Only if you spin the wrong way..
California Smog... Again
- Thread starter jeremyg
- Start date
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I wasn’t sure so I tried both directions!
I did that when I took my first pump to BZ and Mr. BZ jumped off his stool to stop and lecture me. Pump worked fine (it's the one on the truck now) , but I haven't done it since.
- Thread starter
- #44
- Thread starter
- #45
Installed the pump today. I lost the spacer for the reinstall but grabbed some nylon spacers at Home Depot that did the trick after I trimmed off some of the length so it sat within the mounting bracket. FSM tests were a breeze... (groan). Now just need to order some of the preformed tubing since the original pumps were disintegrating. I also tested my EGR system today and everything seems to be working. Last system in the emissions FSM is the high altitude compensation, which I won't be needing here at beach level (at least for smog) but will eventually check that as well.
Great news today - I found a receipt that the carburetor was replaced in Oct 2022 so I don't think I need a rebuild, just a tune up. Once I get the new hoses, tune the carb and fix the timing, I think I'm going to go back in for another test. If I'm still failing, replacing the cat is the last ditch effort.
Nylon spacer for smog pump install - dimensions and bit I trimmed off. I eyeballed it.
Great news today - I found a receipt that the carburetor was replaced in Oct 2022 so I don't think I need a rebuild, just a tune up. Once I get the new hoses, tune the carb and fix the timing, I think I'm going to go back in for another test. If I'm still failing, replacing the cat is the last ditch effort.
Nylon spacer for smog pump install - dimensions and bit I trimmed off. I eyeballed it.
I'll add to the above list of instructions: Don't overtighten the drive belt. Easy to do with the adjustment bolt. If you don't have a measuring tool, then about a 1" deflection at the middle of the longest section is sufficient for a used belt. A new belt should be about 1/2".
- Thread starter
- #47
Smog pump completely connected now with all new 22mm (7/8") hoses. I ordered from Pegasus Auto Racing which seemed to have slightly cheaper prices (shipping considered) than HPS. Part numbers for similar hoses at HPS are noted in this thread.
Per the diagram below, I wanted to replaces hoses 42, 43, 44, and 60 (plus a couple small ones connecting the ABV assembly to the relief valve, near the 5 marker in this diagram). Luckily my 40 and 41 hoses were in great shape. I bought the following from Pegasus:
Hose 43
I had to cut about 3/4" off each end of the elbow, but otherwise fit perfectly.
Hose 60
I was able to use about 10” of straight hose to connect the ABV assembly to the air rail. Unfortunately, the nipple connecting the hose to the air rail is slightly rusted and has a small hole on the nipple that I tried to patch with some JB Weld. Now that the hose is clamped on, I don’t think there’s much air escaping, but I am worried about the tiny diaphragm at the entry to the air rail. The inside of that nipple was pretty rusted and the air rail is rusted externally. Is there any way to test if air from the smog pump is actually going through the air rail into the cylinders?
Hose 42
I was able to recreate this with a 90deg hose, a coupler, and a couple more inches of straight hose. My makeshift hose on top, OEM bottom.
P
Per the diagram below, I wanted to replaces hoses 42, 43, 44, and 60 (plus a couple small ones connecting the ABV assembly to the relief valve, near the 5 marker in this diagram). Luckily my 40 and 41 hoses were in great shape. I bought the following from Pegasus:
- 2x 90deg elbow
- 1x coupler
- 1 meter straight hose
Hose 43
I had to cut about 3/4" off each end of the elbow, but otherwise fit perfectly.
Hose 60
I was able to use about 10” of straight hose to connect the ABV assembly to the air rail. Unfortunately, the nipple connecting the hose to the air rail is slightly rusted and has a small hole on the nipple that I tried to patch with some JB Weld. Now that the hose is clamped on, I don’t think there’s much air escaping, but I am worried about the tiny diaphragm at the entry to the air rail. The inside of that nipple was pretty rusted and the air rail is rusted externally. Is there any way to test if air from the smog pump is actually going through the air rail into the cylinders?
Hose 42
I was able to recreate this with a 90deg hose, a coupler, and a couple more inches of straight hose. My makeshift hose on top, OEM bottom.
P
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- Thread starter
- #48
I messed around tuning the carb; spent some time just playing with it to understand it a bit better. This is all new technology to someone in their 20's (the irony...). First question: When hitting the throttle, I think I only saw the additional spray from accelerator pump in the side of the carb closes to the air filter. Should there be spray from the accelerator pump on both sides of the carb (left and right)?
I then started turning the screws in an attempt at a lean drop. I was a bit confused because I think I found a mistake in a previous post by @2mbb (seems like a very rare occurrence). The post below identifies the high vs normal idle screws correctly, based on my tests:
However, I was originally referencing this post, which seems to identify the high and normal idle screws in opposite positions. Red text mine. Am I missing something here?
Going to try lean drop again tomorrow since I'm a bit more comfortable messing with the carb, and verified that I was treating the normal and fast idle screws correctly.
I then started turning the screws in an attempt at a lean drop. I was a bit confused because I think I found a mistake in a previous post by @2mbb (seems like a very rare occurrence). The post below identifies the high vs normal idle screws correctly, based on my tests:
However, I was originally referencing this post, which seems to identify the high and normal idle screws in opposite positions. Red text mine. Am I missing something here?
Going to try lean drop again tomorrow since I'm a bit more comfortable messing with the carb, and verified that I was treating the normal and fast idle screws correctly.
sorry for any confusion. in the picture below, showing the primary throttle linkage side of the carburetor, the idle speed screw is circled in red and the fast idle speed screw in green. When doing the lean drop method, the engine should be warm and the choke should be off (choke knob pushed in and choke linkage not engaged. with the choke off, the fast idle screw tip should not be touching its stop. The idle speed screw and the idle mixture screw are used with the lean drop method.
