check out BZ.

@The Machinist good shout on the tires. Definitely larger than stock rn (a good reminder to check what’s on there) so will keep that in mind. Hopefully a last ditch effort.

 

[jeremyg]

If you’re in Torrance- test it at this shop in Gardena. That’s where I always went. The owner is cool and he’s familiar with the FJ60 (he knows my vehicle).
You can see what my O2 levels were on a passed rest. I never failed.

Always always always — give your engine a full tune up before a smog test and drive it on the freeway for 15-20 minutes before pulling into the shop - and don’t turn off the engine while waiting your turn. If you time your test right when he opens, you won’t have to wait in line.

Your numbers are real close. Old dirty oil can increase HC numbers too because of blow by - so always change the oil before a test.

View attachment 3632569

Looks like John’s Automotive is now Paul’s Auto Center. Is Paul just as good as John? Will we ever know?

 

[fjc-man]

Something that nobody thinks about with the California smog test is gear ratios. If you get everything else sorted out but are still struggling to pass and your truck has oversized tires with stock gears, switching the rear tires out to OEM sized tires will make a big difference. I used to keep a pair of junk wheels and ~29" tires from a used tire shop just to pass smog every two years.

Since California requires testing to be done on a dyno at two set speeds, you need your engine to be in the correct rpm and load range for the emissions system to work correctly. If your oversized tires are causing the engine to work harder at the set testing RPM's, your resulting emissions will be significantly higher.

In Colorado emissions testing requires stock size tires/wheels on the vehicle for the test on the rollers.

 

[fjc-man]

If you're not getting any suction or blow from the Air Pump hoses, pump is probably shot or it has been gutted. You won't get a lot of suction, but at 2500 rpm, both the suction and pump exhaust can be felt with your hand, depending on what tube exhaust is being directed to. I think it's around 7 lbs of pressure.

BZ Rebuilders requires a 'Rebuildable Core' If yours is gutted by a PO, not sure if that will qualify.

Was the truck purchased in CA or outside ?

'The Machinist' makes a good point about Tire size / gearing. It does affect emissions.

What are you getting for a rebuilt air pump?

 

[majdomo]

Second on using BZ for rebuilding the smog pump. If it's not a DD you can ship it there and back within a week, probably. It's a total pain to get to from SGV, let alone the South Bay. They're around the corner from K&H in Canoga Park.

My experience with this is documented in the FJ62 thread, but similar situation until I replaced the cats. Note that I did not rebuild the smog pump until after passing smog, so my O2 numbers were at 0. My '77 FJ40 wouldn't pass smog until I had Mark rebuild the carb, as noted above you can reach him by phone. I'd start with the carb rebuild, making sure all smog items are in place, then check where you're at before spending $$ on cats but knowing... that's probably where you're headed.

Links to associated builds: FJ62, FJ40.

Good luck!

 

[OSS]

-

Looks like John’s Automotive is now Paul’s Auto Center. Is Paul just as good as John? Will we ever know?

Business was probably bought out. I haven’t been there in years.

 

[Spike Strip]

What are you getting for a rebuilt air pump?

Someone posted $250 now, but it has been many years since I took an Air Pump to them. It was $195 when I did mine.

 

[jeremyg]

Tested the air pump at 2500 RPM today. There was the faintest whisper of a vacuum/breeze on the inlet/outlet but I can’t believe that it would be enough to do anything. We’re talking stick-my-finger-deep-in-the-tube-and-barely-feel-air-molecules-moving levels. Looks like I’ll be making a stop at BZ. Luckily a friend drives up to Thousand Oaks fairly regularly so maybe I can call ahead and then bribe her to make the trip for me

Got the air injection system back together with new bolts. Hoses look bad on the outside but the insides look okay so left them on. I didn’t want to be bothered by ordering specific hoses since the local shop didn’t have anything in 22mm.

Chased more vacuum lines and tested more valves/diaphragms. Need to buy the green VTV between the choke and another VCV. Sometime this weekend/next week I’ll start the EGR system and carb tuning. Luckily a friend let me borrow his timing light and tachometer.