Brake system flush (1 Viewer)

[Dannyboy lx470]

Hi guys when you get the old fluid out from the brake fluid box and add new fluid is it necessarily to bleed the brakes ??.

 

[Sandroad]

Hi guys when you get the old fluid out from the brake fluid box and add new fluid is it necessarily to bleed the brakes ??.

If your goal is to get fresh brake fluid in the system then you have to bleed the brakes with a full system flush. Just putting new fluid in the reservoir under the hood does nothing for the rest of the system.

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

If your goal is to get fresh brake fluid in the system then you have to bleed the brakes with a full system flush. Just putting new fluid in the reservoir under the hood does nothing for the rest of the system.

Ok thankyou.

 

[PADDO]

Pm'ed you the FSM procedure.

 

[Snowrydr01]

sub'd

 

[planomateo]

sub'd

In case you didn't know, you can do that w/o posting.

 

[BullElk]

I have never changed or flushed brake fluid in any of my Lexii. How many more miles of good braking could I get if I do a brake fluid flush. OCD maintenance is expensive and overrated.

 

[ZackR]

I'd recommend a brake fluid flush every two years at a minimum. If you do your own work its only around $25, including the brake fluid and one man bleeder. I replace the fluid in my FZJ80 and both BMW's once a year.

 

[Drogon]

So does the break system require 6 12oz bottles of break fluid to bleed/flush?

 

[ZackR]

So does the break system require 6 12oz bottles of break fluid to bleed/flush?

I use two 32oz bottles. One is usually enough for a annual flush but I have another on hand just in case. Only use new brake fluid from a sealed bottle, don't save the old stuff.

 

[084runnerltd]

I know this thread is old, but was getting ready to bleed my brakes and read this post.

Is there something different with the 100 series that you start with the left front wheel as you indicated in step 3.

I have never heard of this? Always have been told to start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer to closer to it???

As an update to those unfamiliar with brake bleeding process on the hundy's the FSM can be a little confusing so going to try to break it down a little.

1. Use a handheld vacuum pump and remove as much of the fluid from the reservoir as you can. If you have a thin tube you can work it forward and get the fluid down to about half an inch left. Ideally you would get it all out first but unless your removing the whole assembly not really possible with this setup. Then fill back up to the max line and put the cap on. Be sure as you bleed each section your are keeping on eye on the level and adding as necessary.

2. If the fluid has gotten low enough that air is in the lines or you have replaced/rebuilt/etc the booster pump and accumulator the first thing you do is bleed that part of the system. This is accomplished by the first turning the vehicle off and pumping the brake pedal 40-50 times. You will feel it get very soft and can push it to the floor with little resistance. Then turn the vehicle on and time how long the booster pump runs. You're looking for a 30-40 second time frame. If it takes longer than that then do the cycle again.

3. If you have the hand held tester or abs actuator tool then use them to follow the flush procedure. But since most of us don't have one - get an assistant (buddy or one of your kids - my ten year old thinks she is pretty cool helping out). Turn key to on without the engine running, put assistant in the drivers seat, and have them press the brake pedal three times holding it down on the third time.

3. Starting with front left wheel, get brake bleeding line with clear tubing on the bleeder valve and into a container. You can do this without removing the wheel as long as your bleeder valves are reasonably torqued from prior work. With pedal held down crack open the bleeder valve. Fluid should run for 2-3 seconds then should stop. Close the bleeder valve and have assistant pump the pedal three more times holding down on the last and do it again. Repeat until no more air bubbles or fluid runs clear/clean. Follow same procedure for front right, then the rears. The ABS and brake lights may come on during this cycle - as long as you keep the fluid in the reservoir about the min line it will clear

4. Next is to force the abs valves to work. Again if you have the toyota tools they do it for you. But if you don't then you go find some dirt, get a little speed and romp on the brakes. Do this a couple times, then go bleed all four corners again then same way. This second time you shouldn't have to open the bleeder valves more than 2-3 times per wheel.

That's it - you have flushed the brake lines. If you have done this correctly and still have a soft/mushy pedal than time to either rebuild the master cylinder or get ready for the large hit on the wallet and order the new assembly.

Happy wheeling - Scott

 

[ADVR9T]

I just received a few bottles of brake fluid for the brake fluid flush i'm about to complete... Has Toyota changed the formulation or just the label of the 00475-1BF03 fluid?

To confirm, the bottles list the same part number but the previous bottle I have lists Polyalkylene Glycol Ethers and the new bottle lists Diethylene Glycol and Polyalkylene Ethers.

Toyota Brake Fluid

• ADVR9T
• Sep 20, 2018

Same part numbers; has the composition changed or just the way it's labeled?

Toyota Brake Fluid

• ADVR9T
• Sep 20, 2018

Same part numbers; has the composition changed or just the way it's labeled?

 

[abuck99]

Bottle on the right is current. I have seen the one on the left. Prob just the label changed, not the formula.

 

[MuseChaser]

I know this thread is old, but was getting ready to bleed my brakes and read this post.

Is there something different with the 100 series that you start with the left front wheel as you indicated in step 3.

I have never heard of this? Always have been told to start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer to closer to it???

I had the same question. Is anyone willing and able to answer this? Very curious..

 

[looking4lc]

now is this a correct method to do a complete flush?

 

[slacker24-7]

now is this a correct method to do a complete flush?

No, I believe I’d go with this , not the best video but to at least see how the system works

 

[tjb]

No, I believe I’d go with this , not the best video but to at least see how the system works

Good video, but a note from the FSM:

 

[snowglobe]

I’m looking into which brake fluid to get. Any preference for Toyota brake fluid over alternatives? E.g., I use Toyota coolant but not Toyota motor oil.
I’ve been told that the original Toyota fluid which comes with the vehicles from the factory is great but isn’t available in the States.

 

[badlander]

I had the same question. Is anyone willing and able to answer this? Very curious..

Yes, the 100 is different from conventional 2 wheel drive vehicles. In a regular car or truck, at least those that most of us older guys have worked on, there are 2 lines coming from the master cylinder, one for the front brakes and one for the rear. Each of those then split up for each front or rear wheel pair. That's why you wanted to bleed the farthest first, to get the old fluid all the way to the end and then out. The next one closer then already had new fluid staged at the junction so less chance of contamination from old fluid left in the lines.
The 100 has 4 lines coming from the master cylinder because the brake system needs to be able to activate each wheel individually because of the Atrac system. Personally, I don't see why it makes any difference which wheel you start with, they are completely independant of each other. Maybe if you are using the Toyota computer software it matters because that's the order in which the program runs it........

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

Did anyone figure out if Techstream could be used to actuate the ABS pump to flush/bleed the brakes and pump?