Body trim polishing & correcting compounds (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Thanks, it's part of my livelihood so hopefully I'm good at it hahaha. I've tried the synthetic clay bars before and I was pleasantly surprised. I usually use my usual claybar for the heavy nitty gritty and the synthetic pads for light duties. I have the Optimum Opti-Eraser and it works effectively, but $20 for it is a bit steep. You don't have to worry about dropping it on the ground and ruining it, but I guess I'm old-school at heart when it comes to paint prep.

In regards to wetsanding, just make sure you use the finest grit sandpaper possible 2000-2500 grit, and plenty of lube IE: soapy water. Cross-hatching patterns going in opposite directions. Just think of it as polishing on a steroidal level with a realllllly heavy cut compound!

When I worked for Jaguar and Land Rover, there were plenty of brand new vehicles with orange peel paint and other defects which customers would go crazy over... Those clear coats were super thin, luckily our trucks have been blessed with a more robust clear which may scratch relatively easy, but is easy to fix without destroying the paint job. In the end it's really just about maintenance and making sure to avoid bad cleaning habits which lead to scratches and other annoying crap. People sometimes call me crazy but I let my work speak for itself.

Come spring maybe I start a thread in the Paint and Body forum section of the site and show some of the things I do. I have to repair some rock chips in the front of my hood/filler panel below the grille (yes, it can be repainted but it's so small it'll be good to document) plus the clear coat is peeling off my rear passenger side door handle and yes, it should be repainted properly but I'd give it a go and wetsand and reclear myself first.

Keep us updated, we want to see the restoration in progress!!!

I really can't wait to see you do rock chips & re-clear. I've gotten a little better after 30 day of working whitelady's paint. 50 chip on body & 50 in door jams (most under threshold trim). A few even looked ok, but for sure all I removed the rust & effectively protected against future rust issues.

How many of you guys are running full vehicle PPF wraps? I figured with all the offroading you guys do around here, going through brush, etc. It would be super beneficial in preserving the OEM paint and not having it scratch to hell.

I work for a premium detail shop in the Chicago area and it seems like the trend is steadily picking up with more and more people wrapping full cars as soon as they get them brand new. The standard package is still either a full front or partial front, but full wraps are pretty common for us these days. Most of the high-end PPF films are self healing as well so you don't have to worry about crazy amounts of swirls marks, etc.

XPEL has a pre-cut kit for the LX and I believe the 100 LC as well which is what we used on mine, didn't do the full vehicle since it doesn't go offroad at all.

On a side note, if nothing else, I would order their pre cut headlight kits and install them after polishing and correcting your lights (to those with the later model plastic lenses). Toyota is notorious with using thin UV clear on the lenses that starts to dull and yellow as the vehicle ages because the barrier breaks down over time and the plastic is exposed to oxygen and water causing it to haze up and yellow. Applying the PPF right after sanding and polishing to a mirror finish will ensure that the yellowing never comes back (for at least 5 years or so until the film starts to go). Way cheaper than taking off your lights and having a shop re-clearcoat them, plus there's the amazing chip/pitting protection naturally offered by the film.

I still remember one of our old clients coming back last year with a 2007 IS350. We put PPF on his lights when he got the car brand new almost 10 years ago. The film was old school back then (either Avery or the old 3M I believe that sucks in quality compared to today's products). We replaced the old faded film for him with new Suntek PPF. After taking the old film off, the lenses looked BRAND NEW still. Not a single chip, zero pitting, zero yellowing. By now most people who have not protected their lights on the older IS models are probably buying new headlights at the dealer for thousands of dollars. Well worth the investment in the PPF imo.

I've been thinking I'd like to start clear wrapping leading surfaces once paint is perfected on some of these high mileage rigs. What would it cost or have done or DIY?

 

[sean2202]

Great info here thanks.

@landylover21 deserves a tremendous amount of respect for keeping his vehicle in such prestine conditions with those harsh NY winters and all of salt they put on the road there. Your father would be proud.

You said you ran your own detail buisiness. Can I get your info to recommend to family members that live in the area. Thanks.

 

[landylover21]

Great info here thanks.

@landylover21 deserves a tremendous amount of respect for keeping his vehicle in such prestine conditions with those harsh NY winters and all of salt they put on the road there. Your father would be proud.

You said you ran your own detail buisiness. Can I get your info to recommend to family members that live in the area. Thanks.

Many thanks! Yeah, it's a pain in the ass in the winter but it's worth it as I don't plan on selling this thing anytime soon!

