Builds building a landcruiser for overland expedition (4 Viewers)

[gilghana]

The Nullacruiser is really coming on nicely - rubber mat looks really good.

Is that your Mum? She looks a bit doubtful about your tank

 

[rideglobally]

The Nullacruiser is really coming on nicely - rubber mat looks really good.

Is that your Mum? She looks a bit doubtful about your tank

mother in law, she want to know when to take the test drive, she is douthfull about sitting on that tank.

 

[Creeker]

if it was me i would first tak weld a sheet metal on the rusted area. i have started doing some minor body work on by cruiser, i went to the metal shop (Bobco) in los angeles. i asked what kind of sheet metal body shop use? they said "hot rolled sheet metal" cause is is soft and it will form. so i got some from their scrap bin for 5 dollars. i think tak weld would be best but if you don't have a welding machine the other option would be to cover a larger area and use sheet metal screw. i am just learning myself and new at this but that is what i would do.

Thx. I guess I need to learn a new skill. Your build is looking great, btw!

Creeker,

I agree with Rideglobally, but I would say the only way to ensure that rust does not spread under your deadener is to Rhino Line it after you have treated/cut out the rust completely. You will always get some moisture on the floor, even if your roof does not leak (condensation, water crossings, wet feet, etc), and a sound deadener will simply keep the water against the metal without allowing it to evaporate. If you adhere the deadener to the Rhino Line, then I would say you would have almost no worry about rust AND you would get the benefit of the sound deadener.

Cheers,

Josh

Thx Josh. This sounds like a good plan. Would POR-15 be preferable to the Rhinoliner since it's getting covered up w/deadener and matts? Or is there an advantage to using the Rhino?

 

[notyourmomslx450]

great build! Just read through it. what, if anything, did you use to hold down the rubber mat?

 

[rideglobally]

rubber mat

great build! Just read through it. what, if anything, did you use to hold down the rubber mat?

i am holding it down with stainless steel moldings that i am fabricating, i did not glue the rubber on to the floor, if that is what you are asking. i took a heat gun with a blower and heated the rubber mat where it needs to form to the floor, the great thing about this rubber mat is that it will form (some) to the floor.

i will work on it today and post some pictures of the molding and hopefully i can get it done...... thanks

 

[rideglobally]

rubber mat, dual battery switch,manual lockers

here are some pictures... enjoy

 

[Bogo]

Would POR-15 be preferable to the Rhinoliner since it's getting covered up w/deadener and matts? Or is there an advantage to using the Rhino?

In areas that will be covered in sound deadener I'd only use the POR-15.

 

[rideglobally]

air in the fuel line or engine starving for fuel

i also posted on the diesel engine section;

i was on my way to south dakota for another shake down ride, but had to return home cause the engine keep shutting down. i bleed it, it would run for a while and then shut down again. i had a leak on the fuel filter so i change the filter thinking that air maybe getting into the system through this leak, but the situation has not change.

i took out the fuel and vapor separator, can this be the cause of this? i drove it for some time with no problem without the fuel and vapor separator. i also installed a second fuel tank with a manual valve switching from one tank to the other. the return line is only connected to the original tank. no fuel return line on the second tank that i just installed.

thanks!!!

 

[Tapage]

if there is any pinhole present in your line, filter, water separator etc .. you will have air in the line .. and the 2H it-s extremely sensitive to the air in the lines ..

 

[troopie]

Just read this now.

Where the fuel line goes into the feed pump, there is a the banjo bolt were the fuel line is slipped on. Inside that banjo bolt there is a tiny strainer screwed inside. When you take the banjo out, you'll see what i mean. Unscrew the strainer and look for dirt. I had the same problem once and it took me forever to find the problem. A buddy had the same thing happening about two weeks ago.

I hope this solves your problem.

Later,
Mark

i also posted on the diesel engine section;

i was on my way to south dakota for another shake down ride, but had to return home cause the engine keep shutting down. i bleed it, it would run for a while and then shut down again. i had a leak on the fuel filter so i change the filter thinking that air maybe getting into the system through this leak, but the situation has not change.

i took out the fuel and vapor separator, can this be the cause of this? i drove it for some time with no problem without the fuel and vapor separator. i also installed a second fuel tank with a manual valve switching from one tank to the other. the return line is only connected to the original tank. no fuel return line on the second tank that i just installed.

thanks!!!

