Builds Bubba Goes Beast: (Slee Bumper, TJM, 35's & More!)

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What did you decide on the front recovery hooks?

Picked up a couple of 36,000 lb soft shackles, and plan to round out the inner edges.

So...not for sale yet! ;)
 
The TJM looks very nice. I had one of their older T3 style bumpers on my 100, and it looks like they've increased the quality since then. It also looks like it comes with LED fog lights and LED turn signals which is great since you have to buy those separately on the ARB if you want LED. I still probably prefer my ARB slightly with the Slee LED light conversion kit, but by the time you add the cost of the ARB, Slee kit, and Rigid fogs you're looking at quite a lot more than the TJM. Definitely a great option for sure, and if I was buying a new bumper I'd have a hard time deciding.
 
The TJM looks very nice. I had one of their older T3 style bumpers on my 100, and it looks like they've increased the quality since then. It also looks like it comes with LED fog lights and LED turn signals which is great since you have to buy those separately on the ARB if you want LED. I still probably prefer my ARB slightly with the Slee LED light conversion kit, but by the time you add the cost of the ARB, Slee kit, and Rigid fogs you're looking at quite a lot more than the TJM. Definitely a great option for sure, and if I was buying a new bumper I'd have a hard time deciding.

I was pleasantly surprised with the TJM fogs and indicators. When I first turned them on in the garage, I thought they were garbage since all I could see was a thin line of horizontal light from the fogs. But when I finally got to use them on the road, it turns out that thin light spreads out to an evenly-lit, wide swath of usable light in normal, every day use at night...that is also aimed just shy of on-coming traffic eyes.

The indicators are fantastic, and are a near perfect match for the sleepy rear indicators. They flash yellow in sync with blinkers or hazards, and when headlights are on, they provide a very nice little square of white lights when headlights are actually useful, I leave them on at all times and it makes a nice combo with the square, white indicators at night.

Super happy with the bumper.
 
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Picked up a couple of 36,000 lb soft shackles, and plan to round out the inner edges.

So...not for sale yet! ;)
I have my 2 now so good here. But they are almost as rare as RW!
 
I have my 2 now so good here. But they are almost as rare as RW!

What I think is funny...the box ARB packages those recovery points in could hold 20 of em. :)
 
:doh: :rimshot: :bang: :cheers:
 
Bubba Looks Handsome!!! Nice touch with the TEQ logo badge on the tail. I might have to go with the Red and silver.
 
@Romer, this now classic thread belongs in the Member's Builds section of the FAQs.

Can't believe I missed it. Must have been slacking. It is there now. Thanks for the reminder
 
Markuson, what were the dimensions of the rear hatch To-yo-ta (TEq) logo? Did you go with the one made for the 5th gen 4-runner?
 
@Markuson:

Please describe in excruciating detail the process of opening the rear of the 2-Hundo with the Slee rear bumper. You have to swing out both arms, correct? How big a deal is it?
 
@Markuson:

Please describe in excruciating detail the process of opening the rear of the 2-Hundo with the Slee rear bumper. You have to swing out both arms, correct? How big a deal is it?

Yesterday I decided to time how many extra seconds it takes to open with swing-outs vs. just the rear hatch and tail-gate.

It only takes an extra 11 seconds, and tgat's without hurrying. :)

Here's what you do:

1. Pull the main lever
2. Lift up on the lock-shut pin on right swing-out, and hang on the the pin handle so it doesn't slam open too hard
3. Repeat 2 for left arm.

Now open hatch as normal.

To close:
1. Press unlock lever on left gas strut to release from lock-out and push shut.
2. Do same for right side (right side always closes second...as it overlaps left. This is why it only needs a single main lock lever.
3. Pull "trigger lever" as you grab the main lock lever (flips lock into position) and push lever forward.

Done.

Again...
Opening takes an extra 10-11 seconds to open...and one hand only.
Closing is easier with two hands (due to gas strut lockout release) but is otherwise quick.

**PHOTOS**
-For photos of both gas struts and the main lever design...go to page 10 of this thread and scroll down.
 
Thanks for that reply. My 200 is scheduled in for a rear bumper. Concerned about extra hassle for the :princess: with the swingouts.
 
Thanks for that reply. My 200 is scheduled in for a rear bumper. Concerned about extra hassle for the :princess: with the swingouts.

I do understand. :) It's not a total no-brainer, as you do need to keep it from banging open. The struts are strong enough to open them when on a slant...but that means they are strong enough that you don't want to just let them slam themselves open. Also, you do want to make sure anyone who is going to close it understands the importance of unlocking the struts as you begin to close (simply pressing the red button as you begin initial movement). It is most certainly an additional step...but if you want fuel, and larger tires etc., it's teh way to go. Also...if you7 have valuables in drawers, you can lock the swing outs shut with a cable lock, meaning items inside drawers are even more protected from thieves. Heck, if you REALLY want to prevent drawer access? Back up close to a tree or wall...and no opening is then possible. :hillbilly:
 
I feel stupid asking this, but could you post a vid of the opening and closing process?
 

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