Build Build Thread: Jim’s ‘55

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To be clear, I have been stopping great all along. It just developed this “pump it once, and THEN stop” situation this week. And I’m not arguing that it isn’t a big deal. I’m just not ready to throw everything out and start over just yet. I think replacing the one cylinder will resolve that issue with the pump first/then brakes. And I got new shoes for the fronts, since the one that delaminated was up front. I’ll look at the ones I’m pulling off and save any good ones/ swap out with any in the back that show signs of delamination. If needed, I’ll order a new set for the back, but these shoes still have a decent amount of meat on the bone. I’d rather minimize the project to the necessary, and stay on target to work on the Tranny as then next big project.
 
At a minimum I would want to replace components in pairs to help ensure that I get even braking side to side. Just my 2 cents on a Saturday morning.

Edit: You can also rebuild those cylinders instead of replacing them. I have never tried it but it doesn't seem to be too difficult judging by what others have posted on the process.
 
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Fix what you have and you'll probably have enough left of a $100 bill to buy some tacos.
Overhaul kit for that cylinder is probably 12 bucks and 3 years ago I paid about $50 for a set of 4 shoes.

Look at the lines closely while you're there.
50 year old rubber needs to be replaced.
The place I get my brake parts will rebuild any brake hose for a nominal fee. The parts resellers online who cater to enthusiast vehicles will get whatever they think they can for some China sourced line but my guys use American made hose and im not sure on the ends but a finished line is about $30.
Check em out.
 
trainbufftony said:
Id adjust them all, just to be safe. Then bleed em and note weather any have air bubbles.
Air bubbles can indicate a bad cylinder but it's consistent air bubbles time after time.
If you get consistent air bubbles rebuild that cylinder (or allow em)
Also check the master cylinder pushrod height.
I cant remember what thexspec is but proper clearance is important.
I had to wing it by feel but they make a tool for that.
Honestly id start with a shoe adjustment all around.
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When I first read the question I was thinking that the pushrod length was off.
But it is always good practice to adjust the shoes...
 
trainbufftony said:
Wouldn't hurt to pull drums and have a look at all 4 of em because the friction can unbond from the steel shoe and then no amount of adjustment will fix anything...
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That would not be good at all. Always good to put your eye on things...
 
trainbufftony said:
Take the drums off, have a look around and familiarize yourself with what's there.
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This ^^^
I can spend all kinds of time thinking about what might be causing something, and then more time reading about possible causes online.
No substitute for just digging in.
As my Stats professor use to tell us, "Nothing to it, but to do it!" <Facts
 
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