PM me and I'll get some information and prices together for you. I've closed up shop for the season but I'll be back in mid-March.

I did a quick wash in the detail bay last night at the Yota dealership I work at... introduced myself to some of the service and detail crew who were working late as I just started here two weeks ago (I've learned my side of the house, now I gotta meet everyone in service).

My paint doesn't look the best but right now I'm (admittedly) not taking all the precautions I usually do when I wash, plus I was hauling ass because I wanted to get out before they closed the shop and I was in dress clothes! I went back to my desk and my coworker laughed and asked why I was soaking wet.

I'm probably going to do a multi-step polish some night when I get out of work early (or on a Sunday when traffic is slow and they have an available bay). I'll be sure to document it for the guys who are interested here!

 

[landylover21]

So, I did a somewhat full detail on Elsie today, plus swapped in my second set of one-piece headlight assemblies. Washed, clay-barred, did a one-step polish, and finally waxed and sealed. This took me a good four hours to do but mainly because I was taking my time and enjoying the weather today. I figure the products I used today would help others as they're easily obtainable and reasonable in price, versus my Zymol Carbon Wax which is around $50-60 for 8 oz.

First step, clay bar and clay lube. I used Clay Magic's Fine-Grade clay, usually my paint is pretty decent but I always clay before doing any polish job. Meguiar's original Quik Detailer is one of the best clay lubes and is easily found in any auto parts store.

I bought another dual-action buffer at Harbor Freight this morning mainly because 95% of my products and equipment are sitting in my mom's basement waiting for spring... plus, I didn't feel like driving out there today. It worked out well because I used a President's Day coupon so the $69.00 list price went down to around $55 or so.

I used Meguiar's Ultimate Polish and then topped it with Ultimate Liquid wax because for the everyday Joe, just like everything else in this little test, it's relatively inexpensive and easy to obtain. I usually will use Meguiar's 205 Ultimate Finishing Polish and follow that with M9 Swirl Remover, topped with Meg's 21 or Wolfgang Paint Sealant. However, because these products usually can't be found OTC, I went with something you can get at Wal-Mart, Autozone, etc.

One thing I noticed about Ultimate Polish is that it has a lot more polishing oils (fillers) than M205, which can be a good and bad thing. It's kind of like a polish and glaze in one; I usually try to use polishes that polish with abrasives and remove defects permanently rather than fill with polishing oils, but you still need some lubrication or you will get surface marring. Meguiar's Professional products (and a lot of other professional detailing chemicals) usually require a learning curve or prior experience so their consumer products make up for this in certain ways. That being said, this did pretty well and I'll probably hold onto this bottle!

Here's the hood after doing a buff with Ultimate Polish.

I went around the entire truck using overlapping passes with light pressure (let the buffer do the work). Normally I'd tape trim off but luckily these products are trim friendly and because I was only using a D/A, my trim wasn't at risked of being burned or melted.

In these instances I'll usually pull the headlights and tail lights to get a coat of wax into the cavities behind them, plus, it lets me inspect the interior of the body panels for any water ingress or other damage. The rear quarter panel on my friend's truck had started rotting from the inside out and he would've never found it if we didn't pull his tail lights.

Also pulled the license plate.

 

[landylover21]

Here's a couple close-up shots after everything was said and done. I finished up by wiping everything down with some quick wax. I probably would've milked it a bit more but my work space was flooding with melting snow water so I had to abandon ship.

Finally, I topped it with a coat of Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax (again, easily obtainable for the everyday person), and dressed my trim then called it a day!

Here are my new headlight housings installed... this is my second set of Depo one-pieces. The first ones I bought from Ranma21 a few years ago and they lasted a good two and a half years before the passenger side developed a leak and had condensation forming on the inside. I thought about getting all new OEM housings but the price was a bit more than I'd have liked to swallow, and I found these on eBay for a really good price.

The next thing on my list is to go to my friend's shop, put her on the lift and use his air-driven needle scaler to knock off the surface rust and then get everything fluid filmed.

 

[abuck99]

^ nice work, looks great.

FYI I found a good source for materials and pads from Chemical Guys. Great instructional videos and a good selection of high quality cleaners, polishes, waxes, pads, towels etc.

Car Wash, Wax, Polishes, Microfiber Towels and Best Auto Detail Supplies - Chemical Guys Professional Car Care Products - Wholesale and Retail

 

[landylover21]

I've used Chemical Guys before, but I get most of my stuff from my local vendor. It's a bit more expensive but he's never let me down and I like supporting a local business!

