California Smog... Again

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So I pulled the smog pump today. Its very clear why it wasn’t moving any air…

So much rust and debris in here I’m surprised it wasn’t completely jammed. At first I thought the carbon vanes had simply crumbled, but a PO must have gutted it since there’s no center shaft or bearings in the assembly. I’ll have to call B-Z tomorrow to ask if this is valid for a rebuild.

I’m also not able to find the Cardone 33-768 anywhere online. I’m also seeing the Cardone 33-701 coming up in searches that looks similar to the “ford” air pump that other mudders may have used. I haven’t seen the actual part number for that though on mud. Anyone know if this works? Or any other leads on a smog pump under $1K if B-Z can’t rebuild mine?

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Yikes! Post up in the classifieds wanted for smog pump or do a search. Folks outside CA may have one sitting around after a desmog. Call BZ and see if they have one on the shelf as well.
 
Can you post some pics of the entire smog pump? Even if it's in pieces. That does not look like an fj60 smog pump, to me. Possibly FJ62 ?
 
Will post a few more pics when I get home.

B-Z Rebuilders quoted me $285 for the rebuild, plus another $100 for a core that they think they can use from a non-FJ60 air pump. Apparently it doesn’t count as a rebuildable core when it doesn’t have the vanes, center shaft, or bearings… 😂

I’m considering just cleaning it up, greasing the bearings, and reinstalling it gutted. I’ve read around that people have still passed smog without a working smog pump. For me, I think this would mean getting the carb tuned/rebuilt and probably a new cat. Any comments/concerns/insults at that approach? I’d rather spend the money on the things that are going to make the most difference in terms of emissions.
 
I’d rather spend the money on the things that are going to make the most difference in terms of emissions.

Air Pump is most important outside of the CAT. Do you have original or replacement CAT?
 
I took my ACV assembly apart (This is the OP's picture below) but I ended up cracking the body trying to get the screws out that hold the bottom port. I tested my relief valve (the single component on the left) and it seems to be leaking--I think it should be sealed up until about 7psi pressure.

By the way, has anyone been able to remove the ABV valve parts. It's at the top in this photo and shown loose, but the valve stem is trapped inside. I guess one would have to remove the top cap on the diaphragm To disconnect the stem from the diaphragm...

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@2mbb How much is BZ charging? I might end up doing this too. I replaced my pump years ago but I still need to see how well it's pushing air.
 
By the way, has anyone been able to remove the ABV valve parts. It's at the top in this photo and shown loose, but the valve stem is trapped inside.

Never tried, as it looks like, as you say, the thing is edge-rolled together. All I've ever done is just cleaned all passages well, sprayed a little Kroil for the valve shafts, tested for function with a hand vac pump, then reassembled with a SINGLE small dab of Blue Loctite on the tip of the screws and a thin smear of Synthetic grease on the mating surfaces if the gaskets aren't too buggered. If gaskets are toast, then a thin smear of High-Temp Gasket Maker.
 
Air Pump is most important outside of the CAT. Do you have original or replacement CAT?
Good to know. I think it's a replacement (judging by lack of rust compared to the downpipe). I tried smacking it with a hammer and didn't hear obvious rattling, but might be worth taking it to a cat shop to check it out. If $500 fixes all the rest of my problems, I'll be happy.
 
Dropped the pump off at B-Z on Thursday afternoon, got it back by Saturday. Eric is a legend and says he’ll be in business for a few more decades so no one worry! I’ll be reinstalling this tomorrow and do the FSM tests to confirm the valves are working.

@Spike Strip look like a FJ60 pump or a FJ62 like you thought?

Here are the photos of the whole pump after I pulled it.
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After getting it back from B-Z…
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That is the correct pump.

CAT won't rust because Stainless steel case. End flanges are carbon steel.
 
DON'T SPIN by hand! Follow the included instructions for break in.
 

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