Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

[1Fine40]

Been following your work and am truly impressed! I have to do much of the same stuff to my 9/77! I will throw out that I pressed in some oil impregnated brass bushings for the tire carrier, fit like a glove and seem to be really smooth..not sure if they will last a real long time, but they are sure easy to source and install!

Cheers!

 

[Fast Eddy]

[strike]The hood hinges are supposed to be connected with counter-sunk phillips-head screws.[/strike]

Edit: See JimC's post below.

 

[Gusb]

Been following your work and am truly impressed! I have to do much of the same stuff to my 9/77! I will throw out that I pressed in some oil impregnated brass bushings for the tire carrier, fit like a glove and seem to be really smooth..not sure if they will last a real long time, but they are sure easy to source and install!

Cheers!

I thought about that - I haven't measured carefully but looks like a .625"/.750" so it sure seems like something "standard" should work. I would think the brass would last longer if anything, though it might not offer the early on cushioning effect of the self-destructing Toyota nylon.

 

[Gusb]

The hood hinges are supposed to be connected with counter-sunk allen-head screws.

Not sure what you're referring to here Ed - I have yet to see a counter-sunk, Allen-head anything on this beast? Pretty sure these painted bolts are original right down to the 30+ years rubber seals.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Not sure what you're referring to here Ed - I have yet to see a counter-sunk, Allen-head anything on this beast? Pretty sure these painted bolts are original right down to the 30+ years rubber seals.

I meant Phillips head. Sorry. Edited.

 

[Gusb]

I meant Phillips head. Sorry. Edited.

I’ve got the original big counter-sunk, unpainted Phillips-heads on the windshield frame hinges. The "hood" hinge bolts have a 10mm head, painted and also seem original.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The hood hinges changed from cast iron to stamped steel in mid 78. The hood hinge fasteners changed from oval head to hex head about the same time. 79-later all have the hex heads, 77-earlier have oval head. 78 is a crapshoot.

 

[Fast Eddy]

78 is a crapshoot.

Thanks for clearing that up. I've got a '76 and Feb '78, both oval head screws. I haven't noticed the hex head attachment before.

 

[Gusb]

The hood hinges changed from cast iron to stamped steel in mid 78. The hood hinge fasteners changed from oval head to hex head about the same time. 79-later all have the hex heads, 77-earlier have oval head. 78 is a crapshoot.

Hinge mystery solved (Aug 78) - thanks Jim.

Off topic but - looking through an old book (Toyota Truck & Land Cruiser - Moses Ludel) the other day and came across this helpful hint . I think it may be where I got the Teflon tape on the carb fitting idea. Probably something I did on my old 80 pickup carb rebuild. I still think, as you said, it serves no practical purpose. Knock wood the carb is still humming along (3rd time a charm) though I’m thinking of changing out some of those old rubber gas lines at some point.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

Awesome work!! I've referenced this thread many, many times fro my rustbucket build. It's been invaluable.

One question I have (sorry if someone else has already asked:whoops, but how did you make the flange for the rocker panel supports seen in your pic here? Sorry I don't have any fancy software to make pics/diagrams like you have done to help the rest of us.

 

[Gusb]

One question I have ...

I made paper patterns of the original brackets. Laid them out and carefully cut to shape. Before the 90 degree flanges were bent (hammer/vise) I just jimmied up some really crude temporary die offsets using flat steel scraps and some machining hold-downs (think steel bars/bricks). With everything clamped down to a table and hammered on to help enforce/define the off-set. Finally checking the fit on the truck I banged on them a little more to fine-tune. I think there's a rough diagram somewhere back in the thread I put up for somebody.

I don't know much about sheet metal work but I'm sure it would be a lot easier with even a small, cheap hand brake ($200 Grizzly, etc.) and a few additional tools. I want to build another steel "welding" table down the road and may try to incorporate a "home-made" simple brake into one side of the table. And maybe a Lancaster shrinker/stretcher set to also mount on the same table.

Hope that helps.

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I made paper patterns of the original brackets. Laid them out and carefully cut to shape. Before the 90 degree flanges were bent (hammer/vise) I just jimmied up some really crude temporary die offsets using flat steel scraps and some machining hold-downs (think steel bars/bricks). With everything clamped down to a table and hammered on to help enforce/define the off-set. Finally checking the fit on the truck I banged on them a little more to fine-tune. I think there's a rough diagram somewhere back in the thread I put up for somebody.

