Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR (1 Viewer)

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Complete 2021 tundra drivetrain in a 60.

Jason
TT
I figured it was something like that... one of the few drivetrains there are no options for passenger side front diff drop unless you go divorced (which I thought about for a while). I even thought about clocking the transfer case, but that seemed to be the toughest and most expensive option.

If you have wiring or plumbing questions, feel free to reach out. There are quite a few 'gotchas' with this setup.

I imagine you're relocating the oil filter housing? Are you deleting the immobilizer?
 
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I figured it was something like that... one of the few drivetrains there are no options for passenger side front diff drop unless you go divorced (which I thought about for a while). I even thought about clocking the transfer case, but that seemed to be the toughest and most expensive option.

If you have wiring or plumbing questions, feel free to reach out. There are quite a few 'gotchas' with this setup.

I imagine you're relocating the oil filter housing? Are you deleting the immobilizer?

I'm sending the harness and ECM for a couple wipe and build with the basics only. So immobilizer delete yes.
From my measurements I may get to keep the oil filter housing in the same location with the 60 frame and 80 coil conversion if mine up front.
We are looking at a place in Vegas and will give you a shout in a few weeks when we are headed to NV.

Jason
TT
 
Once the engine is set I'll get measurements and see if the Whipple 2.9L will fit under the hood.

Jason
TT

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How are the manual Tcase cables treating you. I have all the parts to keep it all electric , but I like simplicity

Jason
TT
The cables are great.

Unless you're planning on controlling the shift actuators manually, I wouldn't plan on using the 4WD ECU to do it. The 4WD ECU talks to the ECU via can bus, and it won't shift the transfer case without knowing the actual speed of the vehicle... Which then you need the skid control ECU involved, with wheel speed sensors on each wheel, as well as yaw sensors in the steering wheel and brake pedal stroke sensor.

It seems that with Toyotas, when something goes wrong with the ABS, TRAC, VSC, they all fail at the same time and the transfer case won't shift with those lights on.
 
The cables are great.

Unless you're planning on controlling the shift actuators manually, I wouldn't plan on using the 4WD ECU to do it. The 4WD ECU talks to the ECU via can bus, and it won't shift the transfer case without knowing the actual speed of the vehicle... Which then you need the skid control ECU involved, with wheel speed sensors on each wheel, as well as yaw sensors in the steering wheel and brake pedal stroke sensor.

I was thinking that could be deleted out with the wipe and making the tcase a standalone harness.
 
I was thinking that could be deleted out with the wipe and making the tcase a standalone harness.
That's above my pay grade 😎 I don't know how much flexibility they have with programming these.

I had thought one time about getting a 2wd ECU instead of a 4wd since that would be one less system missing, but it doesn't seem to mind.

I wanted a completely stock ECU and tune because if there was a problem, I didn't want to have to try and diagnose something that somebody else did that I was unfamiliar with.
 
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I'm curious- If there was an input shaft and plate to mate up an HF1A/2A/V would you guys go that route? I'm working through some other applications like Allison 1000 and thinking what else we could make them for once we're all set up.
 
I'm curious- If there was an input shaft and plate to mate up an HF1A/2A/V would you guys go that route? I'm working through some other applications like Allison 1000 and thinking what else we could make them for once we're all set up.
Good question... I was really open to all possibilities to make this setup work. The first axle I flipped took a few days of figuring, grinding, welding, etc. Of course, the 2nd one took less than a day to do the same thing because I knew what needed to be done.

Knowing what I know now, its a toss up between using an adaptor plate and different transfer case to keep the passenger side diff drop or flipping another axle. But had you asked me before I had attempted two of these, no question, I would go adaptor plate. Bolting stuff together is much easier than fabricating from scratch.
 
Used the skid steer today to measure for bump stops. Looks like I'll need 3" longer in the back and 2" longer in the front. Hoping @Hitit66 has some in stock! I do think its pretty cool seeing how much a stock 80 series can flex. They are impressive vehicles.

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Then a nice little sunset cruise with Callie -

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Trying to knock more stuff out every day. The last couple days was all focused on getting the manual bump shift to work. For some reason, it wasn't letting me shift it manually. I used a Snap On scanner to get into the transmission which told me exactly what it was trying to do.

