I'm definitely copying your airbox idea here! Love it!!
I'm interested as well! Can you shoot me a PM on costs?
Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter UZJ40
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- #263
Yes, how much?
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- #264
Got the radiator mounted up today. It was pretty tricky because the factory 80 steering box is right in the way of where a vertical mount would go.
I put two studs in the frame on the passenger side
Then I made a plate out of 1/4" steel that bolts to the top of the steering box
Positioning the radiator
Everything burned in
Plenty of room between fan and bib. Looks like I'll have a front mounted AC condenser.
I put two studs in the frame on the passenger side
Then I made a plate out of 1/4" steel that bolts to the top of the steering box
Positioning the radiator
Everything burned in
Plenty of room between fan and bib. Looks like I'll have a front mounted AC condenser.
Nice work on the steering - that looks tight without any room to spare! In fact, everything is looking tight and you seem to be making quick work of it.
The airbox looks great. I was thinking of putting my battery where you have your airbox, but I might have to copy you because that looks like an ideal location for pulling cold air. I wonder if the vents would freeze up with ice and snow in winter storm conditions. I suppose if that did start to happen, the easy solution would be to temporarily remove the top from the air box.
The airbox looks great. I was thinking of putting my battery where you have your airbox, but I might have to copy you because that looks like an ideal location for pulling cold air. I wonder if the vents would freeze up with ice and snow in winter storm conditions. I suppose if that did start to happen, the easy solution would be to temporarily remove the top from the air box.
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- #267
Being that I'm able to use the factory 80 series steering box, I wanted to build my own power steering lines. I've been using the Aeroquip high pressure hose with Parker fittings on the buggies and I love them. They're great because they're not too expensive, they are fixable on the trail, and you can clock the fittings yourself, and they look OEM.
First of all though, you've got to convert your fittings to AN. The factory 80 box is M16x1.5 inverted flare for the pressure port, and M17x1.5 for the return.
Wits End and Summit had the adapters I needed to get to -6.
Since the return was slightly larger, I put on an adapter to - 8.
For the lines, the outer collar spins on counter clockwise.
Next, lubricate the threads and turn the insert inwards, clocked to your desired position.
Boom. Done.
I had to slightly modify the outputs on the PS pump. From the factory it's clocked to the 6 o'clock position, which puts the PS fitting into the frame.
I cut an alignment tab off so I could put it at 9 o'clock.
I took the factory fitting to the local hydraulic shop and had them weld on a - 6AN fitting.
First of all though, you've got to convert your fittings to AN. The factory 80 box is M16x1.5 inverted flare for the pressure port, and M17x1.5 for the return.
Wits End and Summit had the adapters I needed to get to -6.
Since the return was slightly larger, I put on an adapter to - 8.
For the lines, the outer collar spins on counter clockwise.
Next, lubricate the threads and turn the insert inwards, clocked to your desired position.
Boom. Done.
I had to slightly modify the outputs on the PS pump. From the factory it's clocked to the 6 o'clock position, which puts the PS fitting into the frame.
I cut an alignment tab off so I could put it at 9 o'clock.
I took the factory fitting to the local hydraulic shop and had them weld on a - 6AN fitting.
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- Thread starter
- #268
Today I got the AC condenser mounted. As I said earlier, I knew I wanted to use oem Toyota components for the AC. The Sequoia condenser was slightly too large, so I cruised to local junkyard with a tape meause and found the perfect size in a GX470
My other condenser in Uzj40 was about 20x16. This one is 24x24. The factory Sequoia is 24x26, so I'm losing a bit of real estate, but it would be behind the headlights and out of direct airflow anyway. I did notice while in the junkyard that most sedans (Camry, Accord, Volvo) are about 16x20. I'm hoping to have some great performance with this setup. The other nice thing is a junkyard condenser is $40. The aftermarket from Vintage or Old Air are around $150.
Put the lights in to make sure everything still fits
My other condenser in Uzj40 was about 20x16. This one is 24x24. The factory Sequoia is 24x26, so I'm losing a bit of real estate, but it would be behind the headlights and out of direct airflow anyway. I did notice while in the junkyard that most sedans (Camry, Accord, Volvo) are about 16x20. I'm hoping to have some great performance with this setup. The other nice thing is a junkyard condenser is $40. The aftermarket from Vintage or Old Air are around $150.
