Bolt on turbo kit (2 Viewers)

[Heckraiser]

Burnouts not possible with the auto unless you take it to the local hockey rink.

 

[Briano]

I love this turbo so much, that my spare motor is going to get rebuilt this winter, and installed into my lx450 plow truck/ summer guest camper in the spring with a turbo!

 

[scottryana]

I am so glad that this thread that I started over 2 years ago finally came to life and that Joey was the one that made everything happen. I can finally feel like I have contributed something back to Mud! Can't wait to see my first Wits End turbo kit in the wild. Congratulations to everyone that has their kit and has gotten them installed and thanks for the pictures and videos!

 

[alia176]

@Briano

Since you tow, are you feelings the tranny slilppage with the additional engine power output? Is the valve body mod in your future?

 

[scottryana]

I recommend the valve body upgrade if you are towing or not.

@Briano

Since you tow, are you feelings the tranny slilppage with the additional engine power output? Is the valve body mod in your future?

 

[Briano]

@Briano

Since you tow, are you feelings the tranny slilppage with the additional engine power output? Is the valve body mod in your future?

I did the valve body mod a few months back, after the mod it shifted insanely hard, now that the turbo is in, it shifts perfect!

 

[NLXTACY]

I did the valve body mod a few months back, after the mod it shifted insanely hard, now that the turbo is in, it shifts perfect!

that’s good to know

 

[NLXTACY]

I am so glad that this thread that I started over 2 years ago finally came to life and that Joey was the one that made everything happen. I can finally feel like I have contributed something back to Mud! Can't wait to see my first Wits End turbo kit in the wild. Congratulations to everyone that has their kit and has gotten them installed and thanks for the pictures and videos!

well if it weren’t for you steering the ship and giving me good advice I definitely would have taken this off the rails.

 

[HDJdreams]

I love this turbo so much, that my spare motor is going to get rebuilt this winter, and installed into my lx450 plow truck/ summer guest camper in the spring with a turbo!
View attachment 2089563

I have one of those sitting my garage too. Same boat, need to do a rebuild after getting turbo installed.

@NLXTACY and @scottryana Time to start a new thread: WET-1 Motor Rebuild Guide! What, if any, upgrades or substitutions are recommended over OEM parts (newer nozzle injectors, head studs and gaskets), valve work, balance and blueprint, etc. What parts we can get through Joey, and where to get other stuff.

Even if the answer is just stay OEM, it would be better to have a new, focused thread than 200+, soon 300+ pages to wade through.

 

[NLXTACY]

@HDJdreams might not be a bad idea. I suppose if doing a complete rebuild I’d have different ideas vs just doing a headgasket and studs.

 

[HDJdreams]

My 1FZ always had a vibration at idle or just above when in gear (stoplight or lightly accelerating) ever since I got it back in 01 with 42k miles. I was disappointed as I thought I6 were supposed to be smooth.

 

[Heckraiser]

I can finally feel like I have contributed something back to Mud!

I would say you have contributed mightily before this point My turbo kit that you helped me build is still kicking around CO, now home in Greeley.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Burnouts not possible with the auto unless you take it to the local hockey rink.

Pretty sure it’s possible in my Cummins 80....but I don’t trust my axles enough to really try.

 

[jjdeneen918]

Some observations after driving the turbo for a few days:


Absolutely F-ing LOVE it!! OMG! It really makes the rig way more fun to drive. .

I’ve only taken it up to 80 mph so far.
Big, heavy, lifted, & front sway bar currently unattached. I don’t think I’d be comfortable maintaining much higher speeds with LA traffic. There is always a lot of cars on the road.

Upon initial driving I had a half-tank of 87 fuel. Mashing the throttle to the floor, I would be getting some engine clatter noise (predetination?).
After topping off the tank with 91, the amount of noise went down.
I’ll re-assess after I have a full tank of pure 91 fuel. Currently 1/2 87 & 1/2 91 octane.

