Brakes upgrade question, flame away (6 Viewers)

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Bought a 2008 lx570 recently. 230,000 miles , runs good,clean. A few dents and dings. Doing a few maintenance things. Bought 5 liters ahc fluid( still need to flush), replaced rear lift gate struts, got 5 new tpms sensors, did the ranger method on power steering fluid., going to change all the diff fluids. Brakes are not good. Soft pedal,not smooth( maybe warped rotors vs sticking caliper piston) no pull though. Planning on flushing and new pads, rotors, rebuild calipers and brake lines if needed. I have read about the tundra conversion, but have also read that the newer lx570 brakes are improved over my generation? I haven't done an exhaustive parts search , but I thought replacement brake parts spanned all the lx570? I'm not planning on towing heavy and I bet 30,000 miles would get me 3 years of life easy. Is there an improvement with the materials of the newer lx570 brakes? Will they fit my 08? Not crazy about adding custom parts.
thanks in advance
Tom
 
16+ LC/LX front brakes are larger, the same diameter as tundras from 2007 on.
Rears are the same across all years of 200, though 16+ LX got an electric motor to engage the parking brake. All actual brake parts are the same.


Tundra rotor and caliper swap, no mods to knuckle, must assemble custom brake lines


Swap using 2016+ rotor and caliper, easy mods to knuckle for larger caliper bolts, none to brake line


The original thread that got everyone thinking about this.

 
16+ LC/LX front brakes are larger, the same diameter as tundras from 2007 on.
Rears are the same across all years of 200, though 16+ LX got an electric motor to engage the parking brake. All actual brake parts are the same.


Tundra rotor and caliper swap, no mods to knuckle, must assemble custom brake lines


Swap using 2016+ rotor and caliper, easy mods to knuckle for larger caliper bolts, none to brake line


The original thread that got everyone thinking about this.

m

16+ LC/LX front brakes are larger, the same diameter as tundras from 2007 on.
Rears are the same across all years of 200, though 16+ LX got an electric motor to engage the parking brake. All actual brake parts are the same.


Tundra rotor and caliper swap, no mods to knuckle, must assemble custom brake lines


Swap using 2016+ rotor and caliper, easy mods to knuckle for larger caliper bolts, none to brake line


The original thread that got everyone thinking about this.

Thanks for the fast replies. I think I read about 16 up upgrade, but couldn’t seem to find it again. I’ll follow that path
 
Are the OEM pads the best ones? Anyone tried a more aggressive pad? About to replace mine and stopping in these things is kinda a suggestion lol

Edit: just a side note, want to make sure everyone remembers that bigger brakes do not make you stop quicker 👍
 
Are the OEM pads the best ones? Anyone tried a more aggressive pad? About to replace mine and stopping in these things is kinda a suggestion lol

Edit: just a side note, want to make sure everyone remembers that bigger brakes do not make you stop quicker 👍
Obviously, I’m not an expert since I posed the initial post on this thread. From what I’ve read following the links about the brake upgrades whether tundra/ sequoia/ 2016 up lx570 ; the rotor diameter is around a centimeter or so bigger than the older lx570’s . It’s been a long, long time since I’ve had a physics class or really used that in my career. I have also read that the oem pads are bigger on the tundra/ sequoia calipers, but the lx570 pads would fit the tundra etc calipers. It makes sense to me that the bigger surface area of the pads would make better stopping power. I’m not sure which way dimensionally the pads are larger, if they extended farther out towards the edge of the larger rotor it also makes sense to me that the braking power would be greater. Do not ask me to write an equation. I am honestly not sure what direction I am going with my brakes. Quite possible that I will go back to oem, since I don’t plan on big tires or towing
 
Like tires, brake pads often are a giant balance/tradeoff of compromises.

Unless you've got big tires that need more brake torque, or are extra heavy/towing and require high temperature handling, I would generally recommend OEM pads. They generally walk the best balance of noise, dust, cold/hot friction, easy on rotors, resistance against uneven pad deposits, easy modulation, etc.
 
