Broken control arm (1 Viewer)

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Box Rocket

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 2, 2003
Threads
149
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Location
Syracuse, Utah
First things first...THIS IS NOT INTENDED AS A BASH ON CHRISTO SLEE! I AM NOT SLAMMING HIS PRODUCTS IN ANY WAY.

I have had a set of Outback front control arms on my truck since I bought it back in 2001. They've seen many miles and plenty of wheeling. Christo can correct me if I'm remembering facts wrong but he worked with Brian Williams (?) of Outback suspensions to design these arms back in the late '90s. These arms included a wristed joint at the top (rear) of the control arm to relieve stress on the bushings and possibly help flex slightly.

Anyway, over Memorial Day weekend while on a camping trip with my family I noticed a new noise from the front end of my truck. Once I got home I took a closer look at things and found a crack in the driverside control arm that appeared to just be along the bottom of the arm just forward of the rear eye at the axle. Then I started pushing on the front section forward of the crack and it was clear that the arm had completely broken as the front peice of the arm up to the front eye was loose.

I pulled the arm last night and this is what I found. Clearly this arm has been cracked or partially broken for quite a while based on the rusty/greasy fracture surface. Also of note is that it has broken primarily right at the weld seam all the way around, with the exception of the very bottom that was the only portion of the tube that was maintained during construction. That is what failed on me last weekend, that bottom peice finally breaking.

What concerns me and why I am posting this is what appears to be extremely poor weld penetration around that joint for the bushing eye. There looks to be basically ZERO penetration into the control arm tube. I don't think there are too many out there running the old Outback arms like these, but their design and construction is very similar to the old (not the new machined) Slee arms. Most likely these arms were not welded up by the same individual that did the welding on the Slee arms so again, this is not meant as a criticism of Christo's product, but based purely on the similarity of the design I would recommend a close inspection of your control arms if you are running the old Slee arms. The tricky part is the problem area on my arms was hidden by the bracket on the axle and therefore difficult to see from a quick visual inspection. But checking frequently for cracks in your control arms can't be a bad thing just so you can catch a problem before in gets you in trouble.

I have seen some similar failures with some of the Slee arms, including a local cruiser guy that had a Slee arm fail on him in Moab. It was an almost identical failure except it broke behind the rear eye at the axle. So I'm just suggesting periodic inspection of your control arms if you have the Slee arms that aren't the new machined design.

Christo, I hope you don't take this as a jab, it is not intended as such and I thank you for you assitance and advice with this. For what it's worth I will be attempting to repair these arms and continue running them, but in the meantime I have some stock arms and just ordered new caster plates from Christo to use while I make repairs.

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bustedarm1.jpg
 
Adam, I just want to list the history of the arms so people are sure as to what they are looking at.

Your arms were the ones the had the wrist joint on the back. These were made by Brian way back when and supplied to us, even before we opened the shop. So all the welding was done by him or someone for him. Your failure is the same as what we have seen before. I agree, the welding penetration was not the best but at that time we were reselling the arms and they were in fact produced by Outback Suspension. At this time we had some early failures and they were either replaced or customers fixed them.

When we started to outsell what Brian could produce and he could not supply us anymore, we agreed with him to take over production. We contracted a manufacturing company to make them for us. At that time removed the threaded joint. We also decreased the notching in the tube that runs past the two bushings to increase material thickness in the area of the failures, however a few sets were still made with the thinner webbing. We also changed the welding at this point to ensure better penetration. Intitial welding was TIG and we opted to go away from that. We also added some gussets on the back of the arm between the round rube and the bushing eye. I am not aware of any failures on these arms, but there might be some that I do not know about.

It was due to the failures, which was a very small percentage of arms made, that we finally went to a billet machined arm. The main reason for that was to remove the inconsistencies of welding. To date I am not aware of anyone that has broken one of these arms :D

Also, to be clear, I have talked to Kurt about this and we discussed options. I have no problem with him posting this. In the early days, we knew were all the trucks were with these parts on them, but these days they have changed hands a couple of times. So yes, as he has suggested people should check them. If they have questions, please feel free to call us.
 
I have seen some similar failures with some of the Slee arms, including a local cruiser guy that had a Slee arm fail on him in Moab. It was an almost identical failure except it broke behind the rear eye at the axle. So I'm just suggesting periodic inspection of your control arms if you have the Slee arms that aren't the new machined design.

This same person that had the arm break in Moab just found his other arm cracked. His are the ones after the wristed joint was removed. Again, looks like no penetration into the metal.

His wife DD's the truck with 3 kids, so this was a little scary for him. Just another word of caution and encouragement to check your control arms if you have these Slee arms.
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This is one of the cases where you can see that the weld is inadequate just by looking at it. The face of the weld bead should be about 25% wider than the metal it joins and here it is about 1/3. Even if the tube was beveled, the bead would be inadequate. I'm just guessing, but I don't think that a certified welder did this job. It was gluegunning.

