Bolt on turbo kit (2 Viewers)

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I already installed the recommended shift kit in preparation for this turbo, Not a hard install, but definitely be prepared for a much firmer shift, not 100% sure I like it yet, but if it saves my transmission from major failure down the line i'd say it's a mod that needs to be done and worth it for the turbo!


If you adjust the kickdown cable after the shift kit is installed will that smooth it out a little until the turbo is installed? Might be worth a try. If it feels slow to shift after the turbo you can adjust it back. I am just asking - I don't have any clue if this is a good or bad idea. Hopefully someone with more knowledge of this area will chime in.
 
If you adjust the kickdown cable after the shift kit is installed will that smooth it out a little until the turbo is installed? Might be worth a try. If it feels slow to shift after the turbo you can adjust it back. I am just asking - I don't have any clue if this is a good or bad idea. Hopefully someone with more knowledge of this area will chime in.
The kick down cable is for the purpose of forcing the transmission to downshift when you stomp on the throttle, for example to help accelerate faster in a passing scenario, wouldn’t really effect the firmness of the shift, just the timing of the shift! Honestly the transmission downshifts very nicely, the upshifts are a bit harsh, but that would make sense with what Joey said, when it’s downshifting the rpms are higher putting the transmission under more stress allowing it to slip a bit more, currently when it’s upshifting with no turbo it’s under very little stress causing a harsher shift scenario
 
No the kickdown cable wouldn't change it. You could use the pressure selector on the valve body (3 position selector) to dial it down, but you would have to drop the trans pan to do it.

If you adjust the kickdown cable after the shift kit is installed will that smooth it out a little until the turbo is installed? Might be worth a try. If it feels slow to shift after the turbo you can adjust it back. I am just asking - I don't have any clue if this is a good or bad idea. Hopefully someone with more knowledge of this area will chime in.
 
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No the lockdown cable wouldn't change it. You could use the pressure selector on the valve body (3 position selector) to dial it down, but you would have to drop the trans pan to do it.

Err, English please? That’s over my head 🤬.

But really, we’re talking about 4-6 weeks for shipment, just deal with it, or wait for turbo to do more work that weekend.

(DISCLAMER). This is not my daily driver.

I’m errering on the side of get EVERYTHING possible done NOW so turbo install is as quick as possible, cuz at that point, “I demand instant gratification NOW” syndrome. 😁

So far, I got ceramic coated exhaust manifolds & heat shields installed, injectors serviced (RC Engineering), engine mounts insalled coolant lines upgraded witth r lear heater delete, coolant fully flushed, oil drained, Cometic gasket installed, ARP head studs installed, OBA kit set up & installed (mostly).

Regarding Cometic HG. I had 7th thousands removed from head. Block was razor-bladed & red Scotch Brighted. Should be good. 235,000
Miles. Stock HG IS .53, I got .60. So back to stock.

This weekend I plan on dropping transmission pan, installing trans shift kit.

Monday I plan on installing intake, injectors, EGR, replace PHH, rear trans mount (why not).
At that point, I’ll hit up Joey for a shipment timeline. 😁

Just need to know at that point, wait a few days, or put 500 miles & change fluid.
 
The firmer shifts won't hurt anything and if it isn't your daily, I would just do it this weekend and not worry about it.


Err, English please? That’s over my head 🤬.

But really, we’re talking about 4-6 weeks for shipment, just deal with it, or wait for turbo to do more work that weekend.

(DISCLAMER). This is not my daily driver.

I’m errering on the side of get EVERYTHING possible done NOW so turbo install is as quick as possible, cuz at that point, “I demand instant gratification NOW” syndrome. 😁

So far, I got ceramic coated exhaust manifolds & heat shields installed, injectors serviced (RC Engineering), engine mounts insalled coolant lines upgraded witth r lear heater delete, coolant fully flushed, oil drained, Cometic gasket installed, ARP head studs installed, OBA kit set up & installed (mostly).

Regarding Cometic HG. I had 7th thousands removed from head. Block was razor-bladed & red Scotch Brighted. Should be good. 235,000
Miles. Stock HG IS .53, I got .60. So back to stock.

This weekend I plan on dropping transmission pan, installing trans shift kit.

Monday I plan on installing intake, injectors, EGR, replace PHH, rear trans mount (why not).
At that point, I’ll hit up Joey for a shipment timeline. 😁

Just need to know at that point, wait a few days, or put 500 miles & change fluid.
 
The firmer shifts won't hurt anything and if it isn't your daily, I would just do it this weekend and not worry about it.
Agreed I won’t be dropping my pan and adjusting anything, not worth the time and hassle, only reason for my remarks were to make people aware of what to expect, I wouldn’t change that I did it in advance, more I do now less I have to do later when I’m in my busy season!
 
Agreed I won’t be dropping my pan and adjusting anything, not worth the time and hassle, only reason for my remarks were to make people aware of what to expect, I wouldn’t change that I did it in advance, more I do now less I have to do later when I’m in my busy season!

