Brakes upgrade question, flame away (1 Viewer)

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I went with 2017 Tundra brakes up front. Used calipers off eBay. New pads and hardware. Such a great mod. I had a hiccup during install…I could not for the life of me get the caliper mounting holes reamed out. I had started the job with a carbide tipped bit from Home Depot. It was not up to the task. A proper reamer bit and some cutting oil made quick work of the job. Bled out old brake fluid and put new pads on the rear while I was at it. This thing stops so much better now. And it’s all OEM Toyota parts.
 
I dont see how an LC brakes would ever get hot enough to need drilled and slotted rotors. I sure hope yall arent racing them around lol.

Edit to add that I was the person that spent big money to add slotted rotors to my car... because I actually took it on the track. Nothing gets hot enough on the street to need them however.

My 2014 Tundra (slightly larger brakes than 200) with camper shell, and 500lbs of "stuff" ate OEM rotors every 20k-ish and warped BAD.

After DBA upgrade, zero issues in 50-55k miles.

NOTE: The new DBAs are slotted only, not drilled, but ive used both without issues.

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My 2014 Tundra (slightly larger brakes than 200) with camper shell, and 500lbs of "stuff" ate OEM rotors every 20k-ish and warped BAD.

After DBA upgrade, zero issues in 50-55k miles.

NOTE: The new DBAs are slotted only, not drilled, but ive used both without issues.
I just kinda think this has to do more with the pad compound than the rotor.
 
The brakes, rotors and hoses are done. It's still in the shop with the electrical upgrades. It's hopefully all done tomorrow.
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The lines are a good idea, I have an 08 so seems worth it for preventative maintenance.
 
The lines are a good idea, I have an 08 so seems worth it for preventative maintenance.
Overall braking is very smooth, just as smooth as before the upgrade, except when you're almost completely stopped. All I have been able to notice so far is a difference when you get down to the last wheel rpms. Pre upgrade it would have slowly stopped, imperceptibly. Now it grabs and you're STOPPED. It's not jerky or unpleasant but it grabs a bit and again, only when you're almost completely stopped anyway. I will probably learn to eliminate that over time. I haven't had any panic stops from a higher speed to report on brake fade. So far very happy.
 
Maybe an unladen stock rig, but when putting these things to work with big tires, mods, and big payload / towing weights, I can assure you that the brakes do get a workout. Even stock at 6k lbs curb weight and 400HP, honestly it's not hard to put heat in the brakes on downhill descents if pushing harder, but that's more driving style. When laden, it gets your attention when coming down an 8%+ extended grade, dipping into the stock brakes, and needing to increase pedal pressure as the pads heat up. Sounds like you've been on race pads, as have I, and it's a different level of confidence with pads that can take the heat.

My happy place is 2016+ sized OEM rotors with Hawk LTS pads. Brakes are strong enough to manage 35s with stock pedal pressure. Well mannered, with high heat capacity, even under punishment. The LTS compound can be squeaky when cold, have medium dust, but are otherwise great pads, easy to modulate (don't underestimate this as many performance pads can be hard to modulate especially off-road), with consistent friction under cold temps and wet.

For those with 6-speeds and oversized tires and heavy loads, re-gearing can do wonders in regards to engine braking. A world of difference and safety.
I think this is the right move 👍
 
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Very happy with my full DBA upgrade using 2016+ gear up front. To me this is how the truck should feel/brake from the factory. Have not towed or been fully laden yet but based on some tests coming off the interstate there is more than enough stopping power which should get me more life out of these than what I got with OEM equipment.
 
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Very happy with my full DBA upgrade using 2016+ gear up front. To me this is how the truck should feel/brake from the factory. Have not towed or been fully laden yet but based on some tests coming off the interstate there is more than enough stopping power which should get me more life out of these than what I got with OEM equipment.

Glad ya like em!

About to order mine soon. 👍🏼
 
Slightly off topic but I’m thinking you all might be the right folks to ask. Wife has a 2016 570, factory pads and they squeal all the time in parking lots and at low speeds, plenty of life left. I’m looking at going Akebono pads and OEM rotors. Don’t need anything crazy as she does not off road, but looking for the best setup for longevity and also quiet the front brakes down, thoughts? I’ve been told Toyota rotors are the best for normal daily applications, if there might be a better options such as Centric I am open to suggestions! Thanks in advance.
 
Slightly off topic but I’m thinking you all might be the right folks to ask. Wife has a 2016 570, factory pads and they squeal all the time in parking lots and at low speeds, plenty of life left. I’m looking at going Akebono pads and OEM rotors. Don’t need anything crazy as she does not off road, but looking for the best setup for longevity and also quiet the front brakes down, thoughts? I’ve been told Toyota rotors are the best for normal daily applications, if there might be a better options such as Centric I am open to suggestions! Thanks in advance.

Very few people I know that have been around a long time and work their trucks will claim Toyota has ever made a “good rotor”

I’m a very huge fan and advocate of OEM whenever possible. Rotors aren’t one of them.

I know people will chime in they have X miles on their OEM rotors and they’re fine, and that’s their opinion.

Brakes have always been Toyotas Achilles heel.

I’m a DBA guy, and will always be a DBA guy

Just my .02
 
Lots and lots of people here use Genuine Toyota rotors with great results, and yes, working hard. I was able to get a set of factory pads to disintegrate from heat in the mountains, but while the rotors had some odd discoloration from the pad meltdown they still performed great with new pads.

Factory pads squealing is not a common complaint. I’d consider throwing another set on and see if the problem persists.
 
Slightly off topic but I’m thinking you all might be the right folks to ask. Wife has a 2016 570, factory pads and they squeal all the time in parking lots and at low speeds, plenty of life left. I’m looking at going Akebono pads and OEM rotors. Don’t need anything crazy as she does not off road, but looking for the best setup for longevity and also quiet the front brakes down, thoughts? I’ve been told Toyota rotors are the best for normal daily applications, if there might be a better options such as Centric I am open to suggestions! Thanks in advance.

Factory pads should be making 0 noise. Are you sure its oem? Are the shims installed? Is there grease?


As for people on the fence regarding upsize.
The 200 series brakes are poorly designed and have a heat management issue. It has nothing to do with how someone drives. They were undersized to begin with, and the later years are just acceptable. You should absolutely try and put in the larger discs if you are so inclined.

200 is predisposed to “warping” brakes bc they are constantly overheated and then used normally in traffic. Brakes are way too small for a vehicle this size and weight. 7,000 lbs …
Of all the oversized parts on the truck the brakes are not one of them. Only truck with worse brakes is the GX 460, abysmal.

I would recommend OEM rotors, and pads based on usage.
 

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