Body trim polishing & correcting compounds

[camino70]

I'm not a fan of wash media that is stored/displayed open to the elements, allowing dirt in.

Are you sure you want to keep walking over the ledge?

If your unsure if the media is marring or swirling your paint, there is the CD test. Use the media on your CD as you would on your paint, ie wet with shampoo or dry with spray wax, to ensure it doesn't mark the CD.

 

[landylover21]

Great info thank you.

Is it necessary to use a primer before the base coat (pearl two part) paint?
If so which primer is best?
What is the best way to apply clear coat?

You only indicate sanding and buffing as needed after clear coat. Is sanding or buffing after base coat then again after top coat, prior to clear coat advisable?

DA buffing using correction compound help remove light rust and grim. This helped too reveal what needs grinding out. Not this job, but in some cases I've found pin hold chips with rust spot the size of a quarter hidden underneath.
looks as I've just a little more rust to get out of this spot:
View attachment 1259206
Most are not this large but here is one shot of 4 chips.
View attachment 1259088 View attachment 1259089

Here's a few of the grinding & cutting bits I'm using:
View attachment 1259101
This works well for a hard to reach spot:
View attachment 1259100

Glad to hear the info has been of some use!

In regards to the primer, when you are down to bare metal in large patches as you are, I'd definitely put a thin coat of primer before the base coat. You will need to sand lightly in between layers, being careful not to take off the previous layer of primer/paint, etc. This is to allow the repaired area to be as level as possible with the surrounding paint. Any duplicolor primer will do the job.

Apply the clearcoat with a small brush, preferably smaller than the ones provided with the bottles, and try to get an even layer, this is where the wet sanding will come into play after multiple coats have dried. This is the most finicky part because if you screw up the sanding you have to remove the clearcoat, and potentially your previous layers of paint and start over.

Last but not least, and you know this, take your time and if you have to do multiple layers than do that rather than a huge glob of paint/clear. Let each layer dry completely, I've seen many of my techs from my old job do all this work, go for the final wetsand, and end up with a goopy mess that they have to redo entirely. I've used heat guns in the past to expedite the process, but be careful on trim pieces and making sure it's far enough away. Because those larger chips are pretty deep, it shouldn't be too hard to level things out with the final wetsanding job. It's those tiny scratches that are a true PITA!

On some body panels if the rust is bad enough, it's best to have the entire body panel resprayed and blended (obviously), but that's a last resort thing and you seem pretty invested in this job, which I applaud you for .

In regards to the Wally-World microfibers, as long as they aren't part of the 25 pack for $3 you should (keyword: should) be okay. I tend to be a towel nazi so I haven't really seen what they have to offer there to be honest.

I tend to get new towels at the end of the year and use the old ones for interior or engine work. I keep all the older ones with the older ones in a laundry bag and have separate bags for towels for each function, IE: waxing, drying, etc.

Keep us posted, let me know if you need any other help.

Rich

 

[2001LC]

Thanks Rich, that is some truly valuable info.

@Camino I'll not always have a blower at hand, so I like to keep a drying towel with me. If you'll look at picture, only one of those micro fiber towels' is for drying the painted surfaces, the thickest softest one. So I'm not to concerned with walking off that ledge.

 

[camino70]

2001LC,
This is how I picture you to wash your trucks:

Courtesy accumulator at autopia
Accumulator's Non-Marring Wash Technique [Archive] - Autopia Forum - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum

"Supplies: two hoses (one for each side of vehicle), rubber coated nozzles and easy to use (with one hand) shutoffs for each hose, five buckets (two wash, two rinse one set for each side of vehicle, and one for used mitts), several chenille wash mitts (the more the better), and some Griots Car Wash. Optional: MF mitts, additional (long) hose with a shower-foam gun attached (filled with an eyeballed mix of Griots wash solution and set on full strength mix).

The separate systems for each side of the vehicle make this labor-intensive method easier and a little quicker, but are not absolutely necessary.

Mix the wash solution to your preferred strength. In the buckets or in the shower-foam gun, I just do it by eye, but I make it plenty strong. Try to NOT make a bunch of foamy suds- make solution, not foam. Fill your rinse buckets with clear water.

