bulletproofing the cooling system. radiator, fan clutch, cooling lines etc..

[fjlau]

So I recently blew the radiator in my 97 Landcruiser and am looking to take the time to do my best and "bulletproof" the cooling system as I've read its a bit of an issue on the 80. What are some solutions everyone else has found work best and what brand radiator has seen the best numbers and reliability? (other than the nearly unattainable Ron Davis ) seen a lot about the TYC1918 vs KOYO1918, all aluminum radiators and blue fan clutch and mods but can't come to a definitive answer.

 

[sunrk]

Genuine radiator/convector, genuine (not blue) fan clutch, good fan shroud, good quality hoses, new water pump and t-stat (with each t-belt change), fresh coolant at the same time as each oil change. At least that's what works with a diesel 80.

Alternatives to genuine radiator/convector is the Koyorad ones. Here in oz two good aftermarket aluminium ones are Adrad and PWR.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Best way to make it bullet proof?


Maintenance.



and check that things like your OEM thermostat, radiator cap, and clutch fan hub are all operating correctly.

 

[COYS]

I've read its a bit of an issue on the 80.

Pls read again. Those taking shortcuts make a non-issue an issue. Gl dude.

 

[Malleus]

@fjlau, I wholeheartedly vote for an all metal radiator (tank and tubes). The plastic tanks can't be repaired or cleaned properly and they're not significantly different in price.

Other than replacing a failed radiator, I'm unaware of cooling system problems on 80's, and I've owned more than a few. If you know of problems, I'd be interested to hear about them.

 

[mehbohdi]

Bought 1 Denso's leaked, received warranty Rad leaked, Bought Toyota from Toyota never another problem. Blue hub, stock fan, good hoses and clamps, Lesson learned. I think Toyota got it right the first time.

 

[florida95fzj]

The Toyota radiator worked really well for me.

Getting the system clean helped me. Rust is an insulator and can work against the cooling system.

 

[bhsdriller]

If the stock lasted 25 years that's pretty good to me

 

[fjlau]

the only real cooling issues I've heard of are that it runs a bit hot at times depending on what you are doing with it. I would just like to keep the temps bellow 200 as much as possible no matter the scenario. But from what I hear it doesn't really seem to be an issue as long as the truck is properly maintenanced. thanks for all the great info!!! does that csf radiator come with the transmission oil cooling lines? @Malleus

 

[Malleus]

the only real cooling issues I've heard of are that it runs a bit hot at times depending on what you are doing with it. I would just like to keep the temps bellow 200 as much as possible no matter the scenario. But from what I hear it doesn't really seem to be an issue as long as the truck is properly maintenanced. thanks for all the great info!!! does that csf radiator come with the transmission oil cooling lines? @Malleus

No, the radiator is just the heat exchanger, no fittings other than a plastic petcock, just like the OEM. Which is useless for anything other than spraying the entire front of the engine and left side frame with coolant when it's removed.

As to the coments above about the OEM lasting for 20 years so that's got to be great, I'd say that the prior year radiators were all metal and regadring the 80 series which received the plastic tank models, that decision was made based on economics, not performance. IIRC, the non-US models (Africa/Arabia) were fitted with metal radiators. The problem with the plastic tanks, in addition to lack of serviceability due to construction, is that the bypass nipple is easily broken and not easily repaired (I have one sitting on my shelf waiting for repair inspiration for this very reason). Metal tanks have neither of these problems. If you're driving back and forth to the mall, you'll likely never have to clean the radiator, if you regularly flush it, and the block/head, and use only deioniozed and distilled water. IMHO, that's a lot to ask for selecting a plastic tank over a metal one, for which there is no real cost purchase benefit.

If by "runs a bit hot at times, depending on what you're doing with it" you mean you can't run the engine at 2500 rpm while crawling at 1mph up a 30° slope, yes that happens and there's nothing you can do about it. The system wasn't designed for that use. It's not a military grade off road vehicle.

I have read complaints about cooling and transmission system performance by people driving over the Rockies, but I've never read a complete description of the trucks they used and the condition they were in at the time. I have a hard time believing the 80 series, when new, had those problems, so I suspect that age and lack of maintenance had a great deal of influence on those operations. @cruiserdan would have as much to say about that as anyone, I would think.

