bulletproofing the cooling system. radiator, fan clutch, cooling lines etc.. (1 Viewer)

[mudgudgeon]

As the OP is in the US, and in North Carolina, he's unlikely to see the temperatures you see in your part of the world, unless he's in our desert southwest, which is where Death Valley is. I'm well aware that temperatures and condition vary around the world, but it's not like we can drive our trucks there, from here.

So your saying the OP is even less like to see extreme ambient temps beyond what stock cooling system can handle?

 

[Malleus]

So your saying the OP is even less like to see extreme ambient temps beyond what stock cooling system can handle?

Let's not start a fight over this. You know as well as I that temperatures in Australia exceed those in all but a very small area of the US. If you want to redesign the cooling system, more power to you.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Let's not start a fight over this. You know as well as I that temperatures in Australia exceed those in all but a very small area of the US. If you want to redesign the cooling system, more power to you.

I think maybe you either wrote what you didn't mean, or didn't write what you meant? It you forgot what you wrote?

I'm saying stock OEM cooling system is good for the extreme conditions in pretty much any part of the world. Provided is still working to full effect. I don't think I suggested redesigning anything within even so much as a single word

 

[sunrk]

Why fresh coolant every oil change?? unless you change your oil every couple of years or have leaks?

red LLC is the key !

Because I do oil and filter changes at bare minimum every year (roughly every 5 to 10 k km's of driving), and replacing cooland and oil are cheap insurances for engine longevity.

I use Nulon red coolant concentrate, mixed 1:1 with water.

 

[ChaseTruck]

@fjlau, I wholeheartedly vote for an all metal radiator (tank and tubes). The plastic tanks can't be repaired or cleaned properly and they're not significantly different in price.

Just to make sure we're all on the same page re all-metal radiators...

 

[Malleus]

There seems to be a discrepancy on Rock Auto's website:

You obviously can't have both plastic and brass, so their ad copy is wrong somewhere.

Regardless, I used to image for example only, just to say that an all metal radiator was available.

Since there is, also obviously, so much passion on this site for plastic radiators, I'll leave this thread for others.

 

[Marco Lau]

There seems to be a discrepancy on Rock Auto's website:
View attachment 3223657

You obviously can't have both plastic and brass, so their ad copy is wrong somewhere.

Regardless, I used to image for example only, just to say that an all metal radiator was available.

Since there is, also obviously, so much passion on this site for plastic radiators, I'll leave this thread for others.

CSF is copper and brass unit. I unfortunately had a bad experience with CSF and will never recommend it to anybody on here. I might have gotten a bad unit. but not something i would mess around to experience. I recommend OEM unit if they are available, otherwise, 2 core aluminum like Liland or Ron Davis.

 

[Retro LC]

CSF is sht

Why do you say so?

 

[COYS]

Why do you say so?

Don’t take my word for it. Research for yourself.

 

[Retro LC]

Don’t take my word for it. Research for yourself.

Of course I could research, but the brevity of your comment that they are sh*t made me wonder if you had any first hand bad experience with them.

 

[COYS]

Of course I could research, but the brevity of your comment that they are sh*t made me wonder if you had any first hand bad experience with them.

I don’t have to get locked up to say county jail is to be avoided.

I went with OEM back when I was surveying my rad options. CSF unit is made in China. Toyota still supplies them new from Japan. On my other car, it’s also well known that OEM is superior to CSF and other makes.

Gl to you.

 

[lp2k]

Still have my OEM 3 row brass from Mr. T (156k miles) I did the whole flush which was nice since the heater core needed it. I dont remember the flush name but after running distilled water through the system like 6 times and draining it out, I added it with distilled water and drove for a hour. When it cooled off, it came out black-like sludge. I flushed it again to get the flush fluid n gunk out. Then I replaced all the firewall hoses and the water pump / t-stat. Filled with 60% distilled water and 40% toyota red taken into account the existing water in the lines subtract for coolant capacity. No problems since. Holds strong pressure and looks amazing.

 

[Retro LC]

I don’t have to get locked up to say county jail is to be avoided.

I went with OEM back when I was surveying my rad options. CSF unit is made in China. Toyota still supplies them new from Japan. On my other car, it’s also well known that OEM is superior to CSF and other makes.

Gl to you.

I'd take an OEM radiator in a heartbeat, but 3FE FJ80 radiators are NLA from Mr T last time I checked--hence the search for next best available option.

 

[COYS]

I'd take an OEM radiator in a heartbeat, but 3FE FJ80 radiators are NLA from Mr T last time I checked--hence the search for next best available option.

View attachment 3268937

Ron Davis short for Rhonda

 

[Uluabob]

OK dumb question here , so based on dicussion is there an OEM all metal radiator option that can be purchased currently for a '96? I need a new radiator and I am leaning toward OEM (part # 16400-66081) thanks y'all!

 

[BreezyF]

So I recently blew the radiator in my 97 Landcruiser and am looking to take the time to do my best and "bulletproof" the cooling system as I've read its a bit of an issue on the 80. What are some solutions everyone else has found work best and what brand radiator has seen the best numbers and reliability? (other than the nearly unattainable Ron Davis ) seen a lot about the TYC1918 vs KOYO1918, all aluminum radiators and blue fan clutch and mods but can't come to a definitive answer.

Sorry didn’t dive into the whole post but with my 91 fj80 I went with a csf 2709 rad and new thermostat complete with new water pump I’m just at the end of my journey but i did use factory hoses and clamps. I added an aftermarket “inline” digital water temp gauge as well. I believe this will complete my coolant project but have yet to find out. Regardless of my wordiness I’m sure this doesn’t help at all but may help with the csf brand and model number 2709 (fit and finish worked well)

 

[flintknapper]

The CSF radiator has a transmission cooler in the lower tank.

The 2517 does. I have that radiator in mine and it cools just fine. There have been some that have experienced less than stellar performance from this radiator over the years and others (like me) that have had no problems.

I went all metal after my OEM split out a the top plastic cap.