Thanks for the heads up, it'll help those of us who are lined up to do that project. I think most dudes are opting for the middle setting, can't recall what they call it. Was it "sport" or "truck" setting or some such lingo?
 
I have been eyeballing this wideband afr / boost combo. I like that you can map it to alarm it if the afr goes out of range.

 
Thanks for the heads up, it'll help those of us who are lined up to do that project. I think most dudes are opting for the middle setting, can't recall what they call it. Was it "sport" or "truck" setting or some such lingo?
Yea def set everything to the truck specs, that is what I did, I couldn't imagine going to the next stage
 
Yea def set everything to the truck specs, that is what I did, I couldn't imagine going to the next stage
I'm reading shift kit threads. Some seem to think that you shouldn't drill the 1-2 cause the shift is so hard. Others don't think its aggressive at all. Thinking overall the kit is a good idea, but not having ridden in one with a kit may wait until after i have the turbo in. Can't decide which way to go.

Also, has there been any thought to an inline oil filter pre turbo? In subaru land they always get pulled out due to starvation concerns. In other turbo worlds i know people won't go without them to save the turbo from any possible debris. Thoughts?
 
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I'm reading shift kit threads. Some seem to think that you shouldn't drill the 1-2 cause the shift is so hard. Others don't think its aggressive at all. Thinking overall the kit is a good idea, but not having ridden in one with a kit may wait until after i have the turbo in. Can't decide which way to go.

Also, has there been any thought to an inline oil filter pre turbo? In subaru land they always get pulled out due to starvation concerns. In other turbo worlds i know people won't go without them to save the turbo from any possible debris. Thoughts?

I wouldn't add an inline filter, just keep the regular oil changed and clean. Back in the day I was a Volvo turbo guy and ran one up to 308k miles (850 Turbo) on the original turbo and another to 200k (242 Turbo) with no inline filters. On the 242 when the turbo did eventually wear out I swapped in a rebuilt core but kept the turbine and exhaust housings.
 
On my 80 we set the shift kit to "truck". Its not smooth and its not obnoxious. I do hope the the turbo smooths it out. The shifts feel better on the interstate than in-town traffic. 1-2 is what gets your attention. I even tried the 2nd start to see if that did much, negligible. I only had 100 Miles seat time in before the shift Kit was in place so not much to compare. For all i know thats how the 80 rides.
Sure beats the $1200 price tag for a valve body from WAT

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Nice pics! Can you point out the 1 - 2 hole that you enlarged please?
 
My box showed yesterday. I was disappointed that they didn’t list which of 4 options an application would have.

I was FAR more disappointed they didn’t put part numbers on the bags!! Directions just say take the “red” spring, etc. There are several “red” springs. I was really wondering about the pins and dowels. I haven’t taken anything out of bags yet.

As far as I understand, the “1st gear hold down” part of the kit is unnecessary for us, transmission stays in 1st when “L” is selected in a stock truck anyway.
 
Correct you do not have to worry about any of the 1st gear hold down parts.

My box showed yesterday. I was disappointed that they didn’t list which of 4 options an application would have.

I was FAR more disappointed they didn’t put part numbers on the bags!! Directions just say take the “red” spring, etc. There are several “red” springs. I was really wondering about the pins and dowels. I haven’t taken anything out of bags yet.

As far as I understand, the “1st gear hold down” part of the kit is unnecessary for us, transmission stays in 1st when “L” is selected in a stock truck anyway.
 
My box showed yesterday. I was disappointed that they didn’t list which of 4 options an application would have.

I was FAR more disappointed they didn’t put part numbers on the bags!! Directions just say take the “red” spring, etc. There are several “red” springs. I was really wondering about the pins and dowels. I haven’t taken anything out of bags yet.

As far as I understand, the “1st gear hold down” part of the kit is unnecessary for us, transmission stays in 1st when “L” is selected in a stock truck anyway.
I just did mine last week. Read the link above(from lilevo) and follow that. It’ll be clear once you pull the accumulator pistons what goes where. You’ll clip the springs on the bottom(between the pistons and valve body). It’s all in one bag. Plain, red and blue springs, plus a pin. It’s meant to be a do-all kit and cover lots of different models of the same transmission family.
 
I just fitted my Wholesale Automatics Nomad valve body for the A442F. I got it through Cruiser Brothers/Valley hybrids. Georg looked after ordering and shipping it to me. FULL DISCLOSURE, I paid for it and I haven't been kicked-back. Georg could buy me a beer next time we meet however:lol:.

This thing ROCKS. I have had a 2-3 shift flare (that has gotten progressively more pronounced through the years) since the truck was new and I learned to live with it. Also the kickdown has always been unpredictable. The new valve body corrected both of those issues while providing what can best be characterized as "clean" shifts accross the board in both regular and power modes. No flare, no slip, not harsh or abrupt like a shift kit. Just competent. I love it.

I wish I had done this years ago when I first talked about it with Rodney from Wholesale Automatics.
 

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