Begin by rinsing the entire vehicle thoroughly. Try to rinse off as much dirt as possible. Start washing at the top of the vehicle as follows:

With the water shut off (this is why you need the easy to use shutoffs), put the nozzle INSIDE a clean wash mitt. Dunk the mitt into the wash solution, trying to get as much solution as possible in the mitt. Hold the soapy mitt over the finish with the knap of the mitt barely touching the finish. Turn the water on just slightly. You want the water to lubricate the surface and rinse away loosened dirt, but you do NOT want so much water that you overly dilute the wash solution in the mitt. Sweep the soapy mitt over the finish, barely touching it. Dont do too large an area. Put the mitt in your rinse bucket and turn the water on full blast to rinse it out. Turn off the water. Repeat until youve cleaned the panel. Remove the nozzle from the mitt and rinse the panel. Inspect. Repeat as needed. If at any time you notice ANY contamination in the mitt that doesnt rinse out; toss the dirty mitt in the “mitt bucket" and switch to a clean mitt. Optional: rewash the presumably clean surface using a MF mitt and rinse.

Always endeavor to just barely touch the surface. This takes a little practice, especially on the vertical panels. Dont start to “cheat" by covering bigger and bigger areas as you go or by using a mitt once its visibly contaminated. Add more Car Wash to the wash bucket if you notice its getting diluted. Periodically, rinse the entire vehicle, keeping it wet so you dont get water spots, and dump and refill the rinse buckets

Optional (highly recommended if the vehicle is especially dirty): put the nozzle of the shower-foam gun inside the mitt for the first passes, blasting foamy wash solution through the mitt. Watch that you dont rub the mitt against the finish with the rigid nozzle of the shower-foam gun (this is another technique that takes a while to master). Then rinse and rewash using the “regular metho explained above."

 

[2001LC]

Your funny.

 

[camino70]

Funny cause I'm right!

 

[bucfl]

lol...dang! Thats a bit over kill.

 

[Manhattan]

That seems like the perfect method...
to wash this:

But for trucks that see weather, driving... then, there are the trails with dirt, branches... I gotta agree with @bucfl on this one - a little over the top.

 

[2001LC]

Used Maguire's micro fiber DA pads, correcting compound and wax, turned out nice. Still working some of the larger paint chip, having a difficult time getting touchup paint to blend, but have removed ever spec of rust PITA.

 

[Manhattan]

^Looks good!^

 

[LBridges]

Don't have all that much to share here, but a few years back I found and saved a chart that showed the relative abrasiveness of the various polishing compounds on the market. Thought it might be of some interest so I put it on the net (not sure how to put it online here, or if I should even try).

PDF file

 

[2001LC]

I need some thing to clean the paint?

I'm working on my 01LC that I've had for many years. It has something in the paint barley visible, but I can feel it. I've cleaned with TurtleWax hi PH solution (junk) mixed double strength, used a clay bar repeatedly (just the regular old stuff had for over 5 years) and DA'd with micro fiber correction compound/cutting pad and it is still in the paint.

With plastic bag over finger tip it is bumpy. With just the right light I can see specs.

What can I do to get it really clean? Perhaps aggressive clay or some chemicals???

 

[landylover21]

I need some thing to clean the paint?

I working on my 01LC that I've had for many years. It has something in the paint barley visible, but can feel it. I've cleaned with TurtleWax hi PH solution (junk) mixed double strength, used a clay bar repeatedly (just the regular old stuff had for over 5 years) and DA'd with micro fiber correction compound/cutting pad and it is still in the paint.

With plastic bag over finger tip it is bumpy. With just the right light I can see specs.

What can I do to get it really clean? Perhaps aggressive clay or some chemicals???

You sure it hasn't been repainted and those bumps aren't dirt under the paint? Did a customer vehicle a few years ago who said their car was never repainted but the hood was littered with bumps... Turns out their hood was repainted and he didn't even know. Depending on how bad it is, more aggressive clay can help. Usually it's best practice to make sure the surface is as smooth as possible before buffing to make sure all that s*** has been pulled out of the paint. You might want to step it up to a rotary with a wool pad for a bit more bite (if you know what you're doing). The clearcoat is relatively soft, as with all Toyota's, unlike my '92 Benz which was the complete opposite - hard as a rock.

On a similar note, I detailed the Beast a few weeks back, found a tiny patch of rust at the rear wheel well where the plastic cladding from the running boards was hiding it, was quoted $550 to cut out the sheetmetal, fabricate, paint, blend, and clear the surrounding area. It's nothing serious but it's something I have to take care of.

