Body trim polishing & correcting compounds

[Ali FJ80]

you can always lightly wetsand and then

On hood, I tried the aggressive red clay, then lacquer thinner, clean with window cleaner, then red clay again. This was on one spot on hood that had already been rubbed 7 times with Maguire's (megs) blue clay, buffet with megs DA micro fiber correcting compound with a extra cut micro fiber DA pads.

This picture is of the worst spot on roof. I tried to catch in a picture, it takes just the right angle to see. If I knew what it is that would help.
I've seen stuff for iron at autogeeks but I just don't know?????
View attachment 1332644 View attachment 1332645

you can try wetsanding and polishing. be careful not to over do it or you will need new clear coat.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks Ali, wet sanding is certainly a option, but a scary one I'd like to avoid.

I'd like to try a decontaminator first. I've looked all over town for a chemical Iron remover (paint decontaminator) If you can think of anyone local please let me know. Perhaps your detailer knows someone?

Rich mention it could be overspray, which would have had to of happened before my time over 13 years ago. If that's the case wet sanding may be my only option. In that case I'd probable just live with it, since it will shine pretty darn good anyway.

But if it is a contaminate like iron, well I'd like to find out now. My concern is the contaminate will keep working in, ruining the paint. If it's iron, that is imbedded into surface of paint, these so called iron removes will show it by changing color, then I'll know what I'm dealing with. Some clear coat & paint safe wheel cleaner my have some of this chemical iron remove in them. Wheel clean is my last choice for this weekend, but a poor one as I may give a false read. That is to say no color change, when iron is present. Unless I can find one of the below product in town, I' stuck for yet one more week.

I've been calling around looking for someone local, a store or wholesaler that carries acid free decontaminate like:
CarPro Iron X or Iron X Snow Soap by CarPro
Mckees 37 Xtreme Iron Remover
Dudo Juice Ferrous Dueller Iron Remover
Optimum FerreX Iron remover
Britemax Iron Max Iron Remover

I found many products for Iron removal., but I can't find a one in town.



McKee37 Xterme Iron remover at work

 

[jerryb]

I tried lacquer thinner and a reclay. I don't have aggressive clay just regular detail yellow stuff, and blue something that I don't like.
Throttle body cleaner, then 3m rubbing compound on a foam buffer. The stripe laughed at me. I'm about done with it.
I'm taking it to the paint shop soon so I'm leaving it to them.
Thanks for the info, I've never seen this kid of thing before. Stickers and stripes have always just erased right off the car on everything I've had in the past.

 

[2001LC]

Well @landylover21 & @Ali FJ80 you're both right. It must be overspray that's been on my paint a very long time. I found the left quarter panel has had some "B" grade paint work, which is probably where/when overspray came from. Wet sanding is only thing I've not tried, but feel your right Ali.

Where I've reduced the bumps/specs there still present in the paint. I've used everything including IronX & Fallout remover, but bump/specs persist. I'm reasonable sure it's not a contaminant eating at my paint at this point, so I'll let it go for now.

I ended up using a polish compound between cutting and finish waxing. Not a usual step with the DA Microfiber system, but after IronX I felt it best to do a final cleaning/polishing before finish waxing. The polishing made the paint pop... finally..

The finish did turn out like a mirror from cleaning and rubbing so much. So much so, I actually found myself using the hood as a mirror to drive, a bit disorienting.

I don't have any good pictures yet, but this one gives a glimpse of paints final condition:

 

[2001LC]

 

[Dannyboy lx470]

Guys just question what is the best thing to take off bird droppings.Im carefull to take it of the car asap or else it stains and using a wet chamois carefully.

 

[landylover21]

If you can't wash it right away, a liberal amount of quick detailing spray (not spray wax) and a plush microfiber cloth will take care of it.

Be careful of spray waxes, as they're different than quick detailers... quick detailers have lubricants in them which suspend the dirt, spray waxes are meant only to be used on clean paint!

