Building Bulletproof Axles (1 Viewer)

[scottryana]

Lots of options from weak to strong....

1.) Stock
2.) Additional pins
3.) Upgraded ARP studs
4.) Upgraded ARP studs and pins
5.) Drilling and tapping the hub for hardened allen head bolts
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/394267-full-floater-hub-stud-upgrade-write-up.html

 

[Delancy]

Whichever is the closest to Robbie's recommendation. I can't decipher.

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

80 series cv axles

1991-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80, FZJ80, HZJ80, HDJ80, HDJ81
Also fits Venezuelan made Autana & Burbuja 1991-2008

Notes:
- 1991-1994 Models require the later stronger TOY43421-60040 1995-1997 type drive flanges
- OK for AWD use, as our Bearings and Inner race spec’d for more wear resistance
- 30/BIG24 Splined. Fully compatible with factory or aftermarket carriers, lockers, & hubs
- High strength Chromoly Material featuring State of the art machining, heat-treating and polishing processes for uniformity and ultimate strength
- Fits both ABS and Non-ABS vehicles

http://sleeoffroad.com/products/products_drivetrain_driveshaft.htm

 

[Delancy]

Does Just Differentials have plans to offer caster corrected 80 series housings?

 

[newtomelx]

X2 It would be nice if someone on this continent offered a cut n turn housing solution!

 

[Delancy]

X2 It would be nice if someone on this continent offered a cut n turn housing solution!

It's coming, but a new housing. Be cheaper than any other solution, all things considered, plus would swap all to a stronger housing.

Check Just Differentials build thread for the assumed prototype.

Edited: All an assumption, on my part.

 

[sleeoffroad]

X2 It would be nice if someone on this continent offered a cut n turn housing solution!

Why, it doesn't work with the 80 since you run the tie-rod into the control arms in any case. So for the little adjustment you would get for the caster, you don't need to cut and turn since there are easier solutions.

 

[Douglas S]

Why, it doesn't work with the 80 since you run the tie-rod into the control arms in any case. So for the little adjustment you would get for the caster, you don't need to cut and turn since there are easier solutions.

It works if you use the Hellfire Knuckes and high steer arms, or move to the smaller birfields and use the knuckle assembly and high steer for a 60 or equivalent.

 

[Delancy]

Why, it doesn't work with the 80 since you run the tie-rod into the control arms in any case. So for the little adjustment you would get for the caster, you don't need to cut and turn since there are easier solutions.

Assuming high steer would be the intention, but a complete assumption.

 

[Delancy]

Assumptions, to some degree, formulated from:

Big thanks to RuffStuff Specialties for getting the axle housing built for us under our tight deadline.

We really didn't want to use the 8" front on this project, so we cut the knuckle balls off to use on the new 9.5" Ruff stuff housing. The housing will except our off the shelf chromoly LC 80 axle kit. We will be using our new 32 spline chromoly Birfield kit and a 100 series style 3rd member and gears

We have made a jig, and can offer these complete turnkey, as of now will also require a core 80 frontend for the knuckle balls etc, we can provide.

Parts list and price (today):

NPHTLC95HOS CUSTOM HD TOYOTA LC 9.5" AXLE HOUSING, NO BRACKETS OR ENDS, MUST SPECIFY LH, RH, OR CENTER DIFF, 3.5" TUBES $800

JTOTLC80-KNUCKLES FJ80 HI-STEER KIT WITH KNUCKLES, ARMS & BUNGS $900

AXTBIRF-FJ80KIT-32 NITRO HIGH STRENGTH CHROMOLY BIRFIELD AND AXLE KIT WITH CUSTOM 32 SPLINE INNERS $1099

TLC100-488-NG 98+ STYLE LANDCRUISER 4.88 RING & PINION, 29 SPLINE $449

YOKT35100-MULTI 29 SPLINE FLANGE $55

ARBRD152 98+ LC 9.5" REAR LOCKER, 32 SPLINE $996

MK TLC-B 91+ LANDCRUISER 9.5 MASTER KIT W/ KOYO $192

SK CSTLC-90+ LC 9.5 SOLID PRELOAD SPACER KIT

KNCLKIT-FJ80 LC 80 KNUCKLE REBUILD KIT $140

AK TOY-FRONT X2 FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS & SEALS $40 EA

 

[sleeoffroad]

It works if you use the Hellfire Knuckes and high steer arms, or move to the smaller birfields and use the knuckle assembly and high steer for a 60 or equivalent.

I can see the knuckles and hi steer, just would never go to a 60 birfield on a 80. That would be a lot of work to go backwards. That means you need balls from a 60 axle to put the smaller knuckles on the axle.

If I go that far, I would rather do what Carl is doing with a new fabricated housing.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Assumptions, to some degree, formulated from:

Yes, we did the same thing when we built the Blueberry. I am just not convinced running the 9.5" gear on the coast side is strong enough. We blew that up the first day on the Ultimate Adventure. I would run the True-Hi9 diff with a fabricated housing.

 

[scottryana]

Yep, bullet proof front axle with mostly 80 parts:

True-Hi9 in a custom housing with 80 birfs, and high steer, but if you are going to go that far just use dana 60 knuckles and RCV dana 60 joints.

Slippery slope.

 

[Delancy]

I know and understand your position on rear e locker, Christo, but what about the front?

Why not transfer everything over to a Ruff Stuff housing, corrected for caster (if already building the housing) lower shock mount and convert to eye?

 

[scottryana]

The small reverse rotation ring gear of the 80 front axle becomes the fuse. Especially if you are reversing. That is why Christo went to a 9.5" LC third but ran it on the coast side and like he said it broke on day 1 of UA. That is why Tru-Hi9 is recommended it is one of the only "designed from the ground up" high pinion large ring gear thirds.

 

[Delancy]

but if you are going to go that far

Hahahaha.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Why not transfer everything over to a Ruff Stuff housing, corrected for caster (if already building the housing) lower shock mount and convert to eye?

Simply not worth the cost and the effort for what you gain.

 

[Delancy]

Simply not worth the cost and the effort for what you gain.

I'm not being argumentative, Christo, since we all know the level of expertise I have (edited: if it wasn't evident, in humor), but think there's a sliding scale on value perception.

Personally, if I could've replaced the housing for double the amount I spent on the cobble-a-thon double, double cardan, I'd have considered it worth the cost and effort, if it were the end all to the great caster debate.

Plus, I wouldn't be faced with trying to cobble hydro through the cobbled arms.

Bandaid, upon bandaid, upon bandaid, in my case.

 

[scottryana]

Well now are you trying to build a bullet proof axle or fix the problem with caster when using an 80 axle. Two different problems that could be solved with one housing with a new third and new knuckles lol

Spidertrax housing
Tru-Hi9 high pinion third
Spidertrax 60 knuckles
RCV 60 CV joints

cut your mounts off your existing axles, set your caster and get to welding. lol

 

[Delancy]

Two different problems that could be solved with onel

I wouldn't know what to do if two problems could be solved with one. I'm too used to one solution causing two problems.

I hear you on the suggested.

Run a bird cage buggy like front axle and it'd be bulletproof to 60 mph wheel spins to dead stops. Then all it'd need is SBC with 700 and Atlas.

Slippery slope.

cut your mounts off your existing axles, set your caster and get to welding. lol

Have you seen my welding/ fab skills?










Hahahahahahaha.

Don't think I'll be cuttin' nothin' nor weldin' nothin' that's critical.

In continuance of the OT, more band aids arrived






And did get the ARP hub and wheel studs in