Builds Bubba Goes Beast: (Slee Bumper, TJM, 35's & More!)

[linuxgod]

How do you like the Ridge Grapplers?

I know the question was directed at @Markuson, but since I have them in 34s I'll chime in too...

Best A/T tire I've ever tried. They stuck to everything I drove through in CO, UT, and AZ this summer - solid rock, loose rock, dirt, mud all no problem. They were a little noisy at first but quieted down after about 5k miles. Definitely took a gas mileage hit, but I chalk that up mostly to the move from all season p-metric low rolling resistance tires to aggressive, sticky A/T tires. My 4Runner took a ~10% hit switching to A/T tires of the same size, and I'd say this swap was similar.

I'm curious to see how long they last. My rear tires haven't even worn off the little 1/32" (or maybe 1/16") groove on the front of the outside lugs yet. Also curious to see how they handle snow this winter.

IMO they soak up the road better than the stock tires, though I did go up from 31.5" to 34" and down from 18" to 17" wheels. The only time I "feel" them is in the 2-3 mph range where I can feel the lugs on the pavement.

 

[Markuson]

@linuxgod gave a good summary of the Ridge Grapplers...

Mine are 35x12x5x17 and they are heavy...but my experience with them gas been good.

The only thing I'd change if I could would be for certain muddy situations involving tread voids....BUT then again, this is an AT tire...not a full mud.
-So ya, even though it's an AT, I'd love it if the voids were slightly wider. The tread voids front to back (voids running sideways) are adequately large and grab well for forward/reverse grip in mush...but my wish would include making the voids running around the tire (circular direction) a bit WIDER to help with combinations of muddy, off-camber sections. I think this would help avoid side-slides a bit. Forward and back, grip was great, but side-sliding could improve. On the other hand... these are not full mud tires, and shouldn't be expected to perform like one.

Again, it's not fair to ask an AT tire to act like a full mud...

I had them aired down as low as 18...inadvertently dipping even lower at one point, but would stick around 18ish as my lowest target PSI on my RW rims.

ON road? Super quiet for a huge, heavy AT tire. I was frankly blown away with their quiet manners and general road handling. I look forward to trying them in snow...but no opportunity yet.

Overall? LOVE them and I have no regrets with the choice.

Full disclosure, I did lose a single, small chunk on one tread in Moab, but considering what we were doing, that's pretty dang good. Very small...maybe a half-inch wide...within a middle tread.
But I was beating the CRAP of them--especially on the way down Top of the World in the dark. Actually pretty impressed to only find one small spot.

No hesitation in recommending this AT.

 

[TexAZ]

I'm running RGs in 35/11.50r20 and was amazed how well the tires did in Moab. Super grippy. Definitely not a mud terrain or sand tire, but for street running, rocks, and trails they are great.

I had one tire ruined by a sidewall gash, dropping off a ledge onto a jagged rock at night. I don't think any tire would have survived that.
other than that the tires look as good as new.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Forward and back, grip was great, but side-sliding could improve. On the other hand... these are not full mud tires, and shouldn't be expected to perform like one.

Big thanks Mark, I think you just saved me a ton of money.

 

[Markuson]

Big thanks Mark, I think you just saved me a ton of money.

That's why I try to include my own nit-picking... Like I say... Over-all, they are great. But that's my nit-pick.

 

[Ali M]

your rig is definitely a beast. you just raised the bar for me again. thanks a lot

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Awesome build! You now just need to add some Bubba Rope to Bubba in a drawer labeled "Bubba's Bubba".

 

[Markuson]

Awesome build! You now just need to add some Bubba Rope to Bubba in a drawer labeled "Bubba's Bubba".

Heh... Ya...but wow! Have you priced those Bubba ropes??

30 foot rope is $200!!

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Yeah, I have. That is why my bag still does not have one... although it is definitely on my list!

 

[Markuson]

Rubicon=underarmor

Yes indeed. -Both on da truck and under da pants!

 

[ckkone]

What switches did you use for your fog lights? Did you use the switch that TJM includes?

 

[Markuson]

What switches did you use for your fog lights? Did you use the switch that TJM includes?

No need for fog switches since the TJM fogs (which are excellent) simply take the place of your stock fogs and the built-in fog switch on your stock light control stick.

I'd like to figure out how to keep them on with brights some time...since the TJM fogs really cast a nice, wide swath...but that's not a TJM thing...rather just a Toyota switching thing...

 

[ckkone]

I just got my TJM bumper, I was planning on wiring the fogs with the TJM switch so I could use them independent of the headlights. I also have a set of 9" LED fog lights I want to add. My issue is I hate not having matching switches, so I'm looking for another TJM switch.

