TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
First I would like to thank Brian Jowett (@bjowett ) for figuring out that this is possible and providing some of the parts at a better cost than available anywhere else.
Second I want to thank Camelback Toyota and their parts department. They have gone above and beyond looking over parts drawings trying to come up with the correct part numbers for the hard lines and mounting brackets.
Like most of us, I was surprised by the way the brakes feel on our trucks. They work. But it is not linear and definatly not confidence inspiring when towing a trailer.
Having come from a Tundra as my previous vehicle, and installing the Tundra IFS, adding bigger brakes seemed like a logical thing to do to help stop the truck better.
Here is the parts list I used:
Driver’s side (LH)
Tundra Dust shield 47703-0c031
Tundra caliper 477500C030
Tundra Hard line 47314-35330
Line bracket on order, will get part number Friday
Rotor stop tech 126.44156sl
Passenger side (RH)
Tundra Dust shield 47704-0c031
Tundra caliper 477300c030
Tundra Hard line 47316-35250
Line bracket on order
Rotor stop tech 126.44156sr
Stainless brake line kit stop tech 950.44023
Pads Centric HD
Tools:
Jack, Jack stands, wheel chocks
17 mm wrench, crows foot, socket
Pliers, small prybar, screwdriver, hammer, 39mm 12pt socket, big @$$ breaker bar
Big torque wrench (up to 250 ft/lbs.)
8mm wrench, 10mm line wrench, 19mm line wrench, 12 mm wrench/socket,
Wheel bearing grease, brake cleaner, dust free rags, safety goggles/face shield
Installation:
Jack up front of vehicle, place on jack stands and remove wheels.
Remove the calipers by taking off the 17mm bolts. Place the caliper on/between the steering knuckle and the spring. Remove the rotors. (May need to use two small bolts to push disk off of hub.)
Use prybar/putty knife/ screwdriver to remove hub dust cap.
Remove cotter pin
Use 39mm 12Pt socket and big breaker bar to remove axle retaining nut.
Loosen the 4 17mm bolts that hold the hub bearing to the steering knuckle. I used a wrench and dead blow hammer.
Here’s where I got creative….having installed the tundra suspension, I knew what a pain it was getting the CV shaft out of the hub. My solution, take one lug nut and partially install it. Use a small piece of scrap metal, bar stock, tubing, or angle iron and a “C” clamp to make a press to push the axle back out of the hub.
Looks hokey, but works like a champ!
Second I want to thank Camelback Toyota and their parts department. They have gone above and beyond looking over parts drawings trying to come up with the correct part numbers for the hard lines and mounting brackets.
Like most of us, I was surprised by the way the brakes feel on our trucks. They work. But it is not linear and definatly not confidence inspiring when towing a trailer.
Having come from a Tundra as my previous vehicle, and installing the Tundra IFS, adding bigger brakes seemed like a logical thing to do to help stop the truck better.
Here is the parts list I used:
Driver’s side (LH)
Tundra Dust shield 47703-0c031
Tundra caliper 477500C030
Tundra Hard line 47314-35330
Line bracket on order, will get part number Friday
Rotor stop tech 126.44156sl
Passenger side (RH)
Tundra Dust shield 47704-0c031
Tundra caliper 477300c030
Tundra Hard line 47316-35250
Line bracket on order
Rotor stop tech 126.44156sr
Stainless brake line kit stop tech 950.44023
Pads Centric HD
Tools:
Jack, Jack stands, wheel chocks
17 mm wrench, crows foot, socket
Pliers, small prybar, screwdriver, hammer, 39mm 12pt socket, big @$$ breaker bar
Big torque wrench (up to 250 ft/lbs.)
8mm wrench, 10mm line wrench, 19mm line wrench, 12 mm wrench/socket,
Wheel bearing grease, brake cleaner, dust free rags, safety goggles/face shield
Installation:
Jack up front of vehicle, place on jack stands and remove wheels.
Remove the calipers by taking off the 17mm bolts. Place the caliper on/between the steering knuckle and the spring. Remove the rotors. (May need to use two small bolts to push disk off of hub.)
Use prybar/putty knife/ screwdriver to remove hub dust cap.
Remove cotter pin
Use 39mm 12Pt socket and big breaker bar to remove axle retaining nut.
Loosen the 4 17mm bolts that hold the hub bearing to the steering knuckle. I used a wrench and dead blow hammer.
Here’s where I got creative….having installed the tundra suspension, I knew what a pain it was getting the CV shaft out of the hub. My solution, take one lug nut and partially install it. Use a small piece of scrap metal, bar stock, tubing, or angle iron and a “C” clamp to make a press to push the axle back out of the hub.
Looks hokey, but works like a champ!