Builds Broski's Adventure Rig build thread (2 Viewers)

[Broski]

I'd seriously worry they couldn't take the level of abuse i dish out - that's a lot of extra load on the body mounts, especially on a chopped truck with less body mounts. I also like how far the frame mount holds obstacles away from the body.

... But I'm an outlier.

Well your definitely a special case.
I can say that with out a doubt there holding up to a lot of abuse, If I were to do it again I would make them stick out further. That part is arbitrary
I can also say that having them up 3" to 4" higher then the frame mounted one's makes a big difference, Like it's a game changer have wheeled side by side with other 80 guy's that aren't afraid to beat on there rig.
I think it's one thing that would help me keep up with Sweet Brown
Looking forward to hitting some hard trails with you !

 

[DirtSniffer]

Here are a few more of mine. I didn't realize when planning it out that the B and C pillar parts bump out a bit, ended up notching my 2x5. Would maybe use 2x4 or have it stick out more if I were to do again, the rest of the inner rocker/pinch weld is easily hammered over. Sleeved a hole for the sunroof drain and just pulled the drain tube through when I put them up to weld. Those holes got solid rod plug welded in each of them, wanted a bit more support since I only used 1/8 wall. Left a few spots open on the inside for more drainage holes for the rocker.

 

[DirtSniffer]

One more... Had a little more cancer that had to be patched.

Here's that sunroof drain for reference. And the tubing I used to sleeve the hole for it on the end.

 

[Broski]

One more... Had a little more cancer that had to be patched.

View attachment 3553728

Here's that sunroof drain for reference. And the tubing I used to sleeve the hole for it on the end.

View attachment 3553727

Nice work.
The brace at the a pillar is key, more often then not when you come off a ledge or big rock you land right on the front portion of the slider right at or near the A pillar.
Definitely that spot takes the most abuse.
Mine are also made of .120 wall tube = 1/8" and holding up fine.

 

[Feldrian]

Well your definitely a special case.
I can say that with out a doubt there holding up to a lot of abuse, If I were to do it again I would make them stick out further. That part is arbitrary
I can also say that having them up 3" to 4" higher then the frame mounted one's makes a big difference, Like it's a game changer have wheeled side by side with other 80 guy's that aren't afraid to beat on there rig.
I think it's one thing that would help me keep up with Sweet Brown
Looking forward to hitting some hard trails with you !

I'm really impressed with the work @SNLC has done fabbing his sliders with his fabbed frame side mounts - really impressive. I wish I had those skills.

I actually really like the rocker replacement route but I just don't have enough to mount to being a truggy. If I went that way I'd be tempted to tub back to the frame with something removable so I could absolutely not worry about belly-snagging obstacles.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'm really impressed with the work @SNLC has done fabbing his sliders with his fabbed frame side mounts - really impressive. I wish I had those skills.

I actually really like the rocker replacement route but I just don't have enough to mount to being a truggy. If I went that way I'd be tempted to tub back to the frame with something removable so I could absolutely not worry about belly-snagging obstacles.

I took a similar aporoach to @DirtSniffer but went a bit more overkill.

I cut out door rebate/ thresholds so I could stitch weld the top edge of the RHS to the rocker structure. And it also let me fully weld the junction between the pillar structure and RHS.
Then, I welded the door thresholds back in.
The tube i used as outriggers for the side step, i drilled through the RHS, through the inner rocker panels, then welded aroundv the tube where it passed all the way through the rockers. This could be made longer and braced back up the the floor pan if you wanted to really make it stout.

Mine took a beating on a heavy 105 series cruiser. I bent and dented the side step tube a few times. One trip i was climbing in/ out through the passenger door for a while after bending a tube up, and the driver door couldn't open. Fixed at camp later that day.

The RHS took some gouges on the underside Beyond that, no sign of any weakness at all.

I will say though, you really felt it when a wheel dropped off a rock ledge, and the weight of the rig came down hard on the rockerslider.

