Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

[kiwidog]

There are some 15600-41010 filters on E-bay, the guy wants $15.00 each for them.

Also Mazda Navajo has the same filter. Would be worth checking the Mazda dealer for the size and where they are made. B6Y214302 P1 ; B6Y2-14-302; B6Y2-14-302A; B6Y214302; B6Y214302A; FEY0-14-302; FEY014302; N231-23-802; N23123802; N3Y6-14-302; N3Y614302

Thanks jb

 

[Gusb]

I will make you a bushing drive for the inner seal that you can keep.The oem style seals are fine. The special seals are OK but not strictly necessary if the trunion bodies are set-up correctly. The stock set-up hasn't leaked for many years and miles that tells me it was set correctly from the factory.
You probably won't need wheel bearings but the Koyo's are pretty inexpensive and no big deal to change. You can order Koyo WB's from Kurt with your kit. You might want to order a 54mm socket from Kurt as well I would get the 3/8 drive one unless he only has 1/2 drive.They are about $21.00. I can bring mine if you like.
We are flying back then driving back to Alberta in May sometime.
As for the fish scale again not really necessary, you can get it very close by feel. The trunions just need a little preload so the housing doesn't move up or down along the king pin inclination.

The other way to go on filters is to use Denso which is a Toyota affiliate company. The filter number is 150-1004. I think there is a bit of over thinking in the whole filter game. If Fram was so bad there would be millions on engines lying on the side of the road dead from poor filtration.
If you scour E-bay I bet you could find some of the large Toyota filters for a competitive price.

See you soon.

Thanks jb

Cool - my own custom seal tool - can you autograph it ! Ordered the socket and complete kit (Koyo's) from Kurt today. Nice guy and always helpful. Thanks and drive safe.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Thanks for the feedback Eddy - know Kurt, not sure who Georg is...

@orangefj45. Google Valley Hybrids. He's in Stockton and usually has simple stuff like knuckle rebuild kits in stock.

Is this your poison?

Hell yes!

 

[Gusb]

knuckle kit from Kurt - FA7590KWB

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Game on, now get messy!

 

[Gusb]

Got going with tearing things down and getting grease everywhere. One thing I noticed on the passenger-side (the side with the bad leak) is a definite worn spot is the bearing action when the wheels hit the straight ahead area – things are smoother on the driver’s side. Makes me happy cause it looks like the knuckle job/new bearings may improve handling on the road.

This is something miker and kiwidog told me about early on with my original steering problems.

 

[1Fine40]

When you remove the trunnions and get a look at the bearing races, I think you will be amazed to see what kind of wear pattern you find! When I did this same job many years ago, I had pretty deep grooves in the race where each bearing roller was located...no wonder it liked going straight but fought me on the turns....
PS: keep track of the shims on the top and the bottom trunnion...odds are you can just put new ones in of the same thickness and come out pretty well centered at the end of the job.

Cheers!

 

[Gusb]

Lots of stuff to clean... everything seems in pretty good shape so far.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Those pics are not fair to the guys who are going to see them and think, "Hmm. It's not that greasy in there."

 

[antFJ]

haha!

is that the new races or the old ones?

 

[Gusb]

Those are still the old races... good point Eddy, I should have taken a few shots of the big grease/rag filled shopping bags (that the local Shell station is now the proud owner of). Plus my tools are getting all dirty...

 

[Vae Victus]

Love the trash can!

 

[antFJ]

looks like everything is in great shape... should last a long time after the rebuild

 

[Gusb]

Hard to photograph these and show the wear. Two on the right are the really leaky side, with the big flat spot in the action. Maybe not bad considering how old they are?

 

[1Fine40]

Hard to photograph these and show the wear. Two on the right are the really leaky side, with the big flat spot in the action. Maybe not bad considering how old they are?

View attachment 1035873

Oh yes! those races are definitely ready for the round file(trash bin). It's no wonder you were having some steering issues I hope you are going to install Marlin's inner seals in the knuckles. They are really the best out there. Have had mine for a long time and not a drip in sight!

Cheers!

 

[Gusb]

Special Marlin seals - I try not to obsess about these things too much these days - don't fix what's not broken, etc. I've always appreciated Marlin Crawler and ordered stuff for my old 80 pickup from them in the past. The M-EcoSeals sound great for like repairing a scratched/damaged, corrupted seat area or maybe heavy wheeling with big rubber? The stock seals I'm pulling out I'm pretty sure have been in place for 30+ years. I thought about ordering Toyota stock (seals) but everyone seems to agree the Japanese stuff from Kurt is good (I know Kurt sells Marlin's - forgot to ask him about using them when I put in the order). Anyone else have opinions on this (Fast Eddy likes them) - should I order Marlin's seals?

Also any brand-name opinions on grease - Moly Sta-Lube (in the black tube) and Sta-Lube wheel bearing grease OK?

 

[kiwidog]

Hi Gus,

The stock seals are fine. Like you said the stock ones have been in there for 30+ years. The front shafts only turn when you have the hubs locked. How often are you going to use wheel drive in the bay area?
We are in Coos Bay and should be in HMB late tomorrow.Great driving weather the whole way so far.
If you haven't put the inner seals in yet, you can use your bushing/seal driver on Wednesday.

Fast Eddy your Havana Bay made it safely across the border, we didn't even get accused of bootlegging cuba rum.

Thanks jb

 

[Fast Eddy]

Special Marlin seals (Fast Eddy likes them) - should I order Marlin's seals?

Just parroting what I have heard around here.

We are in Coos Bay and should be in HMB late tomorrow.Great driving weather the whole way so far.
If you haven't put the inner seals in yet, you can use your bushing/seal driver on Wednesday.

Fast Eddy your Havana Bay made it safely across the boarder, we didn't even get accused of bootlegging cuba rum.

So a meetup on Wednesday evening then? Maybe Gus could pick a place? Send me a PM.

 

[1Fine40]

For the curious mechanic, here is the reason the Marlin Eco-seals are so good. Simply put, they have a inner sealing lip that has tons more flex than the stock seals. This allows you to have your axles not quite perfectly centered in the bore and still have a good seal. Stock seals don't do that, you have to be spot-on. The other thing the Eco-seal does is provide a nice neoprene ring on the outer surface of the seal. Pop the seal in squarely with your seal driver, and the work is done! No silicon or FIPG to screw with on that outer lip, it is sealed. Last thing is the nice metal lip that prevents you from pounding the seal in crooked or too far, the lip aligns the seal perfectly to the bore...easy peasy!

That's what I like about them, but I am only a shade tree mechanic. Things that save me time and hassle are greatly appreciated, I pass this along simply as an endorsement to a great product. I have no affiliation with marlin...(wish I could change that!!) Of course others opinions may vary!

Cheers!

 

[Weber Sarge]

I put a set in last year when I rebuilt the front axle and did the cut/turn . They are top quality seals , no doubt and excellent design . If the rubber part is of any decent quality I can see them lasting the rest of the truck's life , which is probably longer than I'll be here ....
Sarge