 

[2001LC]

@landylover21 I need some help here on my best course of action?

I'll be perfecting the paint on my newest restoration project. It looks like (need to clean) color may have worn or fade differently from end to end on pinstripe. I'm not sure what will happen to stripe, when I use my 5" DA micro fiber with cutting compound. I'm concerned I'll damage it; removing in spots, leave an indentation or color variation in finish product if it's removed.
Are these factory painted on?
Is pinstripe just on the top of paint?
What can use to remove if I need or want to?

 

[landylover21]

@landylover21 I need some help here on my best course of action?

I'll be perfecting the paint on my newest restoration project. It looks like (need to clean) color may have worn or fade differently from end to end on pin strip. I'm not sure what will happen to strip, when I use my 5" DA micro fiber with cutting compound. I'm concerned I'll damage it; removing in spots, leave an indentation or color variation in finish product if it's removed.
Are these factory painted on?
Is strip just on the top of paint?
What can use to remove if I need or want to?

View attachment 1396139

It's hard to tell but those may come off relatively easy with a 3M eraser wheel. Are you trying to remove them or just prevent further damage to them, because at this point you might as well take them all off. Wetsanding is the other option if they're painted on.

I'd give it a good wash, claybar, and assess the overall condition of the paint. You'll be buffing from stem to stern either way, but if wetsanding is involved, then you'll be able to concentrate on that striped area. Be careful if they are painted on as sometimes I've seen them stain the clear coat and only more wetsanding and buffing is required.

Also, be careful of the "ghosting" effect that 95% of the cars with pinstripes taken off are afflicted with. Usually that is permanent, but sometimes can be alleviated with some heavy-duty, multi-step buffing initially with a heavy cut compound.

Let me know how things go.

Rich

 

[Greenbean]

Mine came off the rear sections when I was pressure washing my seats belts, ha!

I'm probably going to just pressure wash the remaining off, they were just a paint stripe/sticker.

I'm sure I'll be rubbing some compound afterwards as well.

 

[2001LC]

It's hard to tell but those may come off relatively easy with a 3M eraser wheel. Are you trying to remove them or just prevent further damage to them, because at this point you might as well take them all off. Wetsanding is the other option if they're painted on.

I'd give it a good wash, claybar, and assess the overall condition of the paint. You'll be buffing from stem to stern either way, but if wetsanding is involved, then you'll be able to concentrate on that striped area. Be careful if they are painted on as sometimes I've seen them stain the clear coat and only more wetsanding and buffing is required.

Also, be careful of the "ghosting" effect that 95% of the cars with pinstripes taken off are afflicted with. Usually that is permanent, but sometimes can be alleviated with some heavy-duty, multi-step buffing initially with a heavy cut compound.

Let me know how things go.

Rich

Good question & advise, thanks Rich.

I'd keep pinstripes if they hold-up to cutting compound. I suppose I could tape if I see good color consistence throughout. Not that I care either way. I am concerned with ending up with a ghost imagine. Which, as you said, if they're painted on it's likely. It does appear laid over factory clear coat on closer inspection. But I can't yet tell if it is a tape or paint. I can tell it's been on a very long time, probably since 1st owner purchased.

I have no idea if these pinstripes were a factory or Dealer option?
If factory, I'd think would give great chance of ghost imagine.

I did a lite wash this weekend, as part of overall of cosmetic and mechanical evaluation. Appears it's not been cleaned or waxed in a very long time, and will need additional washings. I can however see it will need a heavy cut. Color consistence of pinstripe looks a bit better after cleaning, but not good enough yet. Depending I what I find on next wash, with dish soap too strip. I may use an environmental chemical cleaning before clay.

If pinstripes color consistence or condition not acceptable at that point, the eraser will be next. On the other hand, if color acceptable I'll hit with cutting compound. If pinstripe holds up to cut, great, if not eraser will save time.

I follow your recommendation using least aggressive first, as always. But I really hope I don't need to wet sandy.