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

So, I did a somewhat full detail on Elsie today, plus swapped in my second set of one-piece headlight assemblies. Washed, clay-barred, did a one-step polish, and finally waxed and sealed. This took me a good four hours to do but mainly because I was taking my time and enjoying the weather today. I figure the products I used today would help others as they're easily obtainable and reasonable in price, versus my Zymol Carbon Wax which is around $50-60 for 8 oz.

First step, clay bar and clay lube. I used Clay Magic's Fine-Grade clay, usually my paint is pretty decent but I always clay before doing any polish job. Meguiar's original Quik Detailer is one of the best clay lubes and is easily found in any auto parts store.

View attachment 1405108

I bought another dual-action buffer at Harbor Freight this morning mainly because 95% of my products and equipment are sitting in my mom's basement waiting for spring... plus, I didn't feel like driving out there today. It worked out well because I used a President's Day coupon so the $69.00 list price went down to around $55 or so.

I used Meguiar's Ultimate Polish and then topped it with Ultimate Liquid wax because for the everyday Joe, just like everything else in this little test, it's relatively inexpensive and easy to obtain. I usually will use Meguiar's 205 Ultimate Finishing Polish and follow that with M9 Swirl Remover, topped with Meg's 21 or Wolfgang Paint Sealant. However, because these products usually can't be found OTC, I went with something you can get at Wal-Mart, Autozone, etc.

One thing I noticed about Ultimate Polish is that it has a lot more polishing oils (fillers) than M205, which can be a good and bad thing. It's kind of like a polish and glaze in one; I usually try to use polishes that polish with abrasives and remove defects permanently rather than fill with polishing oils, but you still need some lubrication or you will get surface marring. Meguiar's Professional products (and a lot of other professional detailing chemicals) usually require a learning curve or prior experience so their consumer products make up for this in certain ways. That being said, this did pretty well and I'll probably hold onto this bottle!

View attachment 1405110

Here's the hood after doing a buff with Ultimate Polish.

View attachment 1405114
I went around the entire truck using overlapping passes with light pressure (let the buffer do the work). Normally I'd tape trim off but luckily these products are trim friendly and because I was only using a D/A, my trim wasn't at risked of being burned or melted.

In these instances I'll usually pull the headlights and tail lights to get a coat of wax into the cavities behind them, plus, it lets me inspect the interior of the body panels for any water ingress or other damage. The rear quarter panel on my friend's truck had started rotting from the inside out and he would've never found it if we didn't pull his tail lights.

View attachment 1405122

Also pulled the license plate.

View attachment 1405123

Really nice job the shine is fantastic. I have good success with canabu wax aslong as the surface has been previously cleaned with a cleaner it works a treat.I know it doesn't last aslong as polish but finish is very nice.

 

[landylover21]

Yeah, I always top with some sort of wax or sealant (synthetic wax). Polish is mainly meant to correct the paint and wax is meant to protect. (You probably already knew that but just making sure). The terms "Polish" and "wax" have been thrown around so much that people now seem to think they're synonymous but they're not haha.

I topped it yesterday with Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax (which is technically a sealant as it's a synthetic wax).

These older clear coats are pretty hefty compared to some new paint jobs (IE Toyota, Honda, Subaru) so we are lucky in that aspect!

 

[2001LC]

@landylover21 I've seen some sealants (Ceramic, Silica, etc.) that claim to be much longer lasting and tougher than wax. Some claim to protect paint from scratches. They look time consuming and difficult to apply. What's your thoughts on these?

 

[landylover21]

@2001LC , a lot of those are gimmicks in my honest opinion. My dealership and a few others sell something called Zxilon or some crap like that and they claim it protects the paint and interior from all sorts of bombardments... I talked with the finance manager and he said the customer is paying for the warranty rather than the product.

Preparation for these products is absolutely critical because you're sealing in the paint (or so they say). Any defects or dirt on the paint will show through (or so they say), so a full buff and polish, etc. is necessary. I used to do it at Jaguar and the product they used didn't make any miracles happen and the vehicles that had it applied looked awful after their first service. You cannot wash your vehicle in an automatic car wash, have to wash it every certain number of days, and blah blah blah, it's all in the fine print.

These are "preferable" on a new car because the paint is usually clear of defects unless you have to wetsand to get rid of orange peel, dirt in the paint, etc. On a used car I'd imagine if there was the miracle cream, then preparation would take even longer mainly due to surface defects and paint correction.

