Builds BoltRipper's 2-year Overdue Build Thread (3 Viewers)

[mudgudgeon]

Here is the board attached with the pins

Took a few hours, but I'm really happy how it turned out.

Here is the bottom drawer. I used 6" high pieces, so the ability to customize by doing it yourself was well worth it. I think TP only has some pieces a bit over 4"

View attachment 1998399

So, total cost of materials for both drawers was around $80. This was $40 for the 6mm high density foam on the bottom of the drawers and $40 in divider materials from the craft store.

I did some rough calculations on the TrekPac and I would have had to spend well over $600 in their individual divider kits.

This is obviously not as nice as the TrekPak product, but I'm happy with the results.

Cheers,

john~

Clever.
Shame you didn't wrap the foam as a single piece from one side to the other over the top edge

 

[Overland Tailor]

Clever.
Shame you didn't wrap the foam as a single piece from one side to the other over the top edge

That would be a super clean look, but I think trimming the foam could be difficult. Maybe cutting small strips and just gluing them on top might work?

I'll leave that to the next guy who does it!!

J

 

[Vlex]

Here is the board attached with the pins

Took a few hours, but I'm really happy how it turned out.

Here is the bottom drawer. I used 6" high pieces, so the ability to customize by doing it yourself was well worth it. I think TP only has some pieces a bit over 4"

View attachment 1998399

So, total cost of materials for both drawers was around $80. This was $40 for the 6mm high density foam on the bottom of the drawers and $40 in divider materials from the craft store.

I did some rough calculations on the TrekPac and I would have had to spend well over $600 in their individual divider kits.

This is obviously not as nice as the TrekPak product, but I'm happy with the results.

Cheers,

john~

Superb, thanks!! Always loved the TrekPak systems, but the price is very high.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Thanks to @beno I was able to obtain a NOS console lid in the new color that was introduced after production stopped.

The origional lid was still in good shape, but this one almost matches my seats perfectly

 

[Overland Tailor]

last weekend I wanted to install an LED strip along the window. I added a factory dome light on the hatch with LED that worked great, but with the addition of the TrekBoxx I've been spending much more time at the rear of the vehicle and lighting has been lacking.

I went with RGBW so I can adjust to less white light to hopefully not attract too many insects...

I used waterproof LEDs and ran the strip across the full length of the rear hatch glass.

Proper controller that will handle the full watts of the selected lights.

Not bad.. Having the light at the glass provides a forward throw, as you'll see in the next post. I thought about running the strip lower on the gate, but didn't want to have the light going everywhere.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Here's a shot with just the white LED's

Added in some Red

All Green

Cheers~

John-

 

[Overland Tailor]

Finished up a 50% and full length platform for more storage of my FrontRunner boxes. Used 3/4 Baltic Birch and had it Line-X'd to match my @TrekboxX Alpha System. I think it will work just fine.

Cheers,

John

 

[Overland Tailor]

This weekend I installed a set of AirLift bags into my OME Heavy Coils. I wanted more adjustability for load and after reading pages and pages of threads I went with the AirLift #60755 bags. I measured inside spring height and width and AirLift agreed that the 60755 was the correct bag height and diameter for my setup.

I modified the spring perch with additional space for the air fitting and line as it seems that was the most problematic issue with some 80 series guys and a bunch of 100 series guys. They just drill out the hole to 3/4 or 1" and call it good. Unfortunately they usually pull the line off the bags at some point. This is a result of the factory hole in the perch being off center. I went with (2) Oversized holes that connect in an oval. This gives the bags freedom to shift without worry of pulling off the line.

35 PSI gave me about 2.5" additional inches, so now when I load 4 fuel cans, water and firewood on a hitch rack, I'll still sit nice and level.

I'm keeping 10 PSI in them unloaded (5 PSI minimum at all times) and the ride is still very nice.

Installed a new set of spring isolators as well.

Cheers,

John

 

[Overland Tailor]

So 2019 has been the year of taking care of all the "Little Things"... I've had a squeak / rattle for a few years now that was intermittent and I could never find it. It was from the rear and happened when I would go over certain bumps or rough road sections.

All my suspension components have been replaced and all bushings are new... Finally when hitting my parking brake bell crank by hand I reproduced the sound to some extent.

My final test was to run the truck over sections of road that always made the noise and when I came to those bumps, I pulled the parking brake up to tension the system and it was silent !!! Found it....

My parking brake was tensioned and adjusted as per the FSM, but pulling up on the hand brake lever eliminated the noise. It drove me crazy at times for years, and was that simple, I just missed it.

I pulled the parking brake bell crank, cleaned and lubed it and the noise went away for a few days, but came back albeit less. At that point I decided that the 22 year old parts had done all I could ask of them and I decided to just replace the entire system with new OEM parts....