Mine came off the rear sections when I was pressure washing my seats belts, ha!

I'm probably going to just pressure wash the remaining off, they were just a paint stripe/sticker.

I'm sure I'll be rubbing some compound afterwards as well.

Good to know, thanks!

Mine held up to my first high pressure wash, next time I'll try to wash off. I'll be happy to remove if a taped on pinstripe.

 

[landylover21]

Good question & advise, thanks Rich.

I'd keep pinstripes if they hold-up to cutting compound. I suppose I could tape if I see good color consistence throughout. Not that I care either way. I am concerned with ending up with a ghost imagine. Which, as you said, if they're painted on it's likely. It does appear laid over factory clear coat on closer inspection. But I can't yet tell if it is a tape or paint. I can tell it's been on a very long time, probably since 1st owner purchased.

I have no idea if these pinstripes were a factory or Dealer option?
If factory, I'd think would give great chance of ghost imagine.

I did a lite wash this weekend, as part of overall of cosmetic and mechanical evaluation. Appears it's not been cleaned or waxed in a very long time, and will need additional washings. I can however see it will need a heavy cut. Color consistence of pinstripe looks a bit better after cleaning, but not good enough yet. Depending I what I find on next wash, with dish soap too strip. I may use an environmental chemical cleaning before clay.

If pinstripes color consistence or condition not acceptable at that point, the eraser will be next. On the other hand, if color acceptable I'll hit with cutting compound. If pinstripe holds up to cut, great, if not eraser will save time.

I follow your recommendation using least aggressive first, as always. But I really hope I don't need to wet sandy.


Good to know, thanks!

Mine held up to my first high pressure wash, next time I'll try to wash off. I'll be happy to remove if a taped on pinstripe.

Wetsanding really isn't as bad as some people think it is! If they're that bad now, I'd just remove them, but that's just me! Let us know!

 

[2001LC]

Wetsanding really isn't as bad as some people think it is! If they're that bad now, I'd just remove them, but that's just me! Let us know!

It's just the clear cost is so thin it scares me.

 

[landylover21]

If it's done right you'll have nothing to worry about. I've done work on Jaguars and talk about thin clear coat, a piece of dust will scratch them... I was nervous working on them, but with the right pressure, plenty of soapy water, I did okay haha.

 

[benjawi4]

If it's done right you'll have nothing to worry about. I've done work on Jaguars and talk about thin clear coat, a piece of dust will scratch them... I was nervous working on them, but with the right pressure, plenty of soapy water, I did okay haha.

Ever use this nanoskin autoscrub pad as a quicker alternative to the traditional clay bar? If you recommend it I'll probably invest the $45 to buy one...seems like it'd shave a good deal of time off a weekend detailing job.

 

[landylover21]

@benjawi4, never seen one before, so not sure of its effectiveness. To me, pulling bits of contaminants off the paint and continuously swirling them around my clearcoat kind of scares me. Claybars and a clay lube (quick detailers) are cheap enough for me haha.

 

[RND1]

Subscribed

Can't wait to see @2001LC 's paint look as good as @landylover21 's LC. Please post lots of pics with products used!

 

[2001LC]

If it's done right you'll have nothing to worry about. I've done work on Jaguars and talk about thin clear coat, a piece of dust will scratch them... I was nervous working on them, but with the right pressure, plenty of soapy water, I did okay haha.

The King (01LC) needs wet sanding due to over spray, as you and @Ali FJ80 suspected last summer. I've held off on that job, as it looks good. Perhaps this one will be my first restoration wet sand.

@benjawi4 my clay-bars are the older blue (medium) & red (aggressive) clay. When it's time to replace I'll probable get the newer synthetic clay, seem about all that's around these days. But I'll stick with the clay & Quick Detailers like @landylover21 said. It really doesn't take long at all to clay.

@RND1 for sure I will post lots of pictures. But no way It will be as nice as @landylover21, He is the master.