Previously I used the terms "higher" and "lower" and these are ambigous. I think I was referring to the location of the tip of the screw and not the slotted head. Sorry about that!
Previously I used the terms "higher" and "lower" and these are ambigous. I think I was referring to the location of the tip of the screw and not the slotted head. Sorry about that!
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- Thread starter
- #50
Thanks for the clarification!
Now time to set timing. Overall the engine is running okay. Using the timing light, my guess is the timing is about 3* or 4* (it’s about halfway between the TDC line and the circle (for 7*). Following the FSM, I checked the dwell angle on this old tach. Waaay below the chart.
The FSM says look for 41* dwell angle. If it’s not that, then adjust the rubbing block gap…
Is that something that really needs to happen before I set the timing? I can’t even see what gap to measure/adjust when I take off the dizzy cap and compare it with the FSM. Any help?
Now time to set timing. Overall the engine is running okay. Using the timing light, my guess is the timing is about 3* or 4* (it’s about halfway between the TDC line and the circle (for 7*). Following the FSM, I checked the dwell angle on this old tach. Waaay below the chart.
The FSM says look for 41* dwell angle. If it’s not that, then adjust the rubbing block gap…
Is that something that really needs to happen before I set the timing? I can’t even see what gap to measure/adjust when I take off the dizzy cap and compare it with the FSM. Any help?
I went to get my 85'FJ Smogged here in Vegas and the darned smog pump sized up in my driveway. I'm sending my pump off to B-Z Rebuilders and I'll let you all know how it goes.
>> Update I sent of my '60 SMOG Pump to get rebuilt by B-Z Re-builders in Caonoga Park CA. They turned it around in one day and sent it back USPS for $285.00 << It looks great and i'm installing it as we speak. <<
>> Update I sent of my '60 SMOG Pump to get rebuilt by B-Z Re-builders in Caonoga Park CA. They turned it around in one day and sent it back USPS for $285.00 << It looks great and i'm installing it as we speak. <<
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- Thread starter
- #54
While tuning the carb and doing ignition timing, I wasn’t happy with the sound of the engine. I’m not an experienced mechanic and wasn’t sure if the rumbling and noises I was hearing were the dreaded “pinging” and “knocking” people talk about. I did take a video but the audio never seems accurate enough to real life.
I took my 60 to MT Auto in Gardena, which a friend recommended as a Land Cruiser friendly mechanic (her dad used to own a 60). Unfortunately, the guy who checked her out just treated her like any other car. Anyway, I let them take a shot at tuning the carb and am paying them to replace the timing cover seal and crank pulley seal because I’m too lazy to pull off the front end. They work with only OEM Toyota parts so happy to give them a bit of business.
Hoping they finish this week so I can get it sniffed at the spot next door. Might be looking at a new cat or a tuneup by someone like Marks Off-road if I don’t pass.
I took my 60 to MT Auto in Gardena, which a friend recommended as a Land Cruiser friendly mechanic (her dad used to own a 60). Unfortunately, the guy who checked her out just treated her like any other car. Anyway, I let them take a shot at tuning the carb and am paying them to replace the timing cover seal and crank pulley seal because I’m too lazy to pull off the front end. They work with only OEM Toyota parts so happy to give them a bit of business.
Hoping they finish this week so I can get it sniffed at the spot next door. Might be looking at a new cat or a tuneup by someone like Marks Off-road if I don’t pass.
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- #55
So here’s my crank pulley. Lots of wear that the mechanic said is a bad idea to put it back on. Trying to troubleshoot it. Sadly it’s not a smog issue so kind of annoying to deal with it at the moment…
Rockauto has them for your year and with / without A/C, fair warning that pricing on these is well past stupid. This looks like it's inboard of the crank seal surface.
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- #58
Long time no update - was on some travels. I had the shop toss on the speedi sleeve. It's been a few months now and so far so good. Lots of leaks but not from the crankshaft pulley anymore.
I finally took it in to get smogged again - this is after I did a complete check of the emissions system and all new hoses and replaced a few engine gaskets. Based on the results, I'm assuming there could still be a vacuum leak in the engine, the EGR system isn't working properly (I checked the EGR valve and it seemed to pass the checks in the manual) or my carb is way out of tune. The car idles a little bit rough, but I'm currently using it as my daily driver and it drives fine.
My current next step is to get a new Cat put in (no idea when the old one was replaced, but it's still a bolt-in rather than a welded in universal cat. I have to assume it's been a while since they've updated. Do you guys think a new cat will get these numbers to pass? I'd love to pass smog and register so I don't have to stress about it while I continue working on the other stuff.
I finally took it in to get smogged again - this is after I did a complete check of the emissions system and all new hoses and replaced a few engine gaskets. Based on the results, I'm assuming there could still be a vacuum leak in the engine, the EGR system isn't working properly (I checked the EGR valve and it seemed to pass the checks in the manual) or my carb is way out of tune. The car idles a little bit rough, but I'm currently using it as my daily driver and it drives fine.
My current next step is to get a new Cat put in (no idea when the old one was replaced, but it's still a bolt-in rather than a welded in universal cat. I have to assume it's been a while since they've updated. Do you guys think a new cat will get these numbers to pass? I'd love to pass smog and register so I don't have to stress about it while I continue working on the other stuff.
- Thread starter
- #59
Another way to look at the data since my last smog. I got the air pump rebuilt, so I thought that my O2 levels would be significantly higher this time...
HC and CO got noticeably better, while NO got way worse....
HC and CO got noticeably better, while NO got way worse....
