C & T gone wrong? - Help wanted. (1 Viewer)

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Like Pb4ugo mentioned. Me myself I use a sawzall I made a jig that fits the narrow part of the knuckle ball and over the end of the weld on the tube which I use as a guide for the sawzall. Cuts a perfectly straight cut and in the same spot every time. you can usually start to see the crack as you cut into tube just take your time and go slow. The Sawzall cuts pretty quick with a fresh blade ,also no sparks flying all over the place.
I even leave the knuckles on the past few times and lay on the ground to cut it haha. I set the caster with a magnetic bubble gauge on top the knuckle and I don’t weld it back up until all the weight is on the axles and I have everything how I like it. I set the rig on some jack stands level the axles out ,side to side front to back and then set the caster and pinion angle etc. then weld it all up.
 
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Decided I wanted to start “fresh” so I got the part I ground with a wheel all welded.

Spent way too much $ on some really nice blades and got to work with my sawzall.

Although it’s far from pretty I got about a 1/4 all around.

Been prying it with a long pry bar, still no action but I’m going to got a little deeper and see what happens.
IMG_2059.jpeg
 
Decided I wanted to start “fresh” so I got the part I ground with a wheel all welded.

Spent way too much $ on some really nice blades and got to work with my sawzall.

Although it’s far from pretty I got about a 1/4 all around.

Been prying it with a long pry bar, still no action but I’m going to got a little deeper and see what happens.
View attachment 3828425
Wow that looks pretty deep. Did ya wack it with a hammer a bit and or put a long pipe through the bearing holes and see if you can twist it ,, hmm. It should come loose.
 
no deeper, looks like 1/2"o_O
 
I always like to grind the welds flush, take off stops, then use a pipe cutter. This will give you a straight cut with a constant depth.

yes it looks like you are WAY deep.
 
I always like to grind the welds flush, take off stops, then use a pipe cutter. This will give you a straight cut with a constant depth.

yes it looks like you are WAY deep.
Rob, is it possible that Jackson still isn’t far enough inward passed the factory weld? It’s hard for me to tell how much of that material to the right of the current cut is factory.
 
Looks good to me. Just need a long pipe to turn it. The one I use is about 7 ft. and that's about half of my grrrr face.

IMG_5224.jpeg
 
Rob, is it possible that Jackson still isn’t far enough inward passed the factory weld? It’s hard for me to tell how much of that material to the right of the current cut is factory.
I think location is good, just way to too deep. much more and he will cut it off. Now he needs to bevel it out and do multiple passed to weld it up so he can fill in the groove. Like Conde showed, needs a larger lever.
 
Are you giving more negative caster or did I turn mine the wrong direction. It looks like you need a mouth guard.
I had marked it and was just breaking them loose. I went 12* on pinion angle and 5-6* positive castor IIRC.
 
Wow that looks pretty deep. Did ya wack it with a hammer a bit and or put a long pipe through the bearing holes and see if you can twist it ,, hmm. It should come loose.
That new cut is about 1/4 to 5/16 around right now. I made a looooong pry bar and still nothing. I’m holding back on the cutting now. Gonna try some more heat
 
I always like to grind the welds flush, take off stops, then use a pipe cutter. This will give you a straight cut with a constant depth.

yes it looks like you are WAY deep.
I used to try it that way but my pipe cutter sucked. It would destroy the cutter blades.
Post up a pic of your cutter. I was always told it needed to be a certain type of cutter spring about one with rollers or no rollers or guides I can’t remember and I don’t have my old pipe cutter anymore I lost it somewhere. I also got lazy and stoped grinding the oem weld no point for me. Just stay away from it. Haha

People wanting to practice cutting things loose first can also practice on an old driveshaft if they have one laying around. it’s the same concept. 😁
 
+1 for practice on scrap first or you could turn good stuff into scrap. You can only pull down to your body weight but you can pull up to the limit of your strength. Heat and cool cycles with some percussion therapy can help loosen things.
Watch those guy's at ausarmor wrench on a 80 year old Panzer and such. I like Kroil. A pipe cutter can provide a nice straight line, so does a wide wrap of card stock.
 
Decided I wanted to start “fresh” so I got the part I ground with a wheel all welded.

Spent way too much $ on some really nice blades and got to work with my sawzall.

Although it’s far from pretty I got about a 1/4 all around.

Been prying it with a long pry bar, still no action but I’m going to got a little deeper and see what happens.
View attachment 3828425
you're going to need to work on the welding a bit more....that bead looks like swiss cheese.
 
This is what Warden used when they did the cut-n-turn. Pic taken from the magazine I used to learn how to do my first Turn. Pipe cutter. My pipe cutter never worked. It would just destroy the cutting wheels. See they never pulled the knucle either. No need.

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