 

[landylover21]

The King (01LC) needs wet sanding due to over spray, as you and @Ali FJ80 suspected last summer. I've held off on that job, as it looks good. Perhaps this one will be my first restoration wet sand.

@benjawi4 my clay-bars are the older blue (medium) & red (aggressive) clay. When it's time to replace I'll probable get the newer synthetic clay, seem about all that's around these days. But I'll stick with the clay & Quick Detailers like @landylover21 said. It really doesn't take long at all to clay.

@RND1 for sure I will post lots of pictures. But no way It will be as nice as @landylover21, He is the master.

Thanks, it's part of my livelihood so hopefully I'm good at it hahaha. I've tried the synthetic clay bars before and I was pleasantly surprised. I usually use my usual claybar for the heavy nitty gritty and the synthetic pads for light duties. I have the Optimum Opti-Eraser and it works effectively, but $20 for it is a bit steep. You don't have to worry about dropping it on the ground and ruining it, but I guess I'm old-school at heart when it comes to paint prep.

In regards to wetsanding, just make sure you use the finest grit sandpaper possible 2000-2500 grit, and plenty of lube IE: soapy water. Cross-hatching patterns going in opposite directions. Just think of it as polishing on a steroidal level with a realllllly heavy cut compound!

When I worked for Jaguar and Land Rover, there were plenty of brand new vehicles with orange peel paint and other defects which customers would go crazy over... Those clear coats were super thin, luckily our trucks have been blessed with a more robust clear which may scratch relatively easy, but is easy to fix without destroying the paint job. In the end it's really just about maintenance and making sure to avoid bad cleaning habits which lead to scratches and other annoying crap. People sometimes call me crazy but I let my work speak for itself.

Come spring maybe I start a thread in the Paint and Body forum section of the site and show some of the things I do. I have to repair some rock chips in the front of my hood/filler panel below the grille (yes, it can be repainted but it's so small it'll be good to document) plus the clear coat is peeling off my rear passenger side door handle and yes, it should be repainted properly but I'd give it a go and wetsand and reclear myself first.

Keep us updated, we want to see the restoration in progress!!!

 

[Kabanstva]

How many of you guys are running full vehicle PPF wraps? I figured with all the offroading you guys do around here, going through brush, etc. It would be super beneficial in preserving the OEM paint and not having it scratch to hell.

I work for a premium detail shop in the Chicago area and it seems like the trend is steadily picking up with more and more people wrapping full cars as soon as they get them brand new. The standard package is still either a full front or partial front, but full wraps are pretty common for us these days. Most of the high-end PPF films are self healing as well so you don't have to worry about crazy amounts of swirls marks, etc.

XPEL has a pre-cut kit for the LX and I believe the 100 LC as well which is what we used on mine, didn't do the full vehicle since it doesn't go offroad at all.

On a side note, if nothing else, I would order their pre cut headlight kits and install them after polishing and correcting your lights (to those with the later model plastic lenses). Toyota is notorious with using thin UV clear on the lenses that starts to dull and yellow as the vehicle ages because the barrier breaks down over time and the plastic is exposed to oxygen and water causing it to haze up and yellow. Applying the PPF right after sanding and polishing to a mirror finish will ensure that the yellowing never comes back (for at least 5 years or so until the film starts to go). Way cheaper than taking off your lights and having a shop re-clearcoat them, plus there's the amazing chip/pitting protection naturally offered by the film.

I still remember one of our old clients coming back last year with a 2007 IS350. We put PPF on his lights when he got the car brand new almost 10 years ago. The film was old school back then (either Avery or the old 3M I believe that sucks in quality compared to today's products). We replaced the old faded film for him with new Suntek PPF. After taking the old film off, the lenses looked BRAND NEW still. Not a single chip, zero pitting, zero yellowing. By now most people who have not protected their lights on the older IS models are probably buying new headlights at the dealer for thousands of dollars. Well worth the investment in the PPF imo.