Bragging rights over. 3FE quit and won't restart

Spook50

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I have an OTC fuel pressure gage kit. Works well and seems pretty robust.
Does it have the M8x1.0 banjo adapter to use it on your 3FE? I'm trying to find an OTC tester that has that (other than the $400+ master service kit) and haven't found one yet, other than a supercheap one that got several bad reviews.
 
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I haven’t used it on the 3fe yet but I believe it has the correct adapter. It’s kit #5610

9A77D34A-FDED-4DF5-AA3A-58DC109599A8.jpeg


572D56C3-6188-4319-8F99-8779ADB644F6.jpeg


You thread the fitting into the hole for the banjo bolt and the hose for the gage threads onto the fitting.
 

Spook50

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I haven’t used it on the 3fe yet but I believe it has the correct adapter. It’s kit #5610

View attachment 2876555

View attachment 2876556

You thread the fitting into the hole for the banjo bolt and the hose for the gage threads onto the fitting.
Looks like it would thread into the fuel rail so you could run the test, but couldn't be left installed while retaining the function of the cold start injector like an actual banjo/schrader adapter would. Not critical, but it would certainly be handy to have the ability to plug in a tester with a quickness when needed.

Then again I'm now wishing I had a permanently installed fuel pressure gauge :rolleyes:
 
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Dude! Bummer. This is all speculative at this point, but one x-mas the thing that got me was an eroding connection behind the drivers rear quarter panel. (Big blue junc to ion) I ended up running a hard wire to jump the damaged connection the next day. However, that night we had a friend rescue us from Copper ski area all the way back to the front range. Funny how everyone was commenting how well the rig got us up I-70 to the mountain earlier that day.
 

Spook50

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Dude! Bummer. This is all speculative at this point, but one x-mas the thing that got me was an eroding connection behind the drivers rear quarter panel. (Big blue junc to ion) I ended up running a hard wire to jump the damaged connection the next day. However, that night we had a friend rescue us from Copper ski area all the way back to the front range. Funny how everyone was commenting how well the rig got us up I-70 to the mountain earlier that day.
Behind the rear quarter?? Interesting. I haven't gotten to the point of inspecting it yet, but I'll have to look tomorrow and see if that's where the circuit opening relay for the fuel pump is placed.
 

Godwin

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I've only had 4 things shut down a 3FE:

1. Grunged up distributor due to a clogged fresh air vent. This was a fluke and can be ruled out as a typical issue.
2. Failed FPR. Easy fix and gave signs of death prior to failure.
3. Dead EFI relay. Easy fix.
4. Dead Circuit Opening Relay. Easy fix.
 
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Looks like it would thread into the fuel rail so you could run the test, but couldn't be left installed while retaining the function of the cold start injector like an actual banjo/schrader adapter would. Not critical, but it would certainly be handy to have the ability to plug in a tester with a quickness when needed.

Then again I'm now wishing I had a permanently installed fuel pressure you could make up your own cold start line with a “T” fitting to connect a permanent gage. Make up a small bracket to mount it. Speedway or jegs or summit are common suppliers for the basic materials and fittings.
 
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Couple things to add to this. You can jump the fuel pump at the diagnostic port on the firewall for troubleshooting. I could be mistaken, but I think manual gives a flow rate for fuel system. I'd have to look it up, but I think you can do that simple test at the cold start injector. I'd recommend using the jumper and just cracking the cold start injector to check for fuel before spending money on a pressure gauge.

The only thing related to fuel on the blue connector in the drivers side quarter panel is the ground. The ground for the fuel pump and fuel level sender is located dead center in the rear of the vehicle just above where the wires pass through the rear of the body to the lower hatch for the license plate lights. The fuel pump and sender have a connector forward of the blue connector just behind the drivers side rear wheel well in the quarter panel.
 

Ming89FJ62

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This was many years ago - but w did have the the connector in the DS rear wheel well crap out which resulted in no power to the fuel pump. Cut and spliced all the wires and back in business. So long ago I almost forgot - don't ever let your mind get old. Here's hoping it's something simple.
 