I really noticed the extra clearance too

 

[Broski]

Did some mall crawling, did a Costco run she fired right up and everything seems to be working well. at first she was shaking like the dickens but as soon as the tires warmed up she smoothed right out.
Then she got a full brake fluid change

 

[Broski]

Played around with the cruiser today, I replaced the auxiliary fan. Not sure what Caused the damage but I replaced it with a new one

Then I installed the Solvefunction Cabin filter from @Outsane.
Pretty strait forward Job

And yes I got it all the way over to the right spot

 

[Broski]

Not a lot has been happen in the Cruiser world, Life's been in the way taking care of a lot of deferred maintenance around the place. And not a lot of runs this time of year so how can I break Sh*t
Currently I was messing with setting the toe and there a lot of opinions on just how much to set it at and ever more on where you should measure it

I have these bars that I borrowed from a friend, they bolt on to the hub and I have points marked that represent a stock tire 31" or close enough.
The FSM calls for 2* toe in which is roughly 1/8" to 3/16" so thats what I was shooting for. The issue is that I have welded the tabs for the Hydro assist to the tie rod so the best I can do is one full turn or pop a tie rod end and get a half a turn.
So after much monkeying around the closest I can get it is either 1/16" or 1/4" toe in.
Since I have the big 39" tires I was going to try the 1/4" toe in and see how it drive. Plan is to button it up tomorrow and see how it drives.
Suggestions welcome

 

[Outsane]

Mine likes 1/4 toe in

 

[raisinhell2]

1/4 here as well I bought a wide open design rod clamp for my hydro assist when I had it. I welded on the stud for the ram . they are like 50 bucks more with the stud

 

[Nay]

FYI you can use a telescoping rod to set toe with the tires on - I just eyeball the rear at somewhere 1/8 to 3/16 more than the rod set to hold itself between the tires to the front (as pictured).

I don’t worry about exactness - I do think a bit more toe in helps with low caster at the taller lifts and I haven’t had any tire wear beyond what you get with these tires anyway. This is on 38’s.

 

[OffRoadScott]

When I did mine I actually set it for an 1/8 out, yes the wondering of the caster is still there but I also reduced the odd scrubbing effect on my tires. I believe toe was over an 1" out

 

[Broski]

Yep tons of different ways to get it done.

@OffRoadScott how long are the bars ?

 

[OffRoadScott]

Yep tons of different ways to get it done.

@OffRoadScott how long are the bars ?

They are 24" in length. Should I be doing different measurements/settings?

 

[CharlieS]

I have the TMR alignment bars, they work great, especially since toe is all you can adjust.

 

[Broski]

They are 24" in length. Should I be doing different measurements/settings?

This is really where opinions differ, General consensus is 1/8” to 3/16” at a stock tire spacing or 31” for an 80 series land cruiser.
Some set it a a full tire 37” 40” on jeeps to Super duties on 40s
1/8” to 3/16” toe in was by far the most common number but varied greatly on where that measurement was taken.

 

[CharlieS]

When I did mine I actually set it for an 1/8 out, yes the wondering of the caster is still there but I also reduced the odd scrubbing effect on my tires. I believe toe was over an 1" out
View attachment 3583156View attachment 3583154

Might be an optical illusion, but they don't look parallel with the ground. I have a magnetic angle gauge (Wixey) that I level mine with before doing front and rear measurements.

 

[OffRoadScott]

This is really where opinions differ, General consensus is 1/8” to 3/16” at a stock tire spacing or 31” for an 80 series land cruiser.
Some set it a a full tire 37” 40” on jeeps to Super duties on 40s
1/8” to 3/16” toe in was by far the most common number but varied greatly on where that measurement was taken.

I am not against what is tried and proven, so I would be willing to change the settings. I have to work on the front end this weekend, have a wobble in the front end so I am going to make sure it is not wheel bearings, loose lugnuts etc.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Might be an optical illusion, but they don't look parallel with the ground. I have a magnetic angle gauge (Wixey) that I level mine with before doing front and rear measurements.

They weren't level to the ground but my driveway isn't level either. So it could be level based on the angle of the driveway.