I did install the 14in1 gauge into the rig. Water temp sensor was installed between engine & upper radiator hose. Right into the flat circular area of the engine side before radiator hose.
Comparing my ScanGauageII & new display, the water temps are off from anywhere between 3-7 degrees. Averaging at about 5-6 degrees.
14in1 shows the hotter of the temps.
Consistent freeways speeds of 70-75 mph, rig is running about 200 degrees. Scangauge under 200, 14in1 a little over.
It does seems to be running warmer after install.
I would be interested to hear what others temps are at.
Last night, 11pm. Westbound 91 freeway from the 110 freeway til Bellflower Bl exit. I was getting a very slight temp creep from about 200 to 206 on the 14in1 (5 degrees cooler on OBD2 gauge), when I exited the freeway. It was a flat 10 mile stretch.
Temp dropped several degrees after exiting.
Joey what was your experience of the test mules?

I do smell a toasty smell from engine bay. I do have a lot of new wiring under the hood, so I’m not sure if it’s all just settling in.
I do feel the main wiring loom is close to all the new exhaust. I’ve never felt it before to see how toasty it originally got, so I have no imperial data, could just be my OCD worrying.
I’m not sure if they make split-loom Insultherm to wrap that, or making a sheath similar to A/C line would be beneficial right there.
Just a question/observation.

A/C condenser dripping. Drips onto new down pipe. I’m not concerned at all, but it was a scary sound the first time I heard the popping & sizzling sounds it made just after parking the rig.

Now that I have new gauges, I have an oil temp sensor. It does show hotter than the water temps by maybe 15 degrees. I’m guessing that is what oil temp should be?

AFR’s are typically about 15.

Overall extremely satisfied. A VERY well built, high quality, system & components. A+ Joey & Ryan.

 

[Corbet]

I have one of those sitting my garage too. Same boat, need to do a rebuild after getting turbo installed.

@NLXTACY and @scottryana Time to start a new thread: WET-1 Motor Rebuild Guide! What, if any, upgrades or substitutions are recommended over OEM parts (newer nozzle injectors, head studs and gaskets), valve work, balance and blueprint, etc. What parts we can get through Joey, and where to get other stuff.

Even if the answer is just stay OEM, it would be better to have a new, focused thread than 200+, soon 300+ pages to wade through.

As someone in the middle of this I came to the conclusion that pretty much OEM is the way to go. Other than I will be doing head studs and a Cometic HG. My builder is using Clevite main bearings as the OEM in the size I needed were discontinued. If your plans include future piggyback fueling and more boost then you may choose to upgrade other components.

 

[Corbet]

Some observations after driving the turbo for a few days:

Upon initial driving I had a half-tank of 87 fuel. Mashing the throttle to the floor, I would be getting some engine clatter noise (predetination?).
After topping off the tank with 91, the amount of noise went down.
I’ll re-assess after I have a full tank of pure 91 fuel. Currently 1/2 87 & 1/2 91 octane.

Please follow up on this.

 

[alia176]

I did the valve body mod a few months back, after the mod it shifted insanely hard, now that the turbo is in, it shifts perfect!

This is GREAT info and I'll hold off until after the turbo. Newbie question: why is the shifting characteristic improve after the additional hp? I'm sure it has something to do line pressure but I know bubkus when it comes to trannys.

 

[NLXTACY]

Absolutely F-ing LOVE it!! OMG! It really makes the rig way more fun to drive. .

Awesome to hear!

Upon initial driving I had a half-tank of 87 fuel. Mashing the throttle to the floor, I would be getting some engine clatter noise (predetination?). After topping off the tank with 91, the amount of noise went down.
I’ll re-assess after I have a full tank of pure 91 fuel. Currently 1/2 87 & 1/2 91 octane.

Engine pinging is very very likely the result of low octane fuel. "Clatter" to me would be a different noise. Please check the 90º silicone hose that drops down into the turbo. The clamp holding it onto the intake tube rests right at or above the air filter canister. While driving, that clamp is very likely knocking on the air canister producing that noise you are hearing.

