Box Rocket
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How difficult has the rebuild been besides the shift lever? I have had a spare case sitting on the garage floor for a couple years waiting for a rebuild with lower gears. I need to get after it soon.
Builds Building Bubbles the Turbo Super Tourer (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Dirty Koala
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Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #262
It’s all been pretty straight forward. The two areas that are a bit of a challenge to figure out the pulling/pressing setup were:
1) The shift levers, mostly because they were corroded together.
2) Front output shaft. Coming up with a puller setup to get the gear off of the front output shaft was a bit of a head scratcher. It’s a deep tight pull so your typical 2 or 3 jaw pullers are not going to fit in there. Some people press the shaft out to remove the gear, but that puts way more strain on the aluminum housing than I wanted to risk. You could fab up some narrow pulling jaws for the job.
I pulled out my Miller pullers that I have for rebuilding NV4500 transmissions and found one set of collars fit around the output gear just right. Once I figured that out I was able to separate them easily enough and then press the shaft out of the housing without the strain of pulling a gear.
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How many miles on that case? Eventually I’ll be digging back in mine to do the gears also. Only part timed it so far. I actually got better mileage before putting in the high range gear in the splitcase so I want to see how the HF2A does first. But I also did my power mods at the same time so that had something to do with the mileage drop as well.
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #264
I have no clue how many miles are on this case I am rebuilding, it was a spare case I picked up several years ago. The bearings were all still good, but I changed them out since I had the parts and figured why not.
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #265
I finally had a couple spare hours today to finish putting this case back together. I still need to drop the three new sensors in and bolt the shift motor back on…but before I do, I need to figure out if the motor is currently in the open or locked position.
This was a junkyard case, and I forgot to check the position of the shift rail when I first pulled the motor off during disassembly. I suspect it was in the open position, but want to be sure before I bolt the case back up in the truck.
I think I might toss a battery in the cumminsless 80 and plug the shift motor in to checkout the position and operation…hopefully it works.
The plug on the shift motor was also crushed…just like the 3 sensors, I am assuming a careless worker at a junk yard dropped the case. I replaced the connector with a new one without much drama.
This was a junkyard case, and I forgot to check the position of the shift rail when I first pulled the motor off during disassembly. I suspect it was in the open position, but want to be sure before I bolt the case back up in the truck.
I think I might toss a battery in the cumminsless 80 and plug the shift motor in to checkout the position and operation…hopefully it works.
The plug on the shift motor was also crushed…just like the 3 sensors, I am assuming a careless worker at a junk yard dropped the case. I replaced the connector with a new one without much drama.
Tuite
SILVER Star
I was in the same boat when I swapped my case and used a 12v milwaukee battery with some jumper wires to bench test the actuator.
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #267
Do you recall which pins you hooked up to test?
Tuite
SILVER Star
It was the two heavier gauge wires going to the motor and you can reverse polarity to drive the motor the opposite rotation. I think you could also use a 9v battery since that is what people use to test the actuators at the F&R diffs.
The lighter gauge green, yellow, and black are for the limit switch and dash light.
The lighter gauge green, yellow, and black are for the limit switch and dash light.
theres only 2 pins. I cant remember which ones but both pins do the moving for the motor in either direction.
i.e. Pin 1 gets + and Pin 2 get - and it moves it say -> and then reverse polarity and it moves it the other direction <-.
Only apply power for a split second. tap - tap - tap till it stops. Do not overpower it. otherwise the gear gets stuck and you'll need to tear it apart and free the gear and then reassemble and try again. This method applies to all Toy elocker motors. Wether it's front, rear or center in a FJ80 or say Taco, 4R or FJC.
I recommend using a Power Probe! If you don't have one. Then buy one at amazon or where ever. It's the best electrical diag tool you'll ever buy.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #270
There is actually 5 pins/wires. Going into the motor I haven’t dug into the EWD yet, but I assume the 2 larger guage are the power supply lines.
Duh theres 5 pins. LOL. Only 2 pins make the motor move!
swankstar
SILVER Star
You still use all three sensors? I’m only using the one for the 4wd indicator. Neutral not needed and lockers can be used in high so no need for the other.
Oh wait I’m confusing this one with the Cummins. Your still stock still on this one.
Oh wait I’m confusing this one with the Cummins. Your still stock still on this one.
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #274
Yeah This is the one in the turbo LX. That said, I am still using all three sensors in the Cummins case too.
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #275
Bench testing my unknown condition CDL actuator with a fresh 9v battery was a bit disheartening. It sounded like it was full of gravel and barely could spin.
I pulled it all apart and found the 25 year old grease was pretty dried up and the whole assembly was full of gear oil. I am convinced that someone dropped/stored this case upside down for a good while. So far I have had to replace all three sensors that had been snapped, and the shift lever that was bent down which are all conducive with this thing being dropped upside down, but now finding the actuator full of oil, this case much have been sitting upside down for some time for oil to get past that seal.
Today I got my hands on a tiny tub of body grease and got busy cleaning and applying fresh grease to the drive and driven gears. A quick test with the 9V battery and she spins fast and smooth.
I pulled it all apart and found the 25 year old grease was pretty dried up and the whole assembly was full of gear oil. I am convinced that someone dropped/stored this case upside down for a good while. So far I have had to replace all three sensors that had been snapped, and the shift lever that was bent down which are all conducive with this thing being dropped upside down, but now finding the actuator full of oil, this case much have been sitting upside down for some time for oil to get past that seal.
Today I got my hands on a tiny tub of body grease and got busy cleaning and applying fresh grease to the drive and driven gears. A quick test with the 9V battery and she spins fast and smooth.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Nicely done!
Dirty Koala
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- Thread starter
- #278
Yeah, and I am surprised it didn’t come in dime bags. $50 for 50 grams is bananas.
Wtf seriously $50 for that smal jar? Dang they must have smoked all the good stuff and replaced it with grease and resold it to you.
I figured maybe $5 to $10 for that. But $50 is just highway robbery. Must be $50 for the whole 5 gallon pail that they divide up for resale.
Ill stick with white lithium grease from the autostore. Lol
FMC80
SILVER Star
Wait, you’re being serious? $50 for that? Holy hell.