 

[linuxgod]

Fog lights aren't really designed to be run with high beams. Fogs are supposed to drop off after a relatively short distance. If you want better visibility when using your high beams, add a set of spot or driving lamps and tie them into the high beam circuit.

FYI in most states you're allowed to run up to 4 lights so long as they are DOT approved. So you can run your headlights plus fogs, or high beams plus driving lights, but you can't run your high beams plus driving lights plus fogs legally. The laws vary state by state but most of the ones I've seen look very similar to this:

Spot lamps and auxiliary lamps.​

(1) Spot lamps. Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two spot lamps and every lighted spot lamp shall be so aimed and used that no part of the high intensity portion of the beam will strike the windshield, or any windows, mirror, or occupant of another vehicle in use.
(2) Fog lamps. Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two fog lamps mounted on the front at a height of not less than twelve inches nor more than thirty inches above the level surface upon which the vehicle stands and so aimed that when the vehicle is not loaded none of the high intensity portion of the light to the left of the center of the vehicle shall at a distance of twenty-five feet ahead project higher than a level of four inches below the level of the center of the lamp from which it comes. Lighted fog lamps meeting the above requirements may be used with lower head lamp beams as specified in RCW46.37.220.
(3) Auxiliary passing lamps. Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary passing lamps mounted on the front at a height not less than twenty-four inches nor more than forty-two inches above the level surface upon which the vehicle stands. The provisions of RCW 46.37.220 shall apply to any combinations of head lamps and auxiliary passing lamps.
(4) Auxiliary driving lamps. Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary driving lamps mounted on the front at a height not less than sixteen inches nor more than forty-two inches above the level surface upon which the vehicle stands. The provisions of RCW 46.37.220 shall apply to any combination of head lamps and auxiliary driving lamps.

 

[Markuson]

Fog lights aren't really designed to be run with high beams. Fogs are supposed to drop off after a relatively short distance. If you want better visibility when using your high beams, add a set of spot or driving lamps and tie them into the high beam circuit.

FYI in most states you're allowed to run up to 4 lights so long as they are DOT approved. So you can run your headlights plus fogs, or high beams plus driving lights, but you can't run your high beams plus driving lights plus fogs legally. The laws vary state by state but most of the ones I've seen look very similar to this:

Spot lamps and auxiliary lamps.​

(1) Spot lamps. Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two spot lamps and every lighted spot lamp shall be so aimed and used that no part of the high intensity portion of the beam will strike the windshield, or any windows, mirror, or occupant of another vehicle in use.
(2) Fog lamps. Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two fog lamps mounted on the front at a height of not less than twelve inches nor more than thirty inches above the level surface upon which the vehicle stands and so aimed that when the vehicle is not loaded none of the high intensity portion of the light to the left of the center of the vehicle shall at a distance of twenty-five feet ahead project higher than a level of four inches below the level of the center of the lamp from which it comes. Lighted fog lamps meeting the above requirements may be used with lower head lamp beams as specified in RCW46.37.220.
(3) Auxiliary passing lamps. Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary passing lamps mounted on the front at a height not less than twenty-four inches nor more than forty-two inches above the level surface upon which the vehicle stands. The provisions of RCW 46.37.220 shall apply to any combinations of head lamps and auxiliary passing lamps.
(4) Auxiliary driving lamps. Any motor vehicle may be equipped with not to exceed two auxiliary driving lamps mounted on the front at a height not less than sixteen inches nor more than forty-two inches above the level surface upon which the vehicle stands. The provisions of RCW 46.37.220 shall apply to any combination of head lamps and auxiliary driving lamps.

No argument from me there. All true in normal driving, of course.
It's just that these particular fogs are actually useful at **low speed, off road,** where sometimes it's nice to cast just that bit of extra-wide, light down low.

Normally I find most standard fog lights pretty useless, but these are far brighter and more useful than typical fogs IMHO. Not a big deal, or I'd have fiddled with it already... Mainly just saying these "fogs" are quite "illuminating" for fogs.

 

[RET2]

What if you wired in another switch and added a resistor to avoid back feeding to the stock switch?

 

[Markuson]

What if you wired in another switch and added a resistor to avoid back feeding to the stock switch?

Sounds like I need to visit your shop, Ralph!

 

[RET2]

Sounds like I need to visit your shop, Ralph!

I plan on doing this but with the Baja Designs rear lights. FYI I am almost ready to move rear camera location just have to get BB skids on when they send correct hardware.

 

[linuxgod]

What if you wired in another switch and added a resistor to avoid back feeding to the stock switch?

You want a diode, not a resistor.

 

[RET2]

I stand corrected, thank you sir. In fact after consulting my 12v power guru at Adventure Wired the solution is better served with a relay not a diode. Still very doable