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Yeah, there's definitely no fillet in there. I know it's been awhile since Slee made this style of arm, but holy crap that would be dangerous if it broke on the road. Fortunately (I guess) it looks like they're fracturing at the front of the eye so the arm would still hold the axle by the one bolt.
 
Yeah, there's definitely no fillet in there. I know it's been awhile since Slee made this style of arm, but holy crap that would be dangerous if it broke on the road. Fortunately (I guess) it looks like they're fracturing at the front of the eye so the arm would still hold the axle by the one bolt.

Not always, I saw broken arm at CM2006 behind both eye's:eek:
After I saw that I was happy mine broke where it did:rolleyes:
 
That might have been this same guy's other arm that BoxRocket mentioned in his first post. Fortunately then Robbie had a spare arm that got him home.

Re-read #1 and yes it sounds like it could be the same guy....he was on his honeymoon IIRC:popcorn:
 
Not always, I saw broken arm at CM2006 behind both eye's:eek:
After I saw that I was happy mine broke where it did:rolleyes:

There are very few of these arms out there compared to the new ones. I believe we tried to contact all original owners. I think I explained the issues in post 2 in case someone is just scanning the bottom of the thread.

Years ago I broke on on the Shortbus. We went night wheeling at Black Hills CC and I did not know it was broken at the time. The handling felt funny on the road, but we did the round trip (about 20 miles) each way and then the whole trail without me knowing it was broke. Found it out the next day in daylight. Truck wheeled fine with just one arm :)
 
Originally Posted by LandCruiserPhil
Not always, I saw broken arm at CM2006 behind both eye's
After I saw that I was happy mine broke where it did


There are very few of these arms out there compared to the new ones. I believe we tried to contact all original owners. I think I explained the issues in post 2 in case someone is just scanning the bottom of the thread.

Years ago I broke on on the Shortbus. We went night wheeling at Black Hills CC and I did not know it was broken at the time. The handling felt funny on the road, but we did the round trip (about 20 miles) each way and then the whole trail without me knowing it was broke. Found it out the next day in daylight. Truck wheeled fine with just one arm :)

Why quote me?

Reread my posts I never blamed you or your company on anything:meh:

I did say you warned me to keep an eye on the Outback arms after I bought my 80 with the arms:confused:

When my arm broke I never posted it (until know) or called whining about it. I understand the disclaimer "For off Road use only" I just handled it!
 
There are very few of these arms out there compared to the new ones. I believe we tried to contact all original owners. I think I explained the issues in post 2 in case someone is just scanning the bottom of the thread.

Years ago I broke on on the Shortbus. We went night wheeling at Black Hills CC and I did not know it was broken at the time. The handling felt funny on the road, but we did the round trip (about 20 miles) each way and then the whole trail without me knowing it was broke. Found it out the next day in daylight. Truck wheeled fine with just one arm :)

I am one of the guys who have now broken both arms. For the record, they were Slee arms not Outback arms sold by Slee. My first arm broke at Cruise Moab behind the rear axle bushing, so the axle was no longer connected to the arm. My truck was not going anywhere with one arm. Fortunately Robbie came to my rescue, drove up Poison Spider and installed his spare arm on my 80.

The next arm broke in front of the rear bushing. This one looked to be broken for a while and I had not noticed until I was under the truck. I am grateful the arm broke where did because as Trunk Monkey mentioned my wife drives car pool with this truck.

In both cases the issue was a result of poor weld quality. As Cristo pointed out in the 2nd post his new arms are now billet because of these weld quality issues. So he now sells sweet new arms but I am left dealing with the results of the early mistakes.
 
Originally Posted by LandCruiserPhil
Not always, I saw broken arm at CM2006 behind both eye's
After I saw that I was happy mine broke where it did

Why quote me?
Reread my posts I never blamed you or your company on anything:meh:

Sorry, didn't want to imply anything except sharing that I had experience with what happens with the arm when it breaks behind the two bushings. Only reason I quoted that. Nothing else implied or anything. I can edit the post if you want.
 
This is one of the cases where you can see that the weld is inadequate just by looking at it. The face of the weld bead should be about 25% wider than the metal it joins and here it is about 1/3. Even if the tube was beveled, the bead would be inadequate. I'm just guessing, but I don't think that a certified welder did this job. It was gluegunning.

attachment.php

Just for clarity, those were tig welded and not mig. These were done by a certified welded and through a fab shop that we used at the time. One of the reasons it was tigged is the tubing and eyelets are chromeoly and you have to be careful on how the metal is heated. We were assured the welding was adequate, but obviously does not stand the test of time.

This was one of the reasons why we abandoned the welding all together.
 

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