Given the use the 80 series was designed for, I don't think you'd have any problems in reasonable normal conditions )that is, not traversing the Continental Divide or Death Valley in the summer) keeping the cooling system temperature in the green.

 

[robnicko]

Genuine radiator/convector, genuine (not blue) fan clutch, good fan shroud, good quality hoses, new water pump and t-stat (with each t-belt change), fresh coolant at the same time as each oil change. At least that's what works with a diesel 80.

Alternatives to genuine radiator/convector is the Koyorad ones. Here in oz two good aftermarket aluminium ones are Adrad and PWR.

Why fresh coolant every oil change?? unless you change your oil every couple of years or have leaks?

red LLC is the key !

 

[LC4LIFE]

I have maintained mine regularly over the years. That has made it bulletproof, at least I am calling it that as I have never had a cooling problem.

 

[COYS]

@fjlau, I wholeheartedly vote for an all metal radiator (tank and tubes). The plastic tanks can't be repaired or cleaned properly and they're not significantly different in price.
View attachment 3220764
Other than replacing a failed radiator, I'm unaware of cooling system problems on 80's, and I've owned more than a few. If you know of problems, I'd be interested to hear about them.

CSF is sht

 

[Kwikvette]

@fjlau, I wholeheartedly vote for an all metal radiator (tank and tubes). The plastic tanks can't be repaired or cleaned properly and they're not significantly different in price.
View attachment 3220764
Other than replacing a failed radiator, I'm unaware of cooling system problems on 80's, and I've owned more than a few. If you know of problems, I'd be interested to hear about them.

That one looks good, maybe I should've gone that route.

I went with the Liland aluminum setup; keeps things nice and cool that's for sure.

 

[Dan Nielson]

So I recently blew the radiator in my 97 Landcruiser and am looking to take the time to do my best and "bulletproof" the cooling system as I've read its a bit of an issue on the 80. What are some solutions everyone else has found work best and what brand radiator has seen the best numbers and reliability? (other than the nearly unattainable Ron Davis ) seen a lot about the TYC1918 vs KOYO1918, all aluminum radiators and blue fan clutch and mods but can't come to a definitive answer.

I feel your pain, but if you go with an all metal radiator whats your plan for the transmission cooler located in the bottom of the OEM radiator.

this is what my '96 did right before x-mas

 

[mudgudgeon]

If by "runs a bit hot at times, depending on what you're doing with it" you mean you can't run the engine at 2500 rpm while crawling at 1mph up a 30° slope, yes that happens and there's nothing you can do about it. The system wasn't designed for that use. It's not a military grade off road vehicle.

I disagree with this. If you're having issues with this sort of use something is not right.

Plenty of wheeling in Aussie summer fits that description, and can be in 100⁰+ ambient temps. A properly working engine fan should take care of airflow, and cooling.

 

[sambrian2007]

Just replaced radiator this weekend after finding a leak in it. I bough OEM Rad from Landers Toyota in Little Rock for $335. I thought it was a pretty good deal. Something I don't see mentioned often when talking about the cooling system is the belly pan right above the steering stabilizer. I noticed mine was missing after watching a youtube video of the radiator replacement job. Apparently the belly pan is designed to help air flow to the radiator. I don't know how much it helps but I went ahead and picked one up and installed it.

 

[Malleus]

I feel your pain, but if you go with an all metal radiator whats your plan for the transmission cooler located in the bottom of the OEM radiator.

this is what my '96 did right before x-mas

View attachment 3222268

View attachment 3222269

The CSF radiator has a transmission cooler in the lower tank.

 

[Malleus]

I disagree with this. If you're having issues with this sort of use something is not right.

Plenty of wheeling in Aussie summer fits that description, and can be in 100⁰+ ambient temps. A properly working engine fan should take care of airflow, and cooling.

As the OP is in the US, and in North Carolina, he's unlikely to see the temperatures you see in your part of the world, unless he's in our desert southwest, which is where Death Valley is. I'm well aware that temperatures and condition vary around the world, but it's not like we can drive our trucks there, from here.

 

[Malleus]

CSF is sht

I received mine used so I had it disassembled, cleaned and resoldered and flow and leak tested, prior to installation. I can't speak for the factory new condition.

The jury's still out on mine. When it fails, I'll let you know.