Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR

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Thanks! That is where I got my CH-Eng one, didn't know they make custom ones, will reach back out!
I don't know if they still do. It was a few years ago. They never advertised the service, but I had reached out to them to ask. Good luck with it!
 
On my last build, I used an 80 series OEM 3 spoke steering wheel. I wanted something a little more fitting for this one, so I took @EmanC up and snatched his last available billet aluminum 40 series improvised look alike. It looked nice in pictures, but actually getting it here, it's amazing. Plus I'm in good company now with @Tank5

Next to the 80 wheel I was going to use -

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Installed -

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Looks great in your build.
 
Since you brought up the steering, I took a closer look at your linkage... that looks like it took a minute to iron out...

How did the rest of the routing go?

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Along the lines of trying to hide the tech stuff in the build, I've been scratching my head trying to figure out how I can bump shift the transmission without having another button or switch on the dash. I decided to put it on the end of my shifter stalk.

Looking at the new switch compared to factory end -

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Milling a channel for the wires to hide -



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Milling the 3 on the tree linkage to hide the wires as well -

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The new knob I had my friend 3D print with the switch in it -

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Running the wires -

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New OEM bushing going in from @Cruiser Cult

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Installed, painted, done -

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Also had him print up a key holder for the transponder key since the key needs to be present but I'm not using the Sequoia key switch and tumbler -

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cant the ecu be flashed and the immobilizer (transponder) be deleted?

Thank you for the question.

I see @LexusV8 Engines flashes them. I haven't seen any reviews or talked to anyone that's used them. I do look forward to hearing/seeing some, and I'd like to support them one day.

I also plan on using the key for additional safety when I leave the car for more than a few minutes.

Maybe it would be ideal for a race truck or something, but it's only 4 wires to hook up, it's small/lightweight, and I think it's quite useful.

Since you brought up the steering, I took a closer look at your linkage... that looks like it took a minute to iron out...

How did the rest of the routing go?

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The rest was easy... Those are the only joints. Everything else is straight. 👍
 
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Got the seats covered with some guidance from @EWheeler

After all the frames were sand blasted, I painted them semi gloss black -

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Adding some Poly Fill to reduce the bounce -

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Covering the springs to protect the foam -

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2" of foam on top, with a 1/2" foam skirt -

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Seat heater pad installed -

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Bottoms done -

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Installed -

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Light wiring also complete! All lights, brake lights, headlights, blinkers work -

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cant the ecu be flashed and the immobilizer (transponder) be deleted?

Having the immo is a perk. If you have the system and the associated key, I've no idea why one would delete it.
 
As I get closer to driving this thing, the front axle has been on my mind. Ever since I swapped the orientation, I never felt 100% confident in the measurements and angles. I decided to give it another go.

I purchases another stock 80 series axle to make a jig and take measurements from -

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I turned 4 spacers to fit in the trunnion bearing races so I could keep the axle in a fixed position as I cut off all of the brackets -

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Next I made fixtures for the spring buckets and radius arm mounts before cutting them off -

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Now I'm left with this jig to put my other axle housing into -

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Tacking the brackets into place -

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Next, to make sure the differential was properly positioned, I turned some spacers for the axle housing and diff housing out of some raw aluminum -

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Putting the spacers in the diff using the alignment bar -

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Spacer in the end of the axle housing -

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3 of the holes in the new flange tapped so I could attach it to the diff and tack into place with the alignment bar inserted all the way through -

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Diff in place and alignment bar in -

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After the flange is tacked into place, diff is removed to tap the remaining holes and fully weld it in -

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I cut out a bunch of filler pieces for the spring buckets and radius arm mounts on the plasma table and welded them in -

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Axle is painted and done! I feel much better about it. All stock measurements and alignments -

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Nice work! You should have some piece of mind after revisiting the housing set up and building your jig to put it all together.
 
So, were you off? By how much? Asking for a friend…
 
You do stuff like I do! I'll come to realize I made a mistake or misjudged something, usually a minor detail nobody would even care about, but I just can't let it be that way. I'll redo whatever it is even if it means going to some absurd length to ensure it's good.

Love this build! Keep it up!
 
So, were you off? By how much? Asking for a friend...

Indeed I was, but not by much. The bar slid through one side of the housing and the diff, and was misaligned with the other end of the axle by about 1/8". I could get it to go through by applying some pressure to it, but I had already made up my mind I wanted to redo it.

As far as the brackets, I didn't measure to see if they were off... I just assume they were.
 
I get a small adrenaline rush everything time I get a notice that @UZJ40 has posted to this thread. It is seriously entertaining, educational, and inspiring to watch your build. Riley, thanks for taking the time to document and share with us.
 

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