Do you guys feel the upgrade reduces the chances of warping rotors? I have a 2014 LX570. It does not appreciate my wife’s driving style. Our Avalon was okay with it so hoping I can upgrade and eliminate/reduce the issue.
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Probably not, if the driving style doesn’t change.Do you guys feel the upgrade reduces the chances of warping rotors? I have a 2014 LX570. It does not appreciate my wife’s driving style. Our Avalon was okay with it so hoping I can upgrade and eliminate/reduce the issue.
Hawk LTS. Good stopping power, but a little dusty. Talking about what are the best pads can quickly resemble talking about politics or religionWhat pads are you running now?
A sticky piston in one of the calipers can cause premature rotor warping. Try to push the pads all the way back and away from the rotors. If one of the pistons is a little stubborn and doesn’t want to go back into the caliper, you may have found root cause of the warped rotors. It’s been said many times before but I’ll repeat it: factory discs are very good and surprisingly affordable.Probably not, if the driving style doesn’t change.
And obviously pump the brakes a few times after you’re done checking the caliper pistons to push the pads back into the rotors before you drive the truck again… or else the pedal will go all the way to the floor with no slowing down on the first stop when pulling out of the garage.A sticky piston in one of the calipers can cause premature rotor warping. Try to push the pads all the way back and away from the rotors. If one of the pistons is a little stubborn and doesn’t want to go back into the caliper, you may have found root cause of the warped rotors. It’s been said many times before but I’ll repeat it: factory discs are very good and surprisingly affordable.
I agree completely on factory rotors but many people report brake pulsation due to uneven deposits (technically not rotor warp) on this platform, including vehicles that are way too new to have sticking pistons.A sticky piston in one of the calipers can cause premature rotor warping. Try to push the pads all the way back and away from the rotors. If one of the pistons is a little stubborn and doesn’t want to go back into the caliper, you may have found root cause of the warped rotors. It’s been said many times before but I’ll repeat it: factory discs are very good and surprisingly affordable.
Do you guys feel the upgrade reduces the chances of warping rotors? I have a 2014 LX570. It does not appreciate my wife’s driving style. Our Avalon was okay with it so hoping I can upgrade and eliminate/reduce the issue.
I just hate the idea of modding oem for future owners. I really like driving this lx, so I guess as long as I can afford gas; it’s not an issue
Search for "blunt 14g needle" on amazon, look for the 10" version. Then get a handful of 60mL syringes.Is there a trick?
Good to know, old previous owner of mine put these dumb slotted rotors on that I want to get rid of, I don’t want the rotors to warp later or something stupid. I think I’ll stick all OEM.
I don’t actually know if it’s oem pads now so it could get better with those.
Sounds good, I'll give it a trySearch for "blunt 14g needle" on amazon, look for the 10" version. Then get a handful of 60mL syringes.
The needle is long enough that it provides some drag to the fluid and takes long to fill. If you are careful you can cut them down some while avoiding crimping to reduce the drag and really help how quickly it can draw fluid.
I dont see how an LC brakes would ever get hot enough to need drilled and slotted rotors. I sure hope yall arent racing them around lol.Drilled and/or slotted rotors OF GOOD QUALITY help tremendously.
Some intraweb keyboard warriors immediately crap and poo on drilled and slotted rotors, "they are going to crack, warp, youre gonna die, etc.."
Almost every high end sports car has them stock, they work...
I've ran the DBA rotors with LTS pads on 4 different rigs, include the Race 80 series, and have nothing but amazing praise. Pads are a tad dusty, but they have close to zero fade, and last forever.
The last set of my VERY overweight 2014 Tundra and camper looked almost new at 50k.
I am currently still looking for a 200, and DBA rotors and LTS pads will be the first thing i do when i baseline it.
Now yes, if you get $50 drilled and slotted rotors from autozone, youre likely to have a bad time.
My .02
Nothing gets hot enough on the street to need them however.
I cooked my stock LX570 brakes that were fairly new on a roadtrip with a very long downhill decent. Then again on another set while towing in heavy traffic a year later. 2016+ brakes are much better on the LC/LX. The 2008-2015 brakes are fine for daily driving unloaded. But add load + repeated braking and you quickly heat the brakes and experience brake fade.I dont see how an LC brakes would ever get hot enough to need drilled and slotted rotors. I sure hope yall arent racing them around lol.
Edit to add that I was the person that spent big money to add slotted rotors to my car... because I actually took it on the track. Nothing gets hot enough on the street to need them however.
Same. Cooked mine in WNC mountains while engine braking and riding the brakes (probably my fault). Swapping to DBA rotors and pads with 2016+ equipment up front.I cooked my stock LX570 brakes that were fairly new on a roadtrip with a very long downhill decent. Then again on another set while towing in heavy traffic a year later. 2016+ brakes are much better on the LC/LX. The 2008-2015 brakes are fine for daily driving unloaded. But add load + repeated braking and you quickly heat the brakes and experience brake fade.
I dont see how an LC brakes would ever get hot enough to need drilled and slotted rotors. I sure hope yall arent racing them around lol.
Edit to add that I was the person that spent big money to add slotted rotors to my car... because I actually took it on the track. Nothing gets hot enough on the street to need them however.