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This was many years ago - but w did have the the connector in the DS rear wheel well crap out which resulted in no power to the fuel pump. Cut and spliced all the wires and back in business. So long ago I almost forgot - don't ever let your mind get old. Here's hoping it's something simple.
Yeah just had to replace my wiring harness back in March.
1640714879963.png


Circled in red is the connector for the fuel pump and sender should be, mine was cut and twisted together by either a PO or a body shop. This is the harness that runs down the drivers side by the door jams and over the rear wheel well.

1640715468942.png


And here's where the ground is located, excuse the giant connector I had to splice in for the license plate lights.

1640715054625.png


1640714999734.png
 
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I don't think this is your issue because you already stated that you heard your pump. This is for anyone searching this thread with no fuel pump noise.

If the connector in the drivers rear quarter is corroded you wouldn't hear the fuel pump running. The issue would be broken ground or 12v to the fuel pump (or both). Do the paper clip jumper in the diagnostic port, If you get the pump to run with that method then its not the connector in the wheel well. Either way, check that connector and if it looks good put some dielectric grease in it.

Godwins #3 and 4 are where i would start, beyond maybe disconnecting the cold start fuel line and seeing if gas is flowing.
 

Spook50

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Yeah just had to replace my wiring harness back in March.
View attachment 2877093

Circled in red is the connector for the fuel pump and sender should be, mine was cut and twisted together by either a PO or a body shop. This is the harness that runs down the drivers side by the door jams and over the rear wheel well.

View attachment 2877114

And here's where the ground is located, excuse the giant connector I had to splice in for the license plate lights.

View attachment 2877102

View attachment 2877099
You did the exact thing I had to do several years ago for my license plate lights. Same connector too. Gotta love the Weather Pack connectors. I'll be checking both the connector and the ground today as soon as I'm back home. With the long list of things I have yet to still check, here's hoping I find the problem quickly.

@CarterTheFarter I was pretty confident it was the pump I was hearing, as I was hearing a slight whirring noise near the fuel pressure regulator when I looked around Friday night, but I'm going to make sure today and verify it actually IS the pump I was hearing. I sure hope the problem isn't the pump itself, since I replaced both that and the filter with OEM Denso units last February.

@Godwin I'm keeping my fingers crossed the fix ends up being easy and found quick. Managed to check the distributor yesterday and it checks out. I was working alone yesterday so didn't have a helper to help me check for spark, which I'll do today. #2 #3 and #4 haven't been ruled out, though there was no warning sign before it quit so I'm not convinced that's the primary cause, but I do have a new regulator and damper on their way from Rockauto regardless.
 
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You did the exact thing I had to do several years ago for my license plate lights. Same connector too. Gotta love the Weather Pack connectors. I'll be checking both the connector and the ground today as soon as I'm back home. With the long list of things I have yet to still check, here's hoping I find the problem quickly.

@CarterTheFarter I was pretty confident it was the pump I was hearing, as I was hearing a slight whirring noise near the fuel pressure regulator when I looked around Friday night, but I'm going to make sure today and verify it actually IS the pump I was hearing. I sure hope the problem isn't the pump itself, since I replaced both that and the filter with OEM Denso units last February.
Yeah easiest way to rule out the pump is to jump the diagnostic port and crack the cold start inject bolt.
1640719903421.png



Are you getting a check engine light at all?
 
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Another quick thing if you haven't dug into the driver side rear quarter panel yet, there are plugs in the rear quarters for draining water, pull those and see if it's holding water, ended up having to clean all my rear quarter connectors because they were under water. It's supposed to drain through a gap in the pinch weld but that gets easily blocked
 

Spook50

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Yeah easiest way to rule out the pump is to jump the diagnostic port and crack the cold start inject bolt.
View attachment 2877180


Are you getting a check engine light at all?
Yep, that's my next step after confirming spark or no spark.

No codes on the CEL at all though, which left me starting from scratch. Now that I have a helper today and not pouring down snow, hopefully I can do a lot more troubleshooting.
 

Spook50

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Hokay, got spark and verified the fuel pump is NOT kicking on like I had at first thought it was. Checked the blue connector and aside from being dirty it's in surprisingly good condition. It'll get a squirt of contact cleaner and a coating of dielectric grease when I go back out tomorrow to work more on it. I lost daylight today and started getting chilly so still got to track down the issue with the pump not running. Going to check for voltage at the lead in the connector and if none there, test the relay. If there's voltage, I'll check grounds and then (ugh) the pump itself.
 

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