Yeah no where in (my) 2004 FSM does it indicate replacing the caliper mounting bolts- or using thread locker. However common sense prevails: use thread locker on used bolts and replace bolts if threads are worn or galled.
Brake Caliper mounting bolts! Replace them when removed. Alert Alert Alert (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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Not saying what you should do, just what I have done.
Bought my 2000 with 120k on it in 2008. Now have 230K. I have had the front calipers off at least 10 times.
Caliper rebuild, pads, CV rebuilds & replacement, diff lockers and later regear, bearing repacks, etc.
Have original caliper bolts, use blue Loctite and double check the torque, have never had them loosen up.
Lots of offroad and major washboard every year.
Manual says reusable, Toyota designed most components in LC to go at least 1/2 million miles, figure they would flag them if they wouldn't go the distance.
Now if you think at one time Bubba put them on with an impact instead of a torque wrench, might want to replace them.
The rear caliper slides on the other hand I have replaced, need to check those every time that they freely slide.
Bought my 2000 with 120k on it in 2008. Now have 230K. I have had the front calipers off at least 10 times.
Caliper rebuild, pads, CV rebuilds & replacement, diff lockers and later regear, bearing repacks, etc.
Have original caliper bolts, use blue Loctite and double check the torque, have never had them loosen up.
Lots of offroad and major washboard every year.
Manual says reusable, Toyota designed most components in LC to go at least 1/2 million miles, figure they would flag them if they wouldn't go the distance.
Now if you think at one time Bubba put them on with an impact instead of a torque wrench, might want to replace them.
The rear caliper slides on the other hand I have replaced, need to check those every time that they freely slide.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Blue loctite
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
i’d put 242 in my coffee iF it tasted better
So there's a Red toyota loctite material (rear control arm nuts for example) on some new bolts, are these green coated ones a different strength loctites too (pic from differential support arm's mounting bolts)?
If you're reusing bolts what will be the appropriate strength loctite to apply on these?
If you're reusing bolts what will be the appropriate strength loctite to apply on these?
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
That looks like packing grease, not thread locker, it's up on the head too. Use blue for something that you want to unbolt again, red for something you don't.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Toyota also recommends cleaning the old red thread sealant on the tie rod to knuckle screws with toluene in my '99 LC FSM, before reapplying the new sealant.
Agree- thanks thats good point to bring up for on-lookers- best practice is to clean off old thread lock before applying new.
Yep blue thread locker for caliper bolts and red for tje tierod mounts. FSM recommends new bolts for calipers and remember to torque them to the correct soecs
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Interesting conversion chart there!
Do you think the “green coat” on that front diff support bolt is actually Toyota threadlocker blue?
I’ve seen only red threadlocker coats and these green looking coats on new bolts from Mr T so far.
fjc-man
SILVER Star
This is one example of torque seal / witness paint. Run a bead across the torqued fastener and when working in that area, or doing routine inspections you can tell at a glance if there has been any movement.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
It is Toyota’s internally manufactured equivalent to Loctite 242 Blue. There’s a multi-page thread about this in the 80 series forum from Toyota pre-applying the green thread sealant to new steering knuckle studs.
***It is NOT Loctite 638 or 690 Green!!!***
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #57
It actually happens more often than people think. I've heard of many, that have falling out. Are they all because of forgetting to torque in, perhaps! But if so, then why did Toyota change recommendation in the 200 series. The 200 series caliper bolt are the same, except they're pre-coated w/sealant. 200 series FSM as "none reusable" and torque is reduce to 73ft-lbf form 90ft-lbf. in front caliper of none coated (100 series) bolt.
So either Toyota feels they do get stretched during torque and or need locking in due to walking out. Or Toyota is hurting so much for cash, they need to sell us ~$10 more in brake service parts.
2010 FSM.
Two things to keep in mind, if adding thread locker to caliper bolts.
- Never use red (permanent thread locker) on caliper bolts. I've busted both 3/8" and 1/2" inch drive 17mm 6 point sockets, on them when red used. I now use 3/4" drive impact socket, on 3/4" breaker bar!
- Reduce torque by ~20%, when caliper bolt threads lubed. Which thread sealant, is a lube.
BTW: the 98-99 had a separate washer. used with bolt, which was a longer bolt. That bolt was replaced in 2000 without washer, just fixed hat (washer). Newer bolt can be used on all (98-07), but do not add washer to the newer bolt.
Semi off-topic but it's still on vibration/movement/thermal cycling induced backing out of bolts matter, I retorqued the new front diff side arm with blue loctite this time to replace the factory green thread sealer out of an abundance of caution.
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Adding to the case count. This happened to me last weekend on front passenger side! Maybe will link this post to the CV reboot thread since I removed the brakes to do that job.
Replaced all 4 bolts, added blue loctite, and torqued to spec (91 ft lbs)
Replaced all 4 bolts, added blue loctite, and torqued to spec (91 ft lbs)
Thank you for posting the additional info.