I did install the 14in1 gauge into the rig. Water temp sensor was installed between engine & upper radiator hose. Right into the flat circular area of the engine side before radiator hose.
Comparing my ScanGauageII & new display, the water temps are off from anywhere between 3-7 degrees. Averaging at about 5-6 degrees. 14in1 shows the hotter of the temps.

Expected. I have an inline hose coupler with a sensor on the top hose on my SuperCharged truck and it too reads about 5º warmer than what the ScanGuage shows.

Consistent freeways speeds of 70-75 mph, rig is running about 200 degrees. Scangauge under 200, 14in1 a little over. It does seems to be running warmer after install. I would be interested to hear what others temps are at. Last night, 11pm. Westbound 91 freeway from the 110 freeway til Bellflower Bl exit. I was getting a very slight temp creep from about 200 to 206 on the 14in1 (5 degrees cooler on OBD2 gauge), when I exited the freeway. It was a flat 10 mile stretch.
Temp dropped several degrees after exiting. Joey what was your experience of the test mules?

How is your fan clutch? I can't recall if you replaced that. In the Test Mule I never hit 200º while on the frwy, day or night.

I do smell a toasty smell from engine bay.

That is the turbo blanket. It will go away after a handful of cycles.

I do have a lot of new wiring under the hood, so I’m not sure if it’s all just settling in. I do feel the main wiring loom is close to all the new exhaust. I’ve never felt it before to see how toasty it originally got, so I have no imperial data, could just be my OCD worrying. I’m not sure if they make split-loom Insultherm to wrap that, or making a sheath similar to A/C line would be beneficial right there. Just a question/observation.

I have some F6 Woven wrap that I used. Its good to about 450º, here is the spec sheet:

https://www.techtoolsupply.info/manuals/f6w-spec-sheet.pdf

Otherwise you could use the same stuff I supplied for the AC line.

A/C condenser dripping. Drips onto new down pipe. I’m not concerned at all, but it was a scary sound the first time I heard the popping & sizzling sounds it made just after parking the rig.

You know what, I had hoped that I was indeed about a 1/4" away from that drain but depending on how much water drains will depend how it flows out. I have a feeling about half will notice this and there are other variables to consider. I will look into this some more.

Now that I have new gauges, I have an oil temp sensor. It does show hotter than the water temps by maybe 15 degrees. I’m guessing that is what oil temp should be?

I'm not sure but logically that makes sense IF you are doing some "spirited" driving because that spools up the turbo and the oil is doing its job by removing heat and lubricating.

AFR’s are typically about 15.

An AFR of 15 is running lean. It will feel more powerful but its not as good on the motor. Others will have more to detail here.

Overall extremely satisfied. A VERY well built, high quality, system & components. A+ Joey & Ryan.

Glad to hear!

 

[Briano]

This is GREAT info and I'll hold off until after the turbo. Newbie question: why is the shifting characteristic improve after the additional hp? I'm sure it has something to do line pressure but I know bubkus when it comes to trannys.

When your transmission shifts it slips into gear, when you instal the shift kit it makes those shifts a lot firmer, meaning less slip/ more instant/ harsh, when you add the turbo, the extra power allows the transmission with a shift kit to act more like a stock trans slipping into gear, basically with a shift kit it didn’t have enough power to allow the transmission to smoothly slip into gear! so I wouldn’t recommend running without the shift kit, I think the consequences would be bad!

 

[Heckraiser]

AFR around 15 is fine if you are just cruising around, not under load. The computer will be in open loop and still try and keep you at 14.7 stoich under these conditions, and it will generally succeed at doing so. If you're seeing 15:1 under full throttle and boosting, you've got a problem! If so, I would investigate further before any more spirited driving. Ideally you'd want to be in the 10-12 range under WOT + boost conditions.

Also keep in mind you may see a brief jump up to 14.7 when the transmission shifts, even if you're at full throttle. As far as I can tell, that's normal.