I honestly haven't found any miracle product that protects for a million years, won't let tree branches scratch - let alone, improper wash jobs, and improves my gas mileage by 80% because the finish is so slippery.

Case in point, some people buy it, I don't.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks @landylover21, I'll not waste my time with the stuff.

 

[Manhattan]

@landylover21 that looks great!

I did my 100 with a ceramic paint sealant after the correction steps. I doubt it'll make a noticeable difference in scratch protection, but I'm convinced it works to keep the truck cleaner. I drove 500 miles in the rain the after it was done - hosed it off and it was spotless. I've never had a car/truck that got "clean" by hosing it off. The stuff we used (somewhat like CQuartz) does seem better? Different?

This is about a year after it was coated... well overdue for a refresh.

And this is after a trip to Home Depot:
No idea what did this... but it/they managed to put a long deep scratch and a ton of smaller scratches in the paint... in several directions

 

[landylover21]

@landylover21 that looks great!

I did my 100 with a ceramic paint sealant after the correction steps. I doubt it'll make a noticeable difference in scratch protection, but I'm convinced it works to keep the truck cleaner. I drove 500 miles in the rain the after it was done - hosed it off and it was spotless. I've never had a car/truck that got "clean" by hosing it off. The stuff we used (some what like CQuartz) does seem better? Different?

Thanks! That's been my experience with a lot of the paint treatments. Sealant is such a touchy word to use, kind of like waxes and polishes. Paint sealants that are sold to detailers are synthetic waxes, designed to be used in a WOWO fashion like Wolfgang Paint Sealant, Meguiars 21, and Chemical Guys JetSeal, and a bunch of others. The special treatments that people rave about that protect for a year are different but are still under the same name umbrella.

I considered using one of them but because I'm always cleaning my truck, it's kind of pointless with the extra expense.

I doubt there's a product that really can live up to a hose-off dirt claim mainly because you need physical agitation to remove dirt... another reason why touchless car washes don't get your car 100% clean, kind of like washing your hands without rubbing them together.

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

Ladylover 21 what do you find the best
way to take of bird droppings to prevent stains ? And when your car is dusty do you wash it or just use a chamois and wet the car.Thanks

 

[landylover21]

Ladylover 21 what do you find the best
way to take of bird droppings to prevent stains ? And when your car is dusty do you wash it or just use a chamois and wet the car.Thanks

It really depends... if the bird poo is fresh I'll use a liberal amount of quick detailing spray (NOT quick wax) and a heavy pile microfiber. I'll do this in emergency cases as well (which should be all the time seeing how bird droppings are acidic and can etch the clear). If it's really heavy I'll do a full wash if needed.

In terms of dust, if it's just a light coating I'll use a quick detailing spray (again, not quick wax) or a waterless wash product which both have the proper lubricants to suspend dirt so it doesn't scratch and a plush microfiber. If it's heavier I'll just wash it, I hate knowing there's stuff accumulating in crevices so I just wash and maintain.

California Car Dusters are another option IF they're used correctly... as in, very light passes over the paint (no scrubbing or heavy dragging), but in my opinion, if a car is that dusty then it's just safer to wash. I spend a lot of time perfecting my vehicle's paint so I don't want to screw it up by using a fifteen minute technique that can possibly induce swirls and scratches. Better safe than sorry with a proper wash than a quick dusting which can screw things up royally!

 

[Hokie LX]

Thanks! That's been my experience with a lot of the paint treatments. Sealant is such a touchy word to use, kind of like waxes and polishes. Paint sealants that are sold to detailers are synthetic waxes, designed to be used in a WOWO fashion like Wolfgang Paint Sealant, Meguiars 21, and Chemical Guys JetSeal, and a bunch of others. The special treatments that people rave about that protect for a year are different but are still under the same name umbrella.

I considered using one of them but because I'm always cleaning my truck, it's kind of pointless with the extra expense.

I doubt there's a product that really can live up to a hose-off dirt claim mainly because you need physical agitation to remove dirt... another reason why touchless car washes don't get your car 100% clean, kind of like washing your hands without rubbing them together.

I am by no means a professional, but have been detailing for about 6 years now and have been doing it as a side job for about 4. I'm an engineer by profession but still enjoy detailing for fun on the side when I can. I would highly suggest giving some of the sealants or paint coatings a try if you have the time. They are well worth the expense over traditional waxes. Occasionally I will use Collinite 845 for a budget detail if the customer wants a cheaper option or something like Wolfgang Fuzion wax for a show detail to give some warmth to certain colors and durability is not a concern.