Like tires, brake pads often are a giant balance/tradeoff of compromises.

Unless you've got big tires that need more brake torque, or are extra heavy/towing and require high temperature handling, I would generally recommend OEM pads. They generally walk the best balance of noise, dust, cold/hot friction, easy on rotors, resistance against uneven pad deposits, easy modulation, etc.

I fully agree with that. I tried some Stoptech pads and while it felt like they had a bit more "bite" , they quickly started to stick and squeak for a few seconds every time I drove the truck after it was parked for a few hours. My rotors also started to shake a bit on downhill breaking. Back to new OEM pads and rotors and everything is fine. For the price of OEM, even if you tow a lot and go through a set of pads and rotors every 70k, it's worth it.
 
Obviously, I’m not an expert since I posed the initial post on this thread. From what I’ve read following the links about the brake upgrades whether tundra/ sequoia/ 2016 up lx570 ; the rotor diameter is around a centimeter or so bigger than the older lx570’s . It’s been a long, long time since I’ve had a physics class or really used that in my career. I have also read that the oem pads are bigger on the tundra/ sequoia calipers, but the lx570 pads would fit the tundra etc calipers. It makes sense to me that the bigger surface area of the pads would make better stopping power. I’m not sure which way dimensionally the pads are larger, if they extended farther out towards the edge of the larger rotor it also makes sense to me that the braking power would be greater. Do not ask me to write an equation. I am honestly not sure what direction I am going with my brakes. Quite possible that I will go back to oem, since I don’t plan on big tires or towing
The brake pads themselves are essentially the same. The caliper is different and the rotor is 14mm larger. The primary difference with the caliper is it spaces the pad out to the edge of the larger rotor.
 
Can the larger 16+ brakes still work with 17’s?
Depends on the wheel specifically. Rock warriors clear (I had them), I seem to remember Icon 17s working.. basically you'd need to do your research into the specific model.
 
Obviously, I’m not an expert since I posed the initial post on this thread. From what I’ve read following the links about the brake upgrades whether tundra/ sequoia/ 2016 up lx570 ; the rotor diameter is around a centimeter or so bigger than the older lx570’s . It’s been a long, long time since I’ve had a physics class or really used that in my career. I have also read that the oem pads are bigger on the tundra/ sequoia calipers, but the lx570 pads would fit the tundra etc calipers. It makes sense to me that the bigger surface area of the pads would make better stopping power. I’m not sure which way dimensionally the pads are larger, if they extended farther out towards the edge of the larger rotor it also makes sense to me that the braking power would be greater. Do not ask me to write an equation. I am honestly not sure what direction I am going with my brakes. Quite possible that I will go back to oem, since I don’t plan on big tires or towing
The larger surface area will allow for better heat dissipation, allowing for longer stable performance over long and or heavy driving. IE less brake fade. However that doesn’t lead to greater stopping force.

I don’t have the video at hand, but this info is from the Car Care Nut.
 
I fully agree with that. I tried some Stoptech pads and while it felt like they had a bit more "bite" , they quickly started to stick and squeak for a few seconds every time I drove the truck after it was parked for a few hours. My rotors also started to shake a bit on downhill breaking. Back to new OEM pads and rotors and everything is fine. For the price of OEM, even if you tow a lot and go through a set of pads and rotors every 70k, it's worth it.
Good to know, old previous owner of mine put these dumb slotted rotors on that I want to get rid of, I don’t want the rotors to warp later or something stupid. I think I’ll stick all OEM.

I don’t actually know if it’s oem pads now so it could get better with those.
 