This shows each gear and when I cycle the shifter through P R N D -

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This screen shows the activation of the manual sequential shift mode and the pressing up the shift up / down buttons -

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The issue ended up being the neutral safety switch. It needed a diode as the start circuit was backfeeding 12v into it, so it thought it was in P or N at the same time as R or D. Once the diode was put in, the code went away and manual shifting worked!

Wife drove it for the first time tonight... I think she liked it!

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Short drive away video -


That sounds really good, nice exhaust. That has got to be fun to drive. What does it weigh? Tundra short bed regular cab is around 5200.
 
That sounds really good, nice exhaust. That has got to be fun to drive. What does it weigh? Tundra short bed regular cab is around 5200.
Thank you... that video had the exhaust cutout open. When its closed, its quieter than my Tundra with the factory TRD exhaust.

I don't know the weight yet. When I get the hard top on, I'll weigh it. I'm very curious though... Also curious how much I can tow with it. I would think I can tow whatever the 80 series can tow (5,000lbs), plus however much less it weighs than an 80. I would really like to pull our 19' camper with it.
 
Thank you... that video had the exhaust cutout open. When its closed, its quieter than my Tundra with the factory TRD exhaust.

I don't know the weight yet. When I get the hard top on, I'll weigh it. I'm very curious though... Also curious how much I can tow with it. I would think I can tow whatever the 80 series can tow (5,000lbs), plus however much less it weighs than an 80. I would really like to pull our 19' camper with it.
I’m sure that you know this though it’s worth calling out that reducing the weight from a tow rig does not necessarily mean that they can tow more weight. You want a certain amount of mass from the tow rig to maintain a stable foundation to tow from. Lighter rigs can have a tendency to jackknife because the trailer can more easily push the tow rig around, especially on a slick surface.

Be careful. I’m no expert though I did spend a decade in heavy transportation and recovery. With that I am hoping to pull a 17’ camper behind my extended 40 when I am done.
 
Thanks to @Cruiser Cult, I can now stop having mild panic attacks every time I park and see a small puddle of fresh liquid dripping from the front of the Cruiser. I took advantage of their amazing coolant overflow tank, and it looks right at home in the engine bay. I couldn't be more pleased with it!

I think I'm going to pull the radiator and paint it matte black... I looks a bit '80s full size truckish' in there being polished aluminum. Maybe I can just scuff it up to get rid of the shine.

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Thanks to @Cruiser Cult, I can now stop having mild panic attacks every time I park and see a small puddle of fresh liquid dripping from the front of the Cruiser. I took advantage of their amazing coolant overflow tank, and it looks right at home in the engine bay. I couldn't be more pleased with it!

I think I'm going to pull the radiator and paint it matte black... I looks a bit '80s full size truckish' in there being polished aluminum. Maybe I can just scuff it up to get rid of the shine.

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Looks great! We are honored to have a part in that glorious engine bay. :cheers: A great collaboration product with @Racer65 :steer:
 
Thanks to @Cruiser Cult, I can now stop having mild panic attacks every time I park and see a small puddle of fresh liquid dripping from the front of the Cruiser. I took advantage of their amazing coolant overflow tank, and it looks right at home in the engine bay. I couldn't be more pleased with it!

I think I'm going to pull the radiator and paint it matte black... I looks a bit '80s full size truckish' in there being polished aluminum. Maybe I can just scuff it up to get rid of the shine.

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This looks amazing! I love how you have packaged everything together. You are giving me some good ideas.
 
That sounds really good, nice exhaust. That has got to be fun to drive. What does it weigh? Tundra short bed regular cab is around 5200.
Since you've asked, I've been super curious. I decided to throw it on the scales -

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And the results -

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Right at 4,440 lbs. This does not include the hard top or doors, so I weight those separately -

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Another 160lbs, so all together I'm at 4,600. This includes a full tank of fuel and full size spare in the bed. I'm pretty happy with that!

An 80 series weighs 4,834 and a Sequoia is 6,030.

The power to weight ratio of the 5.7 in the Sequoia is 1hp/15.8 lbs
The power to weight ratio in my 45 is 1hp/12.0 lbs, or about 24% more. The larger tires and higher unsprung weight definitely don't help though.

Took it out to my favorite trail over the weekend and it did great! No more rubbing with the longer bump stops, and all systems worked well.

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