I'm closing up shop for the season soon, fall is here and it's only going to get colder!

Let us know how it works out for you, if you need my help feel free to PM me and I can try to help without clogging up the threads here.

 

[jerryb]

could I ask a question? I don't mean to interrupt your thread
I've eraser wheeled my pinstripes and clayed extensively (extra) on the stripe area. The metallic part of the stipe came off easily. Underneath that layer is the blue part of the stripe. That seems to be melted into the paint.
There are areas where the stripe came off completely, like under the side mirrors, edges of panels, anywhere where heat was scarce, or where originally application might have got less pressure being applied.
I'm wondering if there is anything I can do to get the rest of the stripes off, being an amateur detailer I wasn't going to go any further than wash-wheel-clay-wax.
is it possible for the blue color in the stripe to melt into the paint? 10 years texas sun?
I assumed I would have to spend 150 on tools and products to take that off and also risk some damage with my ignorance.
Correct?

 

[landylover21]

@jerryb, I'd go over it with a claybar again and then try some throttle body cleaner or lacquer thinner (sparingly) in an inconspicuous place. Wipe the area down afterwards with a damp microfiber to remove any alcohol residue. After that you can hand polish with a mild cut polish and seal it up with wax. If you are comfortable using a buffer then by all means, but if you're an amateur detailer then I'd leave that to a pro.

Keep in mind, those areas where it's really baked in may have a ghosted appearance where the stripe used to be, though, if the other areas weren't too bad I wouldn't worry about it.

Let us know!

Rich

 

[jerryb]

thank you Sir. I will try that when I get back next week. I'll update with info.

 

[2001LC]

You sure it hasn't been repainted and those bumps aren't dirt under the paint? Did a customer vehicle a few years ago who said their car was never repainted but the hood was littered with bumps... Turns out their hood was repainted and he didn't even know. Depending on how bad it is, more aggressive clay can help. Usually it's best practice to make sure the surface is as smooth as possible before buffing to make sure all that s*** has been pulled out of the paint. You might want to step it up to a rotary with a wool pad for a bit more bite (if you know what you're doing). The clearcoat is relatively soft, as with all Toyota's, unlike my '92 Benz which was the complete opposite - hard as a rock.

On a similar note, I detailed the Beast a few weeks back, found a tiny patch of rust at the rear wheel well where the plastic cladding from the running boards was hiding it, was quoted $550 to cut out the sheetmetal, fabricate, paint, blend, and clear the surrounding area. It's nothing serious but it's something I have to take care of.

View attachment 1332303

I'm closing up shop for the season soon, fall is here and it's only going to get colder!

Let us know how it works out for you, if you need my help feel free to PM me and I can try to help without clogging up the threads here.

Rich that Mahogany Pearl LC looks great, you do good work.

I did clean the best I could, before decided to see if cutting compound would do the trick ..NoDa.

I'll pick up some red clay (Aggressive) and see what happens.

Thanks Rich.

 

[2001LC]

On hood, I tried the aggressive red clay, then lacquer thinner, clean with window cleaner, then red clay again. This was on one spot on hood that had already been rubbed 7 times with Maguire's (megs) blue clay, buffet with megs DA micro fiber correcting compound with a extra cut micro fiber DA pads.

This picture is of the worst spot on roof. I tried to catch in a picture, it takes just the right angle to see. If I knew what it is that would help.
I've seen stuff for iron at autogeeks but I just don't know?????

 

[landylover21]

It almost looks like dirt in the paint, the thing about pics is that is so hard to tell what is what.

With age, all paint degrades, the hood on my truck is checked in some areas just due to the heat and age. Nothing major but something to keep in mind; it may just be something you have to live with if none of that stuff took it out.

 

[2001LC]

Yeah, I may have to live with it, I've only myself to blame.

I've kept my Land Cruiser clean and garaged. But I should have taken more care, by hand waxing over the years on a bi monthly basis not bi annually. I'm going to see if I can find some type of paint decontaminator product locally, and use before waxing. Winters coming so I'm winding up auto work for the year as well. I need too get my girl friends smaller MDX SUV's done as well, while I have some decent weather.

I've taken rust preventive action and de-rust frontend around headlights, molding under the grill, leading edge of hood & below windshield molding. I'm also going to pulling windshield and de-rust, something I now believe we'll all need to do sooner or later. If rust is past minor grinding, I'll need a body shop's help, in re-tin and paint.