Obviously, I’m not an expert since I posed the initial post on this thread. From what I’ve read following the links about the brake upgrades whether tundra/ sequoia/ 2016 up lx570 ; the rotor diameter is around a centimeter or so bigger than the older lx570’s . It’s been a long, long time since I’ve had a physics class or really used that in my career. I have also read that the oem pads are bigger on the tundra/ sequoia calipers, but the lx570 pads would fit the tundra etc calipers. It makes sense to me that the bigger surface area of the pads would make better stopping power. I’m not sure which way dimensionally the pads are larger, if they extended farther out towards the edge of the larger rotor it also makes sense to me that the braking power would be greater. Do not ask me to write an equation. I am honestly not sure what direction I am going with my brakes. Quite possible that I will go back to oem, since I don’t plan on big tires or towing
The later or tundra calipers are essentially the same, but with longer mounting ears so they sit a little further away from the hub. They take the same pads.

I’m personally not a big fan of the factory pads; I’ll gladly live with some more brake dust and a little bit of occasional squealing as long as I have more stopping power and don’t fade at higher temperatures. While you’re at it, swap in some stainless steel braided brake lines.
 
The later or tundra calipers are essentially the same, but with longer mounting ears so they sit a little further away from the hub. They take the same pads.

I’m personally not a big fan of the factory pads; I’ll gladly live with some more brake dust and a little bit of occasional squealing as long as I have more stopping power and don’t fade at higher temperatures. While you’re at it, swap in some stainless steel braided brake lines.
What pads are you running now?
 
The later or tundra calipers are essentially the same, but with longer mounting ears so they sit a little further away from the hub. They take the same pads.

I’m personally not a big fan of the factory pads; I’ll gladly live with some more brake dust and a little bit of occasional squealing as long as I have more stopping power and don’t fade at higher temperatures. While you’re at it, swap in some stainless steel braided brake lines.

To take it a little further, 2016 + got the longer mounting ears but also went up to M14 hardware vs the M12 of 08-15 LC/LX and Tundra parts. Tundra did eventually increase the hardware size but not until 2018 or something.
 
To take it a little further, 2016 + got the longer mounting ears but also went up to M14 hardware vs the M12 of 08-15 LC/LX and Tundra parts. Tundra did eventually increase the hardware size but not until 2018

To take it a little further, 2016 + got the longer mounting ears but also went up to M14 hardware vs the M12 of 08-15 LC/LX and Tundra parts. Tundra did eventually increase the hardware size but not until 2018 or something.
Again showing my ignorance, since I haven’t even looked at my brakes; but would there be a way to fit a bushing in the calipers on the 2016 up calipers instead of drilling the knuckles? That would be a really thin bushing
 
Again showing my ignorance, since I haven’t even looked at my brakes; but would there be a way to fit a bushing in the calipers on the 2016 up calipers instead of drilling the knuckles? That would be a really thin bushing
The bolt threads into the caliper, so you’d be looking at tapping it anyway to fit a thread-sert, and I think it’s safe to say something that complex on a safety critical system would be a bad idea.

Drilling out the knuckle is very, very easy. Some people have posted having issues with it but that’s before we developed the step-bit method, which takes about 30 seconds per hole.

See the above linked thread for fitting 16+ parts for pictures, video, and details on the job.
 
Honestly if you just replace your pads and rotors you may find it's a significant improvement, especially if you go to HD pads (and OK with the extra groaning noise at super low speed). It's very likely the pads were swapped without a rotor swap. I had HD pads and they were low and recently I went to a new set of ceramics without swapping rotors. Braking is solid but it was "stickier" before when the original HD pads were new. So it's either the HD pads or the slightly worn rotors which make it feel stock to me now (as opposed to how it was before).

FWIW I went with ceramic pads this time because oh man the dust and groaning noises from the HD ones...
 
The bolt threads into the caliper, so you’d be looking at tapping it anyway to fit a thread-sert, and I think it’s safe to say something that complex on a safety critical system would be a bad idea.

Drilling out the knuckle is very, very easy. Some people have posted having issues with it but that’s before we developed the step-bit method, which takes about 30 seconds per hole.

See the above linked thread for fitting 16+ parts for pictures, video, and details on the job.
Yeah I was thinking backwards for some reason ( caliper to knuckle), even though I’ve seen the video. I just hate the idea of modding oem for future owners. I really like driving this lx, so I guess as long as I can afford gas; it’s not an issue
 

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