Build Building Bubbles the Turbo Super Tourer

[Dirty Koala]

Brake line trail repair repair n full swing...pretty happy with this solution.

Snapped off at the crimp when the bypass adjuster made contact. I had my compression set way too soft and am not running extended bumps....yet.

Evaluating options

Soldered up spare banjo

Completed plug

Ready to roll again

 

[Dirty Koala]

The passenger door lock on the LX has been a total PIA to get the key out of lately...a clear sign that the tumblers are worn out. New LX locks are unavailable, but Toyota locks are still available...just not as a matching set.

I have a complete set of matching locks from Delta (they rebuild new locks so they match the ignition cylinder) for my Cummins 80, and they feel so nice and smooth to use. I wasn’t sure if the Toyota style would work on an LX since the key and locks are an internal/inverse style.

@Delta VS sent me another set to try out in the LX, So I got to work one evening this week.

Delta Vehicle Systems - Toyota OEM Lock Cylinder SET

Full lockset is no longer available, get the second best thing right here!

www.deltavs.com

I am happy to confirm that the Toyota locks for the front doors and ignition swap directly into an LX and work perfectly. The swap was super easy, the most involved part was pulling the door panels off to get access. The second most involved part was figuring out how to break into the LX after I locked the new keys inside the truck ;(

I am going to send my LX locks up to Delta to see if it’s possible to rebuild/re-key them. If that tests out successful, then I’ll send up my LX rear hatch lock and glovebox locks to be rebuilt.

 

[IoN6]

The passenger door lock on the LX has been a total PIA to get the key out of lately...a clear sign that the tumblers are worn out. New LX locks are unavailable, but Toyota locks are still available...just not as a matching set.

I have a complete set of matching locks from Delta (they rebuild new locks so they match the ignition cylinder) for my Cummins 80, and they feel so nice and smooth to use. I wasn’t sure if the Toyota style would work on an LX since the key and locks are an internal/inverse style.

@Delta VS sent me another set to try out in the LX, So I got to work one evening this week.

Delta Vehicle Systems - Toyota OEM Lock Cylinder SET

Full lockset is no longer available, get the second best thing right here!

www.deltavs.com

I am happy to confirm that the Toyota locks for the front doors and ignition swap directly into an LX and work perfectly. The swap was super easy, the most involved part was pulling the door panels off to get access. The second most involved part was figuring out how to break into the LX after I locked the new keys inside the truck ;(

I am going to send my LX locks up to Delta to see if it’s possible to rebuild/re-key them. If that tests out successful, then I’ll send up my LX rear hatch lock and glovebox locks to be rebuilt.

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Non-US models have the internal cut keys, and at least when I ordered mine were still available (obviously). The one thing I did not get was the glove box lock as part of the kit. If you have your glove box lock (with internal cut key) I would buy it off you in hopes I could match it to the set I swapped in.

Here is a link to the thread where I mentioned this: Non-US Key/Cylinder Swap - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/non-us-key-cylinder-swap.1053105/

 

[haulin auss]

The delta vs lock set was one of the best things I've done to my truck, brings a smile to my face every time I start it up

 

[Dirty Koala]

The delta vs lock set was one of the best things I've done to my truck, brings a smile to my face every time I start it up

It’s pretty darn satisfying....even just the feel of the new oem key feels good in the hand.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I need to get this done as well. Since I took out the alarm with the unlock function I have to use the key to get in and the drivers door is the only one that will turn. Plus I think my key is a copy of a copy at best.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I need to get this done as well. Since I took out the alarm with the unlock function I have to use the key to get in and the drivers door is the only one that will turn. Plus I think my key is a copy of a copy at best.

Just do it Cim, it’s very pleasing and far easier to swap out than I was expecting.

 

[haulin auss]

Just do it Cim, it’s very pleasing and far easier to swap out than I was expecting.

So true, I already had the door panels off, but it only took me 10 min to replace all four locks and the ignition.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Just do it Cim, it’s very pleasing and far easier to swap out than I was expectin

Just do it Cim, it’s very pleasing and far easier to swap out than I was expecting.

Good stuff. I might go this route as my rear hatch key has never worked and when i picked my 80 from the original owner about a year and a half ago he didn't even know there was a keyhole behind the Toyota emblem in the hatch so it's never been used.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Good stuff. I might go this route as my rear hatch key has never worked and when i picked my 80 from the original owner about a year and a half ago he didn't even know there was a keyhole behind the Toyota emblem in the hatch so it's never been used.

Do you have a Landcruiser or LX450?

If Landcruiser, then you can send Dave your rear hatch lock and glove box lock to rebuild and key match along with the new locks for the front doors and ignition.

If you have an LX, the front doors and ignition can be replaced with the Landcruiser variant. Still need to determine if the LX versions can be rebuilt.

 

[Dirty Koala]

In case anyone was wondering, you can most definitely install a Slee hitch into a @Delta VS bumper. The process to do so is pretty simple following the Slee instructions since Dave designed the Delta bumper with the intent of allowing folks to do just this. I used a sharpie to mark out a box around the 4 factory bolt holes in the rear cross member and then used a zip wheel and saw-zall to cut a rectangle out of the bumper shell and rear cross member. Apply some primer and black paint to the cut edges and then bolt it all together. The result is a nice and clean bumper, now with a super bomber hitch. Also works well with the @NLXTACY Wits' end OBA tank mount...tons of clearance.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

In case anyone was wondering, you can most definitely install a Slee hitch into a @Delta VS bumper. The process to do so is pretty simple following the Slee instructions since Dave designed the Delta bumper with the intent of allowing folks to do just this. I used a sharpie to mark out a box around the 4 factory bolt holes in the rear cross member and then used a zip wheel and saw-zall to cut a rectangle out of the bumper shell and rear cross member. Apply some primer and black paint to the cut edges and then bolt it all together. The result is a nice and clean bumper, now with a super bomber hitch. Also works well with the @NLXTACY Wits' end OBA tank mount...tons of clearance.