A sealant or coating gives superior protection from both scratches caused by everday washing or rubbing as well as better water behavior. This can help prevent water spots and make sheeting water after a wash easier. I could go on, but what I was getting at was that if you have experience detailing and have the desire, coatings are well worth it!

I did a 2 step paint correction and coated by LX470 over winter break with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light and EXO (2 coats) to help protect from the Buffalo winters. I tend to wash my cars at least once a week and it makes it much easier to care for them. Usually on my more sporty cars, I do not coat them and tend to stick with sealants because I like to test new products on my personal cars before using them on customer's. Coatings definitely do not have a "rinse-clean" effect but do make it easier to clean by preventing contaminants from bonding/etching to the paint.

 

[landylover21]

@Hokie LX , nice insight on a topic that I haven't really explored in the detailing world.

I've had experience with coatings before, as mentioned earlier, the terms "sealants and coatings" gets thrown a lot like "wax and polish" to the point where people think they're synonymous which they are not.

I use sealants (synthetic waxes) offered by Zymol, Meguiars, PoorBoys, Chemical Guys, etc. ones that are applied similar to a wax-on wax-off fashion. I've used a few different coatings in the past for a few of the dealerships I've worked at and was never impressed with their durability, gloss, looks, etc.

In my opinion, a person doesn't need a fancy coating for their paint if they care for it and maintain it. I may be a bit overkill because my truck is part of my "advertising" for my business, as in, random people come up to me in parking lots and ask how old my truck is, I tell them, and the next thing I know, they're asking for my number. If paint is properly cared for, there won't be any issue with correction, or contaminants leaving their marks on paint.

That being said, coatings may be a decent option for those who are less anal, but surface preparation is key with those types of products. I guess I'm kind of old school when it comes to detailing

Me? I enjoy detailing too much to justify using a product like that as it'd be a waste of time because I wash and wax so often haha

But that's just my .02

 

[Hokie LX]

@Hokie LX , nice insight on a topic that I haven't really explored in the detailing world.

I've had experience with coatings before, as mentioned earlier, the terms "sealants and coatings" gets thrown a lot like "wax and polish" to the point where people think they're synonymous which they are not.

I use sealants (synthetic waxes) offered by Zymol, Meguiars, PoorBoys, Chemical Guys, etc. ones that are applied similar to a wax-on wax-off fashion. I've used a few different coatings in the past for a few of the dealerships I've worked at and was never impressed with their durability, gloss, looks, etc.

In my opinion, a person doesn't need a fancy coating for their paint if they care for it and maintain it. I may be a bit overkill because my truck is part of my "advertising" for my business, as in, random people come up to me in parking lots and ask how old my truck is, I tell them, and the next thing I know, they're asking for my number. If paint is properly cared for, there won't be any issue with correction, or contaminants leaving their marks on paint.

That being said, coatings may be a decent option for those who are less anal, but surface preparation is key with those types of products. I guess I'm kind of old school when it comes to detailing

Me? I enjoy detailing too much to justify using a product like that as it'd be a waste of time because I wash and wax so often haha

But that's just my .02

To each their own. My only comment would be that dealers do not use "good" coatings and also rarely prep and apply them properly so they aren't great representations of what a coating truly is. They are generally more gimmicky and do not perform to the standard of those offered by Gtechniq, Cquartz, Modesta, Opti-Coat.

Coatings are by no means a necessity. They just allow a person (customer) to enjoy their freshly detailed paint for the longest amount of time possible while providing protection with minimal maintenance on their part. My LX470 was the first personal car of mine that I have coated and only did so because of the harsh winters here. For instance I recently detailed and coated my mother's new BMW 328d and the coating is perfect for her because she doesn't wash her car or care to wax it often so the coating allows her car to look tip top for years to come with a simple wash!

Old school definitely isn't a bad thing by any means! I'm just happy that there are some detailing enthusiasts on this forum besides me who are willing to help others.

 

[landylover21]

I hear you there! I mainly posted to inform others of a relatively decent and easily obtainable product that doesn't require a learning curve like most professional products I've used.

On the other hand, buffing is something that people can't learn overnight but with the proper equipment, training, and time, it can really make a difference.

Now that I think of it, shouldn't this be moved to the Paint and Body forum?