Put the lights in to make sure everything still fits
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- #269
Not much done over Xmas... Being that the 80 series was AWD, I had to find some front part time hubs rather than running the factory drive flanges. I was able to find some nice Aisin hubs locally. They will look nice with the steelies -
I got the OEM remote oil filter mounted and the lines made -
I had to rework the floor due to the length of the drivetrain. It will also be a long tunnel. The main reason is on a typical Land Cruiser diff with a passenger side front and rear diff drop, the rear output is low and offset. On the Tundra transfer case, since the rear is centered, it comes straight out the back of the transfer case and is much higher -
I got the OEM remote oil filter mounted and the lines made -
I had to rework the floor due to the length of the drivetrain. It will also be a long tunnel. The main reason is on a typical Land Cruiser diff with a passenger side front and rear diff drop, the rear output is low and offset. On the Tundra transfer case, since the rear is centered, it comes straight out the back of the transfer case and is much higher -
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- #270
A bit of progress today. I got the ECU mounted in the firewall like they have it in the Tundra.
I made a template with masking tape -
Transferred to firewall -
Installed -
Doesn't take up much room in the glove box -
I made a template with masking tape -
Transferred to firewall -
Installed -
Doesn't take up much room in the glove box -
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- Thread starter
- #271
Also played around with rear bed options. I thought about doing a flatbed, but not convinced yet. We happen to have a lot of extra cardboard right now so I had plenty to work with. I have sent pretty cool things in store for the bed....
EWheeler
GOLD Star
I vote custom 40 based bed, similar to a SWB bed.
For Sale - 1977 fj40/45
Ok I know this isn't a true 45 but it does have a cut down 45 bed on it. This started out as a 77 fj40 that was cut just behind the doors to make the cab. The frame was cut and extended 32 inches to make room for the 5ft bed. The bed came from a 64 fj45 swb. The back quarters were rotted off...
forum.ih8mud.com
You can use mostly off the shelf parts and even a drop down tailgate. It would be SICK to see someone build a FJ40 hardtop sides based bed topper
Always enjoy the thoughfull progress, keep at it!
- Thread starter
- #274
Picked up driveshafts this morning. Adam's Driveshaft in Las Vegas did an amazing job as always.
What a good feeling having these things fit and ready to go. One less thing on the list!
On the back of the OEM Sequoia oil filter housing I had to relocate is the oil pressure sender.
Since I'm using the Dakota Digital dash, I needed to convert from the factory size of 1/8 BSP to 1/8 NPT. This is the correct adapter for that, as well as a 90 degree 1/8 NPT fitting with the Dakota Digital sender installed.
I also needed to install a sender for the engine coolant temp for the Dakota gauges while retaining the OEM sensor.
There's a threaded standoff on the aluminum pipe next to the OEM sensor I decided to use.
I cut it down 1/2" so the sensor would be more in the water flow. (you can see the OEM sensor in the right side of the neck)
Next I drilled it with a size H drill bit, which is the correct size for a 1/8 NPT tap
All done
What a good feeling having these things fit and ready to go. One less thing on the list!
On the back of the OEM Sequoia oil filter housing I had to relocate is the oil pressure sender.
Since I'm using the Dakota Digital dash, I needed to convert from the factory size of 1/8 BSP to 1/8 NPT. This is the correct adapter for that, as well as a 90 degree 1/8 NPT fitting with the Dakota Digital sender installed.
I also needed to install a sender for the engine coolant temp for the Dakota gauges while retaining the OEM sensor.
There's a threaded standoff on the aluminum pipe next to the OEM sensor I decided to use.
I cut it down 1/2" so the sensor would be more in the water flow. (you can see the OEM sensor in the right side of the neck)
Next I drilled it with a size H drill bit, which is the correct size for a 1/8 NPT tap
All done
Wow, so much skill involved here... Great work
- Thread starter
- #276
So I decided I wanted heated seats in the 45.