Thank you so much for posting this! I've been measuring and getting ready to pull the trigger now I know I can just do it thank you!

 

[Dirty Koala]

Thank you so much for posting this! I've been measuring and getting ready to pull the trigger now I know I can just do it thank you!

No worries! I have a Slee bumper on my other 80, so was able to measure the Slee hitch and the Delta bumper before ordering up the hitch. At the moment Slee offers 2 versions of their hitch, the ‘legacy’ which is what I used, and their new version that works with their new bumper. The new hitch is narrower than the legacy since they changed up the safety chain hole orientation. I went with the legacy style to prove it would fit. The new version is smaller, so will also fit just fine.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

No worries! I have a Slee bumper on my other 80, so was able to measure the Slee hitch and the Delta bumper before ordering up the hitch. At the moment Slee offers 2 versions of their hitch, the ‘legacy’ which is what I used, and their new version that works with their new bumper. The new hitch is narrower than the legacy since they changed up the safety chain hole orientation. I went with the legacy style to prove it would fit. The new version is smaller, so will also fit just fine.

I ordered up the standard four bolts then realized for clearance and my bicycle rack maybe not the best choice with it poking out the bottom of the bumper.

My Arb air compressor is just fine but I got a craving for a York and a Wits air tank.

I'm stalling on the York because I may have found an m90 TRD supercharger......... With that said maybe I just go for the air tank and plumb it up to the ARB I'm thinking out loud now on your post.....

Thanks again for throwing this up

 

[Dirty Koala]

I ordered up the standard four bolts then realized for clearance and my bicycle rack maybe not the best choice with it poking out the bottom of the bumper.

My Arb air compressor is just fine but I got a craving for a York and a Wits air tank.

I'm stalling on the York because I may have found an m90 TRD supercharger......... With that said maybe I just go for the air tank and plumb it up to the ARB I'm thinking out loud now on your post.....

Thanks again for throwing this up

I love my York setup..puts out a ton of air. The arb double puts out a lot also. The tank is well worth it regardless of which pump you use...go for it.

 

[spyduh]

Looks good. I would have just bought a hitch receiver 12 or 18" and then welded directly onto the bumper. Welded two .25 square tubes to the hitch and mounting plates to attach to the frame. Also would be stronger to weld a tube to the side gusset tubes to triangulate the whole thing together, I think the OEM frame holes are too small personally. Would be good to drill those out and welded bigger nuts into the frame. Would have been beefier and probably cheaper.

but that's a good mod regardless. not sure why they Delta didn't design the bumper with a proper tow hitch anyway.

 

[Delta VS]

not sure why they Delta didn't design the bumper with a proper tow hitch anyway.

this has been discussed at length in our bumper thread. It’s a cost thing.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Looks good. I would have just bought a hitch receiver 12 or 18" and then welded directly onto the bumper. Welded two .25 square tubes to the hitch and mounting plates to attach to the frame. Also would be stronger to weld a tube to the side gusset tubes to triangulate the whole thing together, I think the OEM frame holes are too small personally. Would be good to drill those out and welded bigger nuts into the frame. Would have been beefier and probably cheaper.

but that's a good mod regardless. not sure why they Delta didn't design the bumper with a proper tow hitch anyway.

The Delta bumper was designed so that people could do just this and add a hitch if they want without adding any liability to the company, which with how law suit happy the general public has become was an inteliigent move.

As soon as you start welding to the bumper, you are going to need to strip the powder coat off, and get it recoated, that makes it a much more expensive and labor intensive approach to adding a hitch. Also, if you welded to .25 square tubes to the hitch, and the hitch is also welded to the bumper in your design, how on earth are you going to get the bumper on or off...you wont be able to.

I have been running this same hitch on my Slee bumper in the Cummins 80 for about 7 years and have pulled some heavy loads up steep trails. The heavyiest was about 9k lbs. I have also performed a lot of recovery tugs using that hitch...it's bomber. I would not want to try and improve on it at all. For $145 I got a bolt on / bolt off hitch, that didn't require removeing the bumper to install, no re-powdercoating and a proven track record of performance.

 

[Dirty Koala]

This week in between meetings I have been chipping away at my spare transfer case rebuild. I have setup the three gear clusters with 3.1 low range from @orangefj45 and 10% Underdrive high range gears from @cruiseroutfit. I figured since it was all going to be apart I might as well go all in and change out the bearings and seals so snagged a rebuild kit from Kurt too. It’s amazing how all the bearings have been in great shape. I decided to change the two input shaft bearings, the front and rear output shaft bearings and needle bearings on the output cluster. For seals, I am changing the input, front and rear output and speed sensor.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Today I continued the case cleaning process...such a PIA.

I then decided I wanted to change out the shift lever seal. This proved to be the most difficult step of the whole rebuild. There are 3 parts to this plus the seal. The outer lever and inner lever are held together with a threaded and notched cross pin...and in my case also rust. They were seized together mighty good.

I ended getting the pin out with my press and then separating the inner and outer levers with a big bearing splitter / 2 jaw pulled combo.

I’ll be replacing all those parts with new once they arrive next week.