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- Winter Park, Florida
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- www.cruisermatts.com
that'll do it
Bragging rights over. 3FE quit and won't restart (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spook50
- Start date
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John McVicker
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #64
That was my first consideration, but I've never had rodent problems beyond squirrels digging in my lawn, plus the loom and tape around the break weren't chewed up at all. It had to have gotten tweaked at some point or something. Either way, it's gettin fixed this weekend.i will say MICE chewed those leeds on you Dan for sure ............
that Darn TOYOTA JIS MOUSE strikes again !
View attachment 2878789
My guess is someone accidentally nicked it at some point. This allowed for corrosion to start from some salty roads it was driven on and if it's in the harness it didn't properly dry out. Then as more and more green corrosion happened there was less sound metal to pass the current until it started to heat up and melt a little bit then finally break.
Cheers.
Cheers.
WoodnotRust
SILVER Star
Spook...this could have gone a different way with a lesser man. Under other circumstances your 60 could have been parked in the back of an overgrown yard with raccoons living below the seats and rust eating away the remaining metal. Another survivor.
I like happy TEq endings
And this is one heading that way !
Good show Dan
You set a spirt of never quitting and never say die !
I both admire and well look up to for inspiration at times like these !
Your a 62 series HERO in my opinion. !
A vintage toyota trooper at the very least ..
Matt
- Thread starter
- #68
I kinda wonder if it got nicked when the fuel tank recall was done 30+ years ago (if it actually was done, which I'm still not 100% sure of).
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- Thread starter
- #69
Okay NOW this story has officially ended! I decided to put together an entire new sub harness from the quarter panel to the fuel pump and sender. Used my 16 AWG silicon insulated wire (given the choice, I would've used 18 AWG for the sender, but I don't have any so really no big deal), a few Weather Pack connectors, and I was able to reuse the factory sender connector with new terminals.
I got curious to see just how far along the corrosion went before hucking the old harness in the trash. The only clean strands were the bit over a quarter inch on the end of the harness inside the quarter panel, but aside from that the ENTIRE length of the fuel pump hot wire was black and green! How it managed to support the current draw of the pump for as long as it did blows my mind.
So I got to work building the new sub harness. Started from the 4-terminal connection in the quarter panel and went from there. Given the wire coloring available to me I substituted the brown wire for blue. But I never plan on selling the truck so that's an easy one for me to keep track of.
The part that'll be inside the truck body I just used some spiral loom for. I cleaned up and was able to reuse the factory grommet, which was nice. Pro tip: Astroglide works magic for feeding wires through conduit and slightly-too-small grommets without tearing things up..........so to speak.
The "exterior" portion is in new nylon split loom. The piece of shrink wrap wasn't critical. Just put in place to prevent the electrical tape from coming undone over time.
Daddy don't play. Every terminal I install on any wire is crimped properly and then soldered. I'm a HUGE fan of the silicon insulated wire because it'll handle the heat from soldering without deforming or separating from the conductor at all.
In the truck I replaced the factory connector with a mated 4-terminal Weather Pack, installed the "vehicle end" of the new harness, and then after fishing it into place (without dropping the tank, which was nice) I finished building it in place. No pics of the pump and sender end of the Harness since there really isn't anything special to see. In the pic you can see I put a small length of shrink wrap on both of the 20 AWG factory leads for the fuel gauge & sender. This was to provide a small degree of strain relief for this (IMO) way too small wire.
I got curious to see just how far along the corrosion went before hucking the old harness in the trash. The only clean strands were the bit over a quarter inch on the end of the harness inside the quarter panel, but aside from that the ENTIRE length of the fuel pump hot wire was black and green! How it managed to support the current draw of the pump for as long as it did blows my mind.
So I got to work building the new sub harness. Started from the 4-terminal connection in the quarter panel and went from there. Given the wire coloring available to me I substituted the brown wire for blue. But I never plan on selling the truck so that's an easy one for me to keep track of.
The part that'll be inside the truck body I just used some spiral loom for. I cleaned up and was able to reuse the factory grommet, which was nice. Pro tip: Astroglide works magic for feeding wires through conduit and slightly-too-small grommets without tearing things up..........so to speak.
The "exterior" portion is in new nylon split loom. The piece of shrink wrap wasn't critical. Just put in place to prevent the electrical tape from coming undone over time.
Daddy don't play. Every terminal I install on any wire is crimped properly and then soldered. I'm a HUGE fan of the silicon insulated wire because it'll handle the heat from soldering without deforming or separating from the conductor at all.
In the truck I replaced the factory connector with a mated 4-terminal Weather Pack, installed the "vehicle end" of the new harness, and then after fishing it into place (without dropping the tank, which was nice) I finished building it in place. No pics of the pump and sender end of the Harness since there really isn't anything special to see. In the pic you can see I put a small length of shrink wrap on both of the 20 AWG factory leads for the fuel gauge & sender. This was to provide a small degree of strain relief for this (IMO) way too small wire.
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- Thread starter
- #70
I finished building the sub harness, connected everything, put the replacement pressure gauge on the cold start injector's banjo fitting, and it fired right up.
We've got pressure!
It held beautifully consistent with next to no fluctuations. When I would pinch the tester's soft line, pressure would go up a couple PSI and within half a second be right back at 42 PSI. So I have the new pressure regulator and pulsation damper still boxed and on the shelf for when I might need either of them.
We've got pressure!
It held beautifully consistent with next to no fluctuations. When I would pinch the tester's soft line, pressure would go up a couple PSI and within half a second be right back at 42 PSI. So I have the new pressure regulator and pulsation damper still boxed and on the shelf for when I might need either of them.
Last edited:
- Joined
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- 14,279
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I wouldn't be surprised if it runs noticeably better all the time now, Fuel pump voltage is important
- Thread starter
- #72
I'm honestly curious too. I didn't think to do it while it was apart, but one day in the future I'm going to take a reading of just how much current the fuel pump pulls.
Also really wish I could've seen what the fuel pressure had been with the original harness. When I eventually convert to Speedhut gauges I intend to add a fuel pressure gauge and an engine vacuum gauge. Just need to decide which one has to be on the A pillar though
I completely redid the same harness in order to get the fuel sender working properly. Glad you found the issue.
