Builds Broski's Adventure Rig build thread (5 Viewers)

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You and @Feldrian are correct in that there is not much lateral pressure on the circlip. The two snap rings simply prevent the inner axle from walking side to side. The flat snap ring prevents the axle moving toward the birfield and bottoming out into the bell. The wire circlip prevents the axle from shifting toward the diff. I suspect Toyota used the wire circlip to make it easier to remove. RCV may feel that a heavier, flat clip makes a stronger product. Or, maybe a flat machined clip is more readily available and therefore cheaper than custom forming a wire. Who knows.
You've got your axles together. Run em.

And since I'm already hijacking your thread @Broski, anyone remember the Martack? Marlin Crawler began putting a small tack weld on the differential splines of the axle and then omitting the wire circlip. This made swapping a birfield easier if you grenaded one on the trail. I still have my FJ40 axes set up this way.
I'd bet money that @Shipwreck nailed it. The flat snap rings are a commodity part and easy to source. Wire versions would need to be custom manufactured and probably end up more expensive for a weaker component.
 
Not a high jack
And the Martack is exactly where my thinking was coming from about the axle walking to far into the third.
The 300m 30 spline axles are 2 mm thicker at the birfild, so while the OEM ring may work, my guess is just barely.
Your explanation on the bigger flat snap ring make a lot of sense.
I payed a lot of money for the RCVs and fore whatever reason that they decided to use a bigger ring I’m running them.
I probably have a different perspective as well - my front 3rd is running a semi- float ARB carrier that you'd usually find in the rear. There's a puck in the middle of those that stops the axles from walking in to the carrier.
 
I'd bet money that @Shipwreck nailed it. The flat snap rings are a commodity part and easy to source. Wire versions would need to be custom manufactured and probably end up more expensive for a weaker component.
Agreed !!
 
Gotta be more creative then that.. it's too easy
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Once the front end's broken, it's about as good as a barbie jeep with pink hubcaps anyway...
 
Are you still happy with your sliders? I found your build from a thread about cutting and replacing your rockers with sliders. I have a 62 and my rockers are toast, rather than weld in patch panels, I'm planning on doing sliders exactly like yours. Feels like killing two birds with one stone, rust repair, and sliders in one. I'll probably never wheel as hard as you, so if they work for you I figure they'll be fine for my mild wheeling.

Thanks!
 
Are you still happy with your sliders? I found your build from a thread about cutting and replacing your rockers with sliders. I have a 62 and my rockers are toast, rather than weld in patch panels, I'm planning on doing sliders exactly like yours. Feels like killing two birds with one stone, rust repair, and sliders in one. I'll probably never wheel as hard as you, so if they work for you I figure they'll be fine for my mild wheeling.

Thanks!
Super happy with them still holding up to all my abuse.
One of the best bang for buck mod on the truck.
You won’t be disappointed!!
 
I was also inspired by your sliders and other who did similar and did them as an excuse to cut out some cancer. Haven't had a chance to test them yet but I have jacked the rig up and they didn't budge. I have more pictures on my old phone, would need to dig them up. Happy with how they turned out but there are a few things I would maybe do differently if I were to do it again. Keep in mind your cats will be exposed, you will want to modify the exhaust one way or another.

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I was also inspired by your sliders and other who did similar and did them as an excuse to cut out some cancer. Haven't had a chance to test them yet but I have jacked the rig up and they didn't budge. I have more pictures on my old phone, would need to dig them up. Happy with how they turned out but there are a few things I would maybe do differently if I were to do it again. Keep in mind your cats will be exposed, you will want to modify the exhaust one way or another.

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Nice work !
My cats have held up to a amazing amount of abuse. I always planed to to add armor but it just never happened.
 
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Are you still happy with your sliders? I found your build from a thread about cutting and replacing your rockers with sliders. I have a 62 and my rockers are toast, rather than weld in patch panels, I'm planning on doing sliders exactly like yours. Feels like killing two birds with one stone, rust repair, and sliders in one. I'll probably never wheel as hard as you, so if they work for you I figure they'll be fine for my mild wheeling.

Thanks!

I would 10/10 do the welded in sliders again

Bomb proof and clean!

Well, maybe 8 or 9/10. It's a lot of work :lol: but the result is great.
I think I spent about 3 full days doing mine
 
From everything I've seen, they do look like a lot of work, but my simpleton brain can justify them because it will be less work than welding in patch panels then building sliders separately. The added ground clearance is a bonus!
That was what i thought when I started on mine. It took around 20 hours, a pile of cutting discs, 2 sawzall blades, a lot of mumbled profanities and half a dozen shed sodas. But it's a lot less work than "doing it right".
 
That was what i thought when I started on mine. It took around 20 hours, a pile of cutting discs, 2 sawzall blades, a lot of mumbled profanities and half a dozen shed sodas. But it's a lot less work than "doing it right".
If you wheel your 80 then it’s as right as you can get.
If it’s a poser rig any sliders will do😁
 
If you wheel your 80 then it’s as right as you can get.
If it’s a poser rig any sliders will do😁
I'd seriously worry they couldn't take the level of abuse i dish out - that's a lot of extra load on the body mounts, especially on a chopped truck with less body mounts. I also like how far the frame mount holds obstacles away from the body.

... But I'm an outlier.
 

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