Builds Build #2 - 45 Extended Cab, 80 Frame, iForce 5.7 3UR (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter UZJ40
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- #242
Big progress this morning... I took a lot of pictures because I had numerous requests on my last thread for pictures of my motor mounts.
I duplicated the mounting pattern of the OEM mounts. Driver and passenger sides are slightly different shapes.
Welding the mounting tabs on
I duplicated the mounting pattern of the OEM mounts. Driver and passenger sides are slightly different shapes.
Welding the mounting tabs on
What guides did you use to mount? Firewall clearance? Radiator spacing?
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- #245
I knew where I wanted the bib placed, so I worked from there backwards. I marked on the frame where I wanted the bib and radiator, then put the fan about 2" behind that.
I also wanted it as low as possible for transmission and transfer case clearance.
I was ready to get the grinder and Sawzall out as I lowered the body onto the frame, but it actually fit wonderfully.
You can see the silver marks on the frame
Plenty of room for radiator and possibly AC condenser up front. Also happy with wheel positioning in relation to fenders. These tires are 32's. It will be getting 37s here soon.
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- #247
Not much of a kit... A local speed shop in town sells them. Can use them as motor mounts, body mounts, etc. These are 1.75". The DOM I used is 1.25" .120 wall. The plates are 3/16".
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
Question on your mounts as I have to figure out my own for the 1uz, do you have a busching in between the bolt and the tube section or is the mount on the block side of that?
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- #251
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- #252
Did some more measuring this morning. Without the bib in place, you can see how much the hood sags. I'd say there's 2-4" of clearance above the engine.
And the ever important engine garnish...
The 80 series oem brake booster also fits where I had it planned for the 1fz engine, which is pretty amazing. There's about 1/8" of space as of right now. Good thing for the poly engine mounts!
And the ever important engine garnish...
The 80 series oem brake booster also fits where I had it planned for the 1fz engine, which is pretty amazing. There's about 1/8" of space as of right now. Good thing for the poly engine mounts!
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- #253
I have been on the lookout for FJ Cruiser steel wheels. Not only do I like the look, but they're 17s which will give me many more tire options.
But the biggest advantage for them on this setup is they have a higher offset, so they will reduce the tire poke. A lot of 80 series guys that run them use spacers to get their tires flush with their fenders again, but I won't need them.
I also put a fender on to make sure I liked the position of the tire in it. It's very close to where I was hoping for. I think it will look very nice with large tires.
Before
After
With fender
Here are two pictures from under the engine. There is plenty of clearance between the front diff and oil pan.
But the biggest advantage for them on this setup is they have a higher offset, so they will reduce the tire poke. A lot of 80 series guys that run them use spacers to get their tires flush with their fenders again, but I won't need them.
I also put a fender on to make sure I liked the position of the tire in it. It's very close to where I was hoping for. I think it will look very nice with large tires.
Before
After
With fender
Here are two pictures from under the engine. There is plenty of clearance between the front diff and oil pan.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #254
Update time... Got a lot accomplished the past couple days.
Time to work on the steering column. Thanks to @allan man for always letting me take measurements from his 40. Stock steering column angle is roughly 33 degrees.
Starting from scratch - making a plate for the steering column to go through the fire wall.
Lining up to make the oblong hole.
Welding it in place
Trimming the excess tubing off
Time to work on the steering column. Thanks to @allan man for always letting me take measurements from his 40. Stock steering column angle is roughly 33 degrees.
Starting from scratch - making a plate for the steering column to go through the fire wall.
Lining up to make the oblong hole.
Welding it in place
Trimming the excess tubing off
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- #255
I found a perfect bearing on Amazon for the stock 40 steering column. They are .75 ID and 1 3/8 OD with a small flange. It seriously fit perfect - just lightly tap into place. They are only about $2.50 each.
Welding the ujoints in
Welding the ujoint on the other side from the trimmed up factory 80 series steering shaft with a support heim in it
All connected! She steers via the steering wheel again!
Plenty of clearance from headers
Welding the ujoints in
Welding the ujoint on the other side from the trimmed up factory 80 series steering shaft with a support heim in it
All connected! She steers via the steering wheel again!
Plenty of clearance from headers
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- #256
I also got the air intake/box finished. I had to make it in a few pieces because it is a wedge shape and unable to slide in as a single piece.
Rough placement of intake tubing -
Making the box -
All finished
Rough placement of intake tubing -
Making the box -
All finished
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- #257
I took the front springs out and the the frame lower all they way to check clearance. The part circled in red is the oil filter/oil cooler/pressure relief valve. It did make contact with the front diff at full bump, so I knew I had to relocate it.
I thought about going with an aftermarket oil filter relocation kit, but I couldn't find one with a pressure relief valve build in, and I liked the idea of the OEM oil cooler, so I just decided to move this one.
Here is the engine with the piece removed... plenty of clearance everywhere now
Making a template to transfer to 3/8 plate
Using center punches to mark the bolt holes
Test fitting
Welded on -10 AN bungs
And the same, except for aluminum
All set to make some hoses with AN fittings now.
I thought about going with an aftermarket oil filter relocation kit, but I couldn't find one with a pressure relief valve build in, and I liked the idea of the OEM oil cooler, so I just decided to move this one.
Here is the engine with the piece removed... plenty of clearance everywhere now
Making a template to transfer to 3/8 plate
Using center punches to mark the bolt holes
Test fitting
Welded on -10 AN bungs
And the same, except for aluminum
All set to make some hoses with AN fittings now.
How 'airtight' are you trying to make this box?
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- #259
Not overly concerned with air tight, just trying to keep the majority of the hot air out. I may use thin weatherstripping on the edges of the box during final assembly.