 

[73fj40lc]

Everything looks good and coming along. Only one observation that I saw was if you have to get to your tranny or tranfer you have alot to take apart to get to them. Normal 40's are a pain to take heater, seats, fuel tank, and tranny cover out to get to them and you have added quite alot more. I hope everything works great for you.

here are some pictures... enjoy

 

[rideglobally]

thanks all

thanks all, we are just back form our trip. i changed the fuel primer and that solve that air on the fuel line. tomm i will post some pictures. thanks again

 

[rideglobally]

up date after a 3000 mile ride

We are back from our 3000 mile ride, just want to share some updated pictures of the build. Overall a good ride except for three minor break down;
1. Day of our departure, air on the fuel line, which was fixed by changing the fuel primer,
2. In Nevada one of the lifter started making noise, we took it to a diesel mechanic. He took off the valve cover put some lucas oil on it and the noise went away. He suggested that on the next oil change I put 100 % lucas oil on it…. I wander what you all think about that.
3. The third breakdown was in the middle of the Mojave desert. The engine will not accelerate but would idle fine, the water temp was good and the oil pressure was also good. I shot down the engine for about 5 to 10 minute, started it back up and made it all the way home with no problem at all. I wander if there is a sensor on the engine that will automatically do this to prevent the engine for over heating. I was told that a 2H engine had this feature.

The 60 gallon fuel tank was great, we drove 10 to 12 hours days without stopping except for 5 to 10 minute brief breaks (not for fuel). The fuel consumption was 17.4 miles to a gallon. We only used the 60 gallon tank because I have not figure out how to connect the return lines. Here is what was suggested to me on that; place a “T” fitting on the fuel feeder line just before the fuel injector pump and connect the return line to that. Has any of you done this? my engine is a 12ht.

Enjoy the pictures;

1. picture of the nulla, we re did the pop up in two ways, we made it much lighter and two it now open from the front. our future plan is to remove the rooftop tent

2. we took out the catalytic converter and that big muffler re placed it with the aero turbine muffler

3. the seats installed, they are probably the most electronically sophisticated thing on the Nulla, we just could not find seats that are mechanical, leather and reasonably priced, anyway on the 3000 mile ride we enjoyed them. also on same picture you can see the dual battery switch and the rubber mat that was shaped to the floor.

 

[rideglobally]

more pictures

1. that is not final back seat we covered the 60 gallon fuel tank with a rug, the future will be a bench seat
2. air condition, it worked all the way, wife loved it. these are not final gauge location we consider them on the draft phase and check out the cup holders
3. the driver side

 

[rideglobally]

more pictures

1. yes the nulla now has a car stereo, plays ipod, dvd, cd and later a rear camera will be installed that will be connected on this car stereo
2. replace the sliding window in the rear with a fixed tinted windows, the sliding windows made noise.

 

[rideglobally]

widening the track - next stage of the build

the next stage of our build is to widen the track, we have started a tread on 40 series tech section for that here is the link if you are interested in seeing it https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/294559-making-axels-longer.html#post4621804

 

[rideglobally]

Update on widening of the track

we have found the 80 series donor axel, the donor axel will be cut from the spindle then machine and welded to an axel housing that Diamond Axel will be building/fabricating. i will post the measurements later it will be wider than an 80 series axel. my rear "camper" is 80 inches wide. our goal is to have a tire track wide of 84 inches. this will be 4 inches wider than the "camper". picture of the donor axel below. the issue of what to do with the front axel will be decided later after some suspension work and the test drive. thanks for all your input.

 

[Scottb]

Nice build, I wish I had your four door body to put on my 95' Dodge cummins diesel chassis.
Diamond axles rock, you should have them build you a front one also.

I would use air bags, take out one leaf spring, or two from the pack, and then use airbags for a 1 ton truck.
Way smoother ride. The bags will be able to handle anything you can put them through.

All the semi trucks I`ve been driving for the past 20 years, have airbags on them. I work for the largest freight company in the US, and all of our trucks have airbags.
Our trucks might blow one airbag out at 500,000 miles or so, thats nothing.

When I get my new rear springs, I will take one leaf out and run airbags on my 95' Dodge cummins diesel. The airbags let you ajust your suspension for different levels of weight you are carrying.

I would have used a dual wheel setup for your type of driving. A lot of poeple don`t get it, you have two more wheels on the ground, a lot more traction, way more stability. I would use 4 narrow tires in the rear, excellent for dirt, mud, and sandy roads.
Two more tires on the rear, equals more floatation, pushing you through the sand, mud, or snow.

Keep up the good work.
Scott

 

[Bogo]

From what I understand duals are worse in snow and sand. Better to have a single narrow larger diameter tire. The other problem with duals is airing them down. At the standard spacing there is no room for sidewall flex when aired down. You have to remember he doesn't have the weight of a semi to compact the snow or sand with. Compacting that snow and sand is the way to get traction. Keeping singles also means tire/wheel combos are universal and can go on any wheel.

 

[jb BJ73]

Did you get your original steering wheel leather bound or is that aftermarket?

what halfshafts are you using with the housing you're getting made? would be fairly easy to accomodate airbags on it if you're getting it custom made