I don't know much about sheet metal work but I'm sure it would be a lot easier with even a small, cheap hand brake ($200 Grizzly, etc.) and a few additional tools. I want to build another steel "welding" table down the road and may try to incorporate a "home-made" simple brake into one side of the table. And maybe a Lancaster shrinker/stretcher set to also mount on the same table.

Hope that helps.

Sounds like a plan. I'm working with about the same toolbox you are. I was going to make a custom press brake, but I'll have to wait until the FJ40 gets put back together. I know it doesn't make much sense considering I'm knee deep in this resto, but that's just it. Being knee deep keeps my wallet burried under the muck.

One last question.....how many supports are on the rockers? I only found what was left of one on the pass. side rear rocker. The rot monster took the rest.

 

[Gusb]

One last question.....how many supports are on the rockers? I only found what was left of one on the pass. side rear rocker. The rot monster took the rest.

Two in the rear have the bolts... two in the front don't. I think you can see most of them here:

http://graphictoolbox.com/?q=body/fj40-rocker-panel-brackets

Edit: Sorry - put a bad link up before.

 

[Chum09]

Not much time in the garage lately.

Two "big-bump" noise points getting fixed - new nylon bushing, etc. for hood and tire carrier. OME nylon bushing, hardware, etc. for tire carrier on order from Toyota. I used front door type bushings for hood hinges - tight fit but no more jumping around/noise on the hood.

Is there a trick to getting the pins out of the tire carrier mine seem extremely tight but they still rattle like hell

 

[77mustard40]

Is there a trick to getting the pins out of the tire carrier mine seem extremely tight but they still rattle like hell

I placed bushings on mine a couple years ago and had the same problem. I ended up running it around the corner to auto repair/body shop and we heated and separated using a hydraulic press.

 

[Gusb]

Is there a trick to getting the pins out of the tire carrier mine seem extremely tight but they still rattle like hell

I'm painting these so I wasn't worried about the paint. Penetrating oil and heat from a propane torch. Used a cheap puller on one (don't have a press) but messed up the big steel washer (ordered 2 anyway from Toyota). Then held the base of each hinge in a vise (resting the main carrier on the bench) carefully so has not to bend anything - and pounded the pins the rest of the out using an old 3/8 extension as a big drive pin punch.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I hit the welds on the back side with a grinder and separated it with a pickle fork. I had been putting penetrant on it for weeks and it had only penetrated about 1/4" through the rust. It was pretty solid.

I only separated it enough to pound out the big pins. It went back together easily, with some anti-sieze and it stays put now with no weld, but only friction. I didn't want to repaint it.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Off topic but - looking through an old book (Toyota Truck & Land Cruiser - Moses Ludel) the other day and came across this helpful hint . I think it may be where I got the Teflon tape on the carb fitting idea. Probably something I did on my old 80 pickup carb rebuild. I still think, as you said, it serves no practical purpose. Knock wood the carb is still humming along (3rd time a charm) though I’m thinking of changing out some of those old rubber gas lines at some point.

It's like the text goes to another picture. It mentions filter fitting, like maybe on a rochester (the carb inlet filter and fuel inlet fitting are the same piece). And teflon tape is for sealing taper pipe threads, which are nowhere on a 2F carb.

 

[Gusb]

It's like the text goes to another picture. It mentions filter fitting, like maybe on a rochester (the carb inlet filter and fuel inlet fitting are the same piece). And teflon tape is for sealing taper pipe threads, which are nowhere on a 2F carb.

I agree with you. The only thing I get from it, is that he thinks the threads (even on a straight 60 degree) are "lubricated" to some degree by the tape and in some instance that might keep them from friction-galling, etc.

This book has gotten some bad reviews in the past for not being detailed enough, too superficial, just pictures, etc. but I've always kind of liked it. And there aren't that many Toyota Land Cruiser truck books out there.

 

[Gusb]

I guess you could say Toyota had the important parts for the spare carrier . Still couldn't get a few things I wanted (red circles). I need to locate some good neoprene type material to make up parts like 51907B. Used some thin (too thin) gasket stuff for a temporary setup earlier.