A343 Transgo Reprogram Kit Install - 1995-1997

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Sep 15, 2008
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53402, Racine, WI and 92111 San Diego, CA
I recently installed a turbo kit on my truck and stock shifts were hurting bad. Very slow, lots of flare, etc. This reprogram kit costs about $100 and is different from the standard shift kit at around $60 because it includes drill bits to machine out the shifting points in the separation plate between the valve bodies. I highly recommend this kit because you are pulling everything apart anyways. You might as well do a little bit more work and be much happier.

Turbo Build thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/703295-diy-fjz80-low-budget-turbo-build.html

Onto the installation. I started around 3pm and was finished and driving by 8pm.

Here are the steps in word-format

Before you do any of this make sure to order two new valve body gaskets. They are around $11.50 each. Mine had 238k on them and I probably could have reused them. They were still pliable and not rock solid and chipping into a million pieces. Still cheap and good peace of mind with new gaskets.


1) Drain trans pan, remove upper and lower bolts for fill tube, remove all trans pan bolts and pan
2) Remove trans filter, unhook the kickdown cable from the drum, solenoid connectors, and valve body
3) A small spring and check valve along with two larger springs will likely fall out when you drop the valve body. Ensure you find these pieces.
4) Separate valve body upper and lower portions.
5) Install a new spring into the valve body, remove two check balls, and slightly enlarge three holes in the metal separation plate. Install two new gaskets and put the valve body halves back together.
6) Remove old small springs that are attached to the accumulators and and put the transgo springs into the other side of each accumulator as shown in the directions.
7) Bolt valve body back into transmission and put everything back together.

Here is the picture version

Take the pan off


Remove the cable from the drum


Remove valve body


Pieces that may fall out when you remove valve body. Accumulators and anti drainback valve


Replace accumulator springs with kit springs


Accumulator stock springs in front discarded


Stock springs attached to accumulators removed


Our valve body is a Type 1. The instructions are very easy to follow. I only removed two check balls, and swapped one spring (PR spring) in the valve body. The transmission already holds in L gear to any RPM you want without automatically shifting so there was no need to do any low gear modifications.


Parts removed from valve body


Bolts holding the upper and lower valve body portions to each other


Valve body separated


Dirty plate with old gasket


Cleaned up plate


Gasket - plate - gasket


Drills provided with the kit


Drill sheet. The only thing I had to do was the 1-2, 2-3, and 3-4 drilling. I used the "truck" drill bit sizes. If you want even firmer shifting than what is in the video below then go one or two sizes larger. Everything else on the sheet was set/complete/no work needed


Enlarging the 1-2 shift port


Enlarging the 2-3 shift port


Enlarging the 3-4 shift port





Video of the poor shifting before the shift kit:

Video of the fast shifting with the shift reprogram kit:


So there you have it. Looking for more performance out of your transmission look no further. I highly recommend this kit to everyone as the improvement is dramatic and you can even have it shifting quicker and harder than my video by drilling slightly larger. If you can do a head gasket or timing chain job then this will be cakewalk for you.

It looks daunting at first just reading the directions, but once everything is apart you will realize how easy it is and how little work you have to do inside. The majority of the work is scraping the transmission and pan gasket surface clean and unbolting/bolting the valve body.
 
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alia176

 
 
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So, THAT'S what a shift kit is all about. Very interesting. Do non turbo/supercharge transmissions benefit from this mod?

Thanks for posting up the pics.
 
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I would say probably not. If you are doing a lot of towing it may prolong the life of the trans but for day to day normal stuff I wouldn't think so. I've owned my truck n/a for 4 years or so and can't remember the last time I took it to redline or floored it prior to putting on the turbo :)
 

e9999

You want to do what...?
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nice. that is the sort of things I would hesitate to undertake so it's great to see it explained. I certainly did picture lots of springs and balls falling all over the place, getting lost and my ruining the whole thing. I don't need to do this, but good to know about it.

(could not see the youtubes though, unfortunately)
 

alia176

 
 
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I would say probably not. If you are doing a lot of towing it may prolong the life of the trans but for day to day normal stuff I wouldn't think so. I've owned my truck n/a for 4 years or so and can't remember the last time I took it to redline or floored it prior to putting on the turbo :)
When I'm towing the 1700lb trailer, I do tend to flog the crap out of in order to maintain 75mph(ish) and I'm on top of my ATF change routine. At our elevation of >5,000', moving this beast along takes some serious coaxing :D
 

1973Guppie

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good thread, this is going to help me right now, so you set everything up under the "truck" setting? looks like step 1 is hot rods only so I think I am going to skip it.
 

94SRUNNER

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Would this project be unnecessary for a naturally aspirated 1FZ? Or would it be an improvement over the stock 343?
 

scottryana

 
 
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I personally think that as an temporary step to help the transmission as it starts to get old and as the wear parts start to show signs of wear. But if you make this mod, and you get another 40,000 miles out of the transmission and then have it rebuilt, there is no going back, once it is fresh the shifts will be quite hard. To the point of maybe even breaking traction in low range in loose stuff. There is an adjustment on the pressure regulator for Low/Medium/High, so you could also play with it.
 
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Good stuff... Nice write up. :cheers:

Here is an alternative method:

I hit the "pwr" button and "2nd" shift button three times simultaneously to unlock the special shift points stored in the computer from the Toyota Factory. At this point I commence with 4wheel burnouts. :flipoff2:
 
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A couple questions for those that have done this:

I had a ball in the green location. Are the directions telling me to remove it? I ask because the symbol is not on the check ball. It's next to it, and I didn't have a ball in that location. In the other places where it says to remove a ball the symbol is right on the ball.

The ball I colored orange on this diagram was not present on mine. Do I need to add it?



IMG_3742.JPG
 
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