Builds building a landcruiser for overland expedition (6 Viewers)

Should we paint Nulla’s camper cab blue?

  • Yes

    Votes: 5 38.5%
  • No

    Votes: 8 61.5%

  • Total voters
    13
  • Poll closed .

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pre turbo thermocouple instal

i have stated a thread on diesel tech to instal a pre turbo thermocouple on my 12ht here is the link https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...2730-pre-turbo-thermocouple-12-ht-instal.html
i am using an issopro thermocouple and gage from Diesel Manor..... thanks :bounce::bounce2:
port back.webp
port.webp
 
update

i made some good progress today in putting my engine back together: rocker arm, lifters and push rod, begin the installation of a pre turbo thermocouple, manifold and the turbo. i think i can re start the engine tomm and adjust valves. hope that the tapping goes away.

pictures below

next i will finalize the design of the intercooler.
:bounce::bounce2:
manifold.webp
Turbo.webp
assembled.webp
 
Diamond axel/Aussie Locker

ordered my Aussie Locker today and my custom made axel from Diamond Axel should arrive in two to three weeks. here is the thread i have started in preparation for the installation, we would appreciated your input on this https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/326210-what-correct-angle-pinion-gear-transfer-case.html

thanks.

also, my rear axel assembly complete with the manually operated locker will be up for sale. i will be posting that on the classified section.
:bounce::bounce2:
 
bolt on intercooler for 12ht engine

i am having my intercooler made by turbo performance Turbo Performance - For All Your Turbo Related Needs on my 12ht engine and i have ask the owner, Bob to make a couple of extra, in case some of you may be interested in getting one.

i have search the ih8mud and the internet and i have not found a bolt on intercooler for a 12ht engine. so here is one. i have no idea how much they will sell, i can find out if there is an interest..... let me know, i have also posted this on diesel tech.

specs are as follows: the core of the intercooler is 3.5" x 19" x 11", the overall dimension is 3.5"x24"x11", the estimated CFM is 1000.

below is the pictures, it is not yet done but you will get an idea on how it mounts. when it is done it will bolt on your 12th engine..... thanks:bounce::bounce2:
overview.webp
mounting rt.webp
mounting left.webp
 
here is the first draft of the air scoop, it is 24 inches wide in the front, 21 inches wide in the rear and 4 inches tall, my hood is fiber glass i will also make the air scoop with fiber glass..... what do you think? see picture.:beer:

i think the intercooler will be 21 inches long x 12 inches tall x 3 inches thick. my current plan is to install it at an angle over the engine facing the air scoop with a fan. i am thinking of a manually operated switch to operate the fan. basically turn it on at low speed and when the temperature is hot or when needed. i will post mock up picture soon as i get my engine put together ..... thanks

this is just the first draft, i am very open to change!
:bounce::bounce2:

I'm not convinced a forward facing scoop on the rear half of the hood will be effective on a 40. There is such a high pressure zone at the base of the windsheild it actually pushes objects forward off your hood as you pick up speed. Try it, place something (eg a small branch off a tree) onto the center of your hood and pick up some speed. Just my opinion but I really think cowl induction style scoop would work better :meh:.
 
explain more; what is a cowl induction style air scoop? do you mean moving the scoop forward or do you mean putting a screen on the cowling on the side of the fender connecting to the hood?

thanks:bang:

I'm not convinced a forward facing scoop on the rear half of the hood will be effective on a 40. There is such a high pressure zone at the base of the windsheild it actually pushes objects forward off your hood as you pick up speed. Try it, place something (eg a small branch off a tree) onto the center of your hood and pick up some speed. Just my opinion but I really think cowl induction style scoop would work better :meh:.
 
Pretty much just turn the scoop around facing the cowl like they had on some vintage muscle cars.
 
do you mean great idea to face the air scoop opening toward the windshield?

i will conduct a test using string in my cruiser myself.

by the way that thread was very helpful.

thanks

I was gonna post the exact same idea with the strings taped to the hood as they do in that thread, in my modest opinion a great idea!:)
 
No I can't take credit for that, I meant the tell tales. I have seen them used on sail boats and gliders. I did not know that air flowed like that across a hood, very informative!
 
Total noob here, so ignore me if this isn't helpful.

There was another build thread I just read that raised the same question. https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...1hz-install-into-1978-fj40-8.html#post4200069

BTW, love the build. Someday, when there's more money/time/space...