***the wife wanted heated seats in the 45
I didn't want any aftermarket switches on the dash, so I chose to use OEM 40 headlight switches since their 2 positions will mimic the high/low positions on the switches that come with the seat heater kit.
A friend has a 3d printer, so we're working on a good looking knob for these switches.
The little silver thing you see to the right of the switch is a M5x.8 (same as headlight switch) insert that's made to push into a 3d printed object.
Here's version 1...not sure if we'll keep or change it. We might use a seat heat logo instead, but I thought a simple SH would look nice. There's one on the passenger side as well.
***the wife wanted heated seats in the 45
I didn't want any aftermarket switches on the dash, so I chose to use OEM 40 headlight switches since their 2 positions will mimic the high/low positions on the switches that come with the seat heater kit.
A friend has a 3d printer, so we're working on a good looking knob for these switches.
The little silver thing you see to the right of the switch is a M5x.8 (same as headlight switch) insert that's made to push into a 3d printed object.
Here's version 1...not sure if we'll keep or change it. We might use a seat heat logo instead, but I thought a simple SH would look nice. There's one on the passenger side as well.
Brilliant work on the seat heater knob. Care to share your source for the push-in insert? I've got some 3D printed knobs going for my 40 as well... hadn't quite sorted the way to get them on the switch.
I do a lot of inserts in 3d printed parts. You can find variations of them on amazon and eBay all day. But the Tapered McMaster ones are the best McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/heat-set-inserts/system-of-measurement~metric/thread-size~m5/
Don't need the fancy tips if you're doing only a few. Normal soldering iron works.
Although depending on the print. SLS vs FDM. A heatset may not work as it won't melt. And you'll need a threaded insert. McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/threaded-inserts/threaded-insert-type~tapping/system-of-measurement~metric/thread-size~m5/
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- #279
I vote custom 40 based bed, similar to a SWB bed.
For Sale - 1977 fj40/45
Ok I know this isn't a true 45 but it does have a cut down 45 bed on it. This started out as a 77 fj40 that was cut just behind the doors to make the cab. The frame was cut and extended 32 inches to make room for the 5ft bed. The bed came from a 64 fj45 swb. The back quarters were rotted off...
You can use mostly off the shelf parts and even a drop down tailgate. It would be SICK to see someone build a FJ40 hardtop sides based bed topper
I agree... I think a flatbed would be easier, but I have yet to see on that I'm in love with on a 45. Thanks for the input!
Thank you, will do!
Thank you!
I did not purchase them, but I believe they are from McMaster, as noted below. Thank you!
Thanks for the info! I'm a newbie with 3d printing...
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- #280
Time to get to work on the bed. I know I want the outside to be about the size of a SWB 45, but have the boxier look of a LWB 45. Regardless of how the exterior of the bed looks, I've been trying to figure out how I wanted the interior and floor to look. I do not have nice metal forming equipment, so I thought about buying the floor out of a junkyard truck so I'd have the OEM look of stamped panels. I set out looking for a nice stamped bet, which could be a tall order
The width of the 45 cab is just under 60", so that's what I was on the hunt for -
I stumbled across a hardbody Nissan and the bed was in spectacular shape, so I started taking some measurements...
The width is perfect. The interior of the bed is great. The length from the rear of the bed to the front of the wheel wells was perfect also, so time to grab it!
After cutting the bed in two, time for a test fit. I think it'll be great!!! (shhhhhh, don't tell anyone it's a Nissan part!)
Now that I have the interior of the bed, I can skin it, and make fender flares and a tail gate
The width of the 45 cab is just under 60", so that's what I was on the hunt for -
I stumbled across a hardbody Nissan and the bed was in spectacular shape, so I started taking some measurements...
The width is perfect. The interior of the bed is great. The length from the rear of the bed to the front of the wheel wells was perfect also, so time to grab it!
After cutting the bed in two, time for a test fit. I think it'll be great!!! (shhhhhh, don't tell anyone it's a Nissan part!)
Now that I have the interior of the bed, I can skin it, and make fender flares and a tail gate
