Seems likely, but that's not what Mark described on post 159.
Builds Bubba Goes Beast: (Slee Bumper, TJM, 35's & More!)
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Seems likely, but that's not what Mark described on post 159.
Markuson
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- Thread starter
- #182
Ya, it wasn't going anywhere. I was not only resting on my rear upper control arm, but a 90 degree rock was pressing against the front UCA anchor point, which is a sharp angle...and my left rear tire was up against a rock face that was perpendicular to the ground. No way to climb that. And finally, I couldnt reverse out either, because I was basically sitting on a table shaped rock...with both left tires enclosing the table-top in the middle.
Like a turtle sitting on an upside-down 5 gallon bucket with a belly the size of that bucket...with two of his legs dangling.
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Markuson
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- Thread starter
- #183
Weight concerns (especially high-mounted weight) is one reason a roof rack has been far lower on my priority list...and also why I pack a ton of heavy stuff in my ARB drawers. My drawers are my lower storage option, so I pack those suckers and they are HEAVY. So far, I've been pleased with articulation.
About that... I have a bit of a forward rake right now, but the rake also means I have more down-travel available in front since the rake means I have some CV joint down-travel still available relative to the other front wheel. So while it might look a little better to crank my CV angle sharper to even it out, I'd make it all the more difficult to get downward reach relative to the other front tire. I may leave the rake for that reason.
Rear articulation & full-stuff will only be limited by the weight of my coil springs and load, since no bump-stops were added in back.
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Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Kinda going off what is being talked about with articulation, traction, and 35s for big rock crawling trails.
I've got timbens in the garage that came from another truck, I put those on the 200 a while ago to see about fitting 35s. But, for the same reason they always come off of every truck I put them on, they limit flex A LOT. From my opinion, I can safely go on harder trails, by staying flatter with about 2" more front end flex, than being .6" taller from Marks 34.7 over my 33.5 tires.
Now with lockers, yea, doesn't matter how little weight is sitting on the tire, you'll get traction.
But Mark, when we run the Rubicon like we've talked about, I'm just going to say it now, I'm not hating you know that, but I think you are going to feel more uneasy because of what is required to put a 35 in a 200
I've got timbens in the garage that came from another truck, I put those on the 200 a while ago to see about fitting 35s. But, for the same reason they always come off of every truck I put them on, they limit flex A LOT. From my opinion, I can safely go on harder trails, by staying flatter with about 2" more front end flex, than being .6" taller from Marks 34.7 over my 33.5 tires.
Now with lockers, yea, doesn't matter how little weight is sitting on the tire, you'll get traction.
But Mark, when we run the Rubicon like we've talked about, I'm just going to say it now, I'm not hating you know that, but I think you are going to feel more uneasy because of what is required to put a 35 in a 200
RET2
SILVER Star
Rubicon=underarmor
Under, over, inside, in between.
Markuson
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- Thread starter
- #187
Edit for @Taco2Cruiser ...
These tires list at 34.7, but they are exactly 34 mounted. With weight of truck, they sit closer to 33.6 from ground to top. -Tthinking of getting rid of Timbrens.
---
Yes. I believe you, taco, and that is certainly something I'm thinking about regarding 35s and articulation. On the other hand… These tires measure exactly 34 inches tall mounted, aired up, and off the truck. That is only about 0.2 inches taller than the 285/75/17's… So it's not as tall as some "thirty-fives".
I also think that the front bump stops are actually thicker than they need to be. I would like to do a full stuff and measure the leeway… In order to consider shorter bump stops in front.
So yeah… Taco, I'm not a bit surprised to hear your perspective, and was actually expecting to hear that. I also know, though, that you've been considering 285/75's and if so will almost exactly match my tire height, save for about an inch less width. So I will be super interested in your thoughts if you ever go 285/75.
No pride here… As I fully recognize compromises. Originally, we were skipping the bump stops in front all together and I actually think we could. So that is something I'll be actively investigating. Thanks for your thoughts for sure.
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^^^^EMPTY placeholders 5-8...
Just sayin'
Just sayin'
Markuson
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- Thread starter
- #191
Some detail shots...
For those asking for front bumper extension side-shot... The TJM T13 is pretty compact in front for a full bull bar:
Here's a shot of the Type-X Driving Lights from Stedi in Australia. These are both combination spot and flood. Very happy with them...$600 shipped, complete with wiring and switching to tie to your brights when you activate an included switch. Here's a shot the the VERY stout mounts that come with them:
Few more Stedi shots:
For those asking for front bumper extension side-shot... The TJM T13 is pretty compact in front for a full bull bar:
Here's a shot of the Type-X Driving Lights from Stedi in Australia. These are both combination spot and flood. Very happy with them...$600 shipped, complete with wiring and switching to tie to your brights when you activate an included switch. Here's a shot the the VERY stout mounts that come with them:
Few more Stedi shots:
Markuson
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- Thread starter
- #192
Some Slee Bumper Detail:
Locking struts hold arms open:
View of struts when closed:
Heavy accessories kept as close to the hatch as possible:
Nicely Tucked when closed...almost zero movement over rough terrain:
License Plate illumination swings with left arm:
Locking struts hold arms open:
View of struts when closed:
Heavy accessories kept as close to the hatch as possible:
Nicely Tucked when closed...almost zero movement over rough terrain:
License Plate illumination swings with left arm:
Markuson
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #193
Custom lock-lever design is fantastic, and easy on the wrist (note angled handle, vs. standard upright handles on most bumpers)...
To close, a handy lever is added so that you can flip the hook upward with the same hand as you grab the main handle:
With the hook now engaged, you just push, and it's locked:
When turning in for service, or just for assurance no one messes with it while away for long periods, I simply wrap a bike lock between each arm...making it impossible to open, and also impossible to open my hatch, drawers, etc. Want added security? Add a bigger lock/cable.
To close, a handy lever is added so that you can flip the hook upward with the same hand as you grab the main handle:
With the hook now engaged, you just push, and it's locked:
When turning in for service, or just for assurance no one messes with it while away for long periods, I simply wrap a bike lock between each arm...making it impossible to open, and also impossible to open my hatch, drawers, etc. Want added security? Add a bigger lock/cable.
I'm sold on the TJM. I like it. Very nice!
What did you decide on the front recovery hooks?
Those are Christo's undershorts? Figured they'd be made of steel.
(Fixed it)