This is what it looks like prior to install....

Here is a shot of some old vs. new

Here was part of my problem I believe.. No way to achieve the correct tension.

Some new hardware installed......

More new bits on the inside...........

 

[Overland Tailor]

And finally the new bits on the back. Adjusted the system and it has nothing to say now going over rough roads. It's also nice to have the parking brake hold the truck when on inclines.

 

[Dubbinchris]

Can you post a list of those part numbers?

 

[Overland Tailor]

Can you post a list of those part numbers?

This is for just about everything except for the spring retainer cups as those are NLA according to my local dealer, but I haven't looked around to confirm that..... Mine did not need replacing.

I also did not replace the dog bone (Just replaced the spring) or the parking brake arm that attaches to the shoe. (Just replaced the pin and horseshoe retainer.)

4 x 90506-20033 - Parking Brake Tension Spring

2 x 90213-06013 - Parking Brake C Washer

2 x 90249-08075 - Bell Crank Pin

1 x 47624-60022 - Right Hand Bell Crank

1 x 47625-60022 - Left Hand Bell Crank

1 x 47628-60010 - Right Hand Parking Brake Bell Crank Bracket

1 x 47629-60010 - Left Hand Parking Brake Bell Crank Bracket

1 x 47633-60010 - Right Hand Parking Brake Bell Crank Boot

1 x 47634-60010 - Left Hand Parking Brake Bell Crank Boot

4 x 90080-11601 - Bolt With Washer

2 x 47639-30020 - Bell Crank Stopper Bolt

2 x 94110-40600 - Nut

2 x 90213-04001 - Parking Brake C Washer

2 x 90213-07010 - C Washer Shoe

2 x 90468-03006 - Clip Cable to Bellcrank

2 x 90240-08042 - Pin Cable to Bellcrank

2 x 90468-14033 - Lock Key Cable to Bell Crank

2 x 90504-14002 - Shoe Strut Spring

2 x 90506-12029 - Tension Spring #1

2 x 90506-12068 - Tension Spring #3

2 x 90905-A6001 - Tension Spring #2

2 x 90016-DY008 - Tension Spring #2

4 x 90501-16053 - Spring, Compression 2 / Side

2 x 47447-50010 - Spring Hold Down Pin

2 x 47447-30020 - Spring Hold Down Pin

2 x 47616-60020 - Wire/Cable

2 x 90249-07074 - Pin



Hope this helps -

John

 

[Overland Tailor]

In keeping up with "Taking Care of the Little Things in 2019", Today I received a package from @NLXTACY and @landtank ... Appreciate all the help getting a DC shaft in a custom length as the 2UZFE pushes the front shaft forward several inches. Nothing is easy~

Arrived on time and packaged nicely.

I'n not going to lie, but while I expected the DC end to be larger than the stock Prop Shaft, this thing is big. So big that I was worried that it might not clear the custom skid plate or the oil pan. Just what I would need, a nice paperweight...... I had my fingers crossed.

Picked up some new hardware as well...

I was lucky tonight, as I ended up with several inches from the skid plate and about an inch from the pan.

The truck has had a tiny bit of decel growl, really no vibes but I want to see if the DC shaft completely removes the noise.

Cheers -


John

 

[NLXTACY]

Dude fingers crossed!

 

[Overland Tailor]

Dude fingers crossed!

Joey - Totally quiet now. I can't hear a thing..... Thanks so much for the help !!

 

[NLXTACY]

So glad it worked out!

 

[Jroc561]

Just went through this whole thread today, one of the better builds Ive ever seen. Please dont ever get rid of this thing, even if you get another itch just store it somewhere.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Just went through this whole thread today, one of the better builds Ive ever seen. Please dont ever get rid of this thing, even if you get another itch just store it somewhere.

Thanks.. My issue is that I tend to put all my effort into one truck and have a 200 Series to start, but this one will be hard to part with.

 

[Surfdc]

I figured a truck with 90,000 even though I didn't have any signs of the drive-shafts needing rebuilt, I should go ahead and do it.. After pricing Toyota parts and a drive-shaft shop to rebuild them, I just figured I would spend the extra and get both front and rear drive-shafts from -Onur- ... That way I would have spares...


New Toyota Goodness

Marked both shafts properly and greased the prop-shafts...

Factory job from Toyota....

After a proper greasing....

Give them a burp and get them installed....

After Install.... All new hardware , OEM of course..

John, I am doing this soon, did you need to get the new OEM shafts balanced?
Thank you.

 

[OGBeno]

John, I am doing this soon, did you need to get the new OEM shafts balanced?
Thank you.

OEM shafts come already balanced from factory.