I was gonna post the exact same idea with the strings taped to the hood as they do in that thread, in my modest opinion a great idea!:)

Very helpful Miko :beer:.
I never considered using tell tales like in that thread but it's a great idea. I used to park under a big cedar tree. As I'd drive down the road it was interesting to watch how the debris would clear itself off the hood. Bits would pick up speed as they were blown forward away from the windsheild then just in front of the hooks they'd get picked up and blow back to the windsheild base. I found it entertaining anyways :D.
 
aussie lockers installed

spoke to Diamond Axel today, my axel housing should ship next week. meanwhile i have installed the Aussie Locker on the differential. it was easy took me about 45 min. pictures below. :bounce::bounce2:
diss asem.webp
installed.webp
 
reinforcing my chassis

my plan was to reinforces the chassis on the inside. i am now thinking of placing the 3/16" steel reinforcement on the outside in the same exact location. as you can see by the picture the inside on my chassis is already boxed. this is one of the reason i am thinking of putting the reinforcement on the outside. the other is that i will not have to put a hole on the steel reinforcement, lastly i will not have to move brake line bracket etc. what do you think about this, what are the positive and the negatives.:bang:

i am now moving to the next phase of the project which is to strengthen the chassis prior to the installation of my wider axel from Diamond Axel. here is my thread about this on the 40-55 series tech: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/316085-strengthening-chassis-pros-con.html

see picture below, i will be boxing the whole chassis from the transfer case back with a 3//16 or a 1/4 inches .... thanks
chassi.webp
Pattern.webp
 
monster oil catch can

here is the monster oil catch can that i build. 10 inches x 5 inches. the fittings input and output are 3/4 inch to avoid build up in the crankcase. i also placed a buffle between the two fitting to minimize oil coming in from being such back out by the output fitting. in addition i placed a thick wire brillo inside, i know it is over build:bounce::bounce2:
oil catch can 1.webp
oil catch can 2.webp
 
boost controller and engine compartment

just got done installing the manual turbo boost controller and the intercooler, i really like this intercooler, during test drive the difference on the EGT was noticeable. i have not test drove it since i installed the boost control today. my plan is to increase the boost to 14 PSI. just want to show you the overview of the engine compartment. i think the last thing i need to do on the engine compartment is a power steering fluid cooler and a second diesel water separator, i got a setrab oil cooler on ebay and i am waiting for it to arrive.... enjoy:bounce::bounce2:
boost controller.webp
engine compartment.webp
 
air bags for suspension

i am still waiting for my axel from Diamond Axel to arrive, i am hoping they arrive this week so i can get them installed before the holiday.

today i am going ahead and purchase the firestone air bags. my question is this. how will the air bag work when one wheel is extended and the other is all the way up? or when both wheels are extended to the maximum?

i know that on the shocks to get the correct length you have to measure the maximum extension of the axel then add a couple of inches. will i have to get airbags that will extend to the maximum plus a couple of inches?

i have also been checking out the currie sway bars, but i will see how it ride with the air bags before installing the sway bars. i will also keep my brand new bilstein shocks for now.

thank:steer:

I would use an airbag kit that uses Firestone airbags, or any kit of the same quality. I would talk around to the shops that install airbag`s on Dodge, Chevy, and Ford, 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.
Most of these trucks haul 15-25,000 lbs. trailers, plus the airbags work great without hauling a trailer also.
Just make sure you get one that you can adjust the airbags for different stiffness, and ride quality, most of them do.

And of corse whatever airbag kit you buy, it will not be built for your cruiser, you will have to retrofit it to your rig. It will help your swaying some.

The other thing I would use, and probably the most important thing to stop the swaying, is an after market sway bar kit like this one Currie Enterprises 4x4 Rear Ends Antirock these work great.
Get the universal kit, a lot of different options in these kits, I`ve seen a lot of these on rock buggy`s to daily drivers.

Then you would have a nice riding rig that wouldn`t sway, and have ajustable shocks, and ajustable air ride from the airbags. Scott
 
the way trucks have air bags set up is (basically) have both bags on an axle connected to the same input, so when one side goes up the air from that bag (that is being compressed) goes into the bag that is being stretched. so you would have you air line coming from whatever valve you are using to adjust the height and then T it off to each bag.
as for both wheels dropping at the same time i wouldn't worry about it. there shouldn't be any situation where the whole axle is dropping at once quickly enough to do any damage to the airbags.

what type of bags are you getting?

bloody nice build by the way :)
 
if you T the bags one to the other, you'll create a situation that is the exact opposite of "good"

upon rounding a corner, the outside bag will compress as the body shifts outward.... if the 2 bags are T'd, then the inner bag will extend, which will basically push the truck over onto it's side.

Not only will that scratch the paint, and possibly break a light or two, it could also dent the front bumper when you are stopped suddenly by a mountain, tree, pole, or oncoming traffic. None of which will help your overall progress between A and B.

Don't connect the bags to each other, it's a bad idea.
 
Firestone ride rite, just picked them up today. i will post picture when i install.
what type of bags are you getting?
bloody nice build by the way :)

Ok, i will install a strap that will prevent the axel from extending too far down.
Don't connect the bags to each other, it's a bad idea.

thanks:cheers:
 

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