Building Bulletproof Axles (1 Viewer)

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Just curious, as I'm mulling over some axle issues myself (not on the '80, though...): What's the rationale for a 9"?

Drop out third.

Edited: I'm assuming the Tru Hi 9 rationale was stated more for front, since it's high pinion, can use a Toyota output flange, and has larger R&P than the 8", but all an assumption.
 
How about one of these. It's a shaved 14-bolt.
The guy who drives can truly break anything, but I haven't heard a peep about the front axle (yet... :hillbilly:).

DSC_5154.jpg
 
Yep True Hi9 was recommended for the front, for all the reasons you listed. The rear is fine, being 9.5" there really is no reason paying all that money for the True Hi9 rear, only benefit being the high pinion in my opinion.
 
Keeping the 9.5" rear isn't an option, due to gear ratios on the 9"HP.

Spent considerable time planning a rear swap with 9" for FJC and should allow for general strength increase, and get rid of e locker.

Sell OE front and rear (maybe this one, maybe another) as a "set".
 
They should come in like a 4.86:1 which would work with the cruisers 4.88:1

They do, but was thinking 5.38s and running 35 spline, be it HP on both front and rear, or just front....with Toyota flanges, or course.

Based on reads, sounds like the rear HP would handle the power of 1 or 2uz, get the pinion out of the way, plus maybe easier to flatten links?
 
Haha I was trying to save you money, but yeah if you want to drop the cash a rear HP would raise the driveshaft and pinion, I don't think it would do much for the links since you will still want the same vertical separation, but it would have cool factor ;)
 
Haha I was trying to save you money

Said in Texas laden, darkest crack dealers drawl.... Hahaha.

Will wait to see if deal falls through, but 9" HP front and LP rear wouldn't suck. If LT's prescription were the cure, there'd be little Toy remaining, so thinking I'll be looking for another 80 to chop up.
 
Stick to a low pinion 9" in the rear, there is a reason why all the desert racers have them, it is a much stronger set up than a HI9.

Raising the links in the rear will screw with your geometry, leave them alone.
 
Stick to a low pinion 9" in the rear, there is a reason why all the desert racers have them, it is a much stronger set up than a HI9..

Noted.

Raising the links in the rear will screw with your geometry, leave them alone.

Going to 3 link it......unless you want to explain why that's not a good idea.......hahahaha.

Don't get your panties in a wad. :flipoff2:

I'm listening, so noted, too.

Why would you replace a rear 9.5" diff with a 9" diff?

Partially because I'm stupid.

I've always been under the impression that gear ratios had to be identical, front and rear, and there's no 5.29 option for a Hi-9, no 5.38 option for the 9.5".

LT has stated previously when I was entertaining the idea of swapping the rear 8" FJC axle that the 9" was the better option, since my goal was all Toyota on it, too, and was talking about an LC 9.5" rear.

Now, that may be due to the fact that it was the only bolt in, driveway project option, other than a D60, that was available, as I'm certain that my request was for bolt in, only.

Will correct for accuracy, once I find the exchange, if it varies any from above.

Last reason. Cause it's all gotta match. Haha.

True Hi-9 in the front, and one of these in the rear and you should be set.

http://www.torqaxle.com/

Have seen those on PBB before. Looks like mechanical art, if you ask me.

Curious, is Miller affiliated with in any way?

When I saw pics of their shop, it literally looked barren. At $5-6k each, you'd think they'd have had to have come from a similar background or production company with other offerings.

just send the truck here, we can do it. We just ordered a Hi9 for a SAS swap on a 100, so we can just up the order to two!

Well, if you're offering.....could buy a local to you 100 and save the money of a V8 swap, too!

I've had intentions of contacting, but have lacked a clear, concise goal, so to speak. Have always enjoyed the process of "builds", but always wind up with an expensive piece of chit, so it's a realistic consideration, to say the least.

Following the previous SA'd 100, I liked the idea of the 105 housing and keeping an OE approach. Thought it was done how I would want to do it.

Why the departure?

What's going to happen on the rear?

Staring down a third swap on an local kid's FJC and I don't think I want a semi-float in any way, shape, or form.
 
I'll eat these words, but trailers are for forklifts and equipment in my world.

That said, they'll allow almost anything to run down the road in OK. No inspections of any kind.

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image-404999195.jpg
 
I'll eat these words, but trailers are for forklifts and equipment in my world.

That said, they'll allow almost anything to run down the road in OK. No inspections of any kind.

Thats what I love about Florida.... One of the only things though.
 
Delancy wouldn't know what to do with a buggy, he would probably buy a service manual for each drivetrain component just so he can order factory parts for it.
 
9.5 e-locker

If you are going to wheel this hard with 37's, pull the e-locker rear axle now, sell it and put a non e-locker axle in with an ARB. You will thank me later.

Hi Slee
I am looking for 2 of these amazing diffs. Do you have any of these book ends laying around?
Also its my birthday today! PLeeeeeze :)
I will be using cable so the motor doesn't have to be in working condition.
Thanks in advance!
 

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