Blue fan clutch mod...Thread has gone to hell, read at your own risk (6 Viewers)

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cruiserdan said:
Why the hell didn't you ask me that when we were talking about the pump?

shakes head, not understanding Ken's thought process


I have it in stock and I could have included it with the pump.

08816-10001

I thought you were the SHAMAN who knows what you need before you call:D I wasn't thinking about the blue clutch fan mod at the time. I didn't think about it until today when I was looking at the crank pully.

Thanks for the part number.
 
Romer said:
I get the feeking the consensus for a SC truck is the 10K stuff. So I can be clear, what exactly do I look for and where do I go and buy this.

so i'm guessing while I was away you grabbed a supercharger. congrats! did you feed dan's dogs or find one used?
 
just an update on this. I added a full tube of 10,000 cst (18 ml) tonight after subtracting about half a tube of the original stuff. This brought it up to the bottom of the drive plate.

I also reset the clutch plate. After I set it at 95 half open i cooled and reheated and the darn thing didn't start to open to 105. So I reset it fully open at 100.

test drive tomorrow and big test this weekend
 
ok just went 2200 miles in 48 hours from vancouver to wyoming and back mostly on I90 with the 1100 mile return trip towing a boat with a truck and trailer combined weight of 9878 lbs and i think i can comment. I crossed something like 7 mountain passes each way from sea level to 6300 feet and many places in between.

it works. no matter what i did, it never went over 212. It seems to kick in around 206. it only went over 210 once, climbing out from the columbia river westbound on i-90 in 75 degree temps running over 3000 rpm for what seemed like a 5 mile 6% uphill grade ?? with the boat on the back I never dropped below 50 mph but at the top the temp touched 212.

with no boat on the back eastbound it really worked great. I had the experience of climbing up snoqualmie pass eastbound (a long 6%ish uphill grade) running at 3200 rpm and all of a sudden at about 209 on the temp gauge the fan really kicked in and the temp actually dropped down to 206 with no change in speed, rpm or grade. the truck got up to maybe 210 at the most on hills and it was quick to drop down to below 206. mileage thoughwas definitely lower than my last similar roadtrip by about 2-3 mpg. Part could be tire pressure at 38 instead of 44 psi and also running a little faster, but I'm pretty sure the fan is at least 1 mpg.

with the boat on the back it was also good. I found I could run the truck at 3-4000 rpm on a sustained basis if i wanted to without going over 210 and I was able to average close to 60 mph over 1100 miles on a very hilly interstate where I never went over 75 mph anywhere and rarely got to 70.

however, with that much boat on the back the truck is a dog with the fan clutch engaged and it seems to use about 200-400 rpm worth of power to turn it. the longer you run up and down a lot of hills the slower the fan is to cool and disengage between climbs goes and after a while you get a negative feedback loop where the fact the fan is engaged robs you of power so you have to run at higher rpm to maintain highway speeds on flats or even downhill which in turn keeps the engine hot and prevents the fan from ever cooling enough between climbs to disengage!

The first time this happened I ran about 40 miles thinking there was some kind of optical illusion and when the road looked like it was going down it was really going slightly uphill. the only thing i noticed was that the temp was stuck at about 208 and would not go down. then i stopped for gas and food and this was long enough to cool the fan clutch and suddenly I could run on exactly the same grade at a comfy 2100 rpm at 60 that I had been running at 2400-3000 rpm at 55-60 before i stopped.

And yes I was very careful when I used the overdrive towing. I would turn it off if there was any sign of lugging, but the temp gauge shows that almost coasting with light throttle at about 2000 rpm downhill in overdrive is definitely the fastest way to cool down the engine.

The only way I think you could fix this is maybe with a lighter grade of oil (I am at 6500 cst) but then you would sacrifice an unknown amount of cooling effect. The real trick is not to try to tow 4000 lbs of boat over 7 mountain passes while trying to maintain 60 mph ;)
 
Finally sat down and read this whole thread, great read, I wish I had done this sooner, I am at the point of ordering fluid, and question is what weight? My 80 spends 99.9% of its time in either GA or FL, subtropical, not quite as hot as AZ but warmer than MA,

my 80 is my daily driver, 24hrs plus of down time is not something I want to repeat, As I was reading I had decided on opening up with both barrels, 95* adjustment and 10k oil, seams that as long as it is not overfilled then the10K has no power robbing effect when the clutch is “off” when it is needed it will be more of a drag on the engine than other weights but I'll give up the mileage/power as cooling has priority over power and mileage.

Then I read Semlins last post, and that throws a monkey wrench in the works, this negative feedback idea does not sit well with me,

I have the new style Aisin blue hub with the two areas without fins, it is about 2 years old, so I figure on full oil drain and refill, how much oil do I need to order to fill or come very close to filling the reservoir from completely drained?
 
you need two tubes. if you are starting over you can mix 3000 and 10000 as last i checked dan had 6000 cst back ordered.

i will use two fan clutches from now on. one for hauling and road trips. one for in town and winter. my gas mileage is down by 1 to 2 mpg in town at the moment even though the temp gauge is centred so just the heavier fluid robs you of power. i am going to use the old fan clutch around town.
 
As of right now I'm still running the 5k RC diff oil. Probably will all winter. The truck gets put back in service in a month so I'll have better MPG numbers then.

I have 2 tubes of 6k on the bench if you need to borrow some.
 
Mine is 10K and stock valve setting, the performance and mileage are very good. If I were to do it again I would shoot for 7500 cst. The only time that it roars is after it's allowed to set and idle, then only for a few seconds after the revs are brought up. A couple of locals went 7500 cst and have reported good early results, unfortunately they were done late in the season and only saw a few 110F+ days.

Semlin, is your truck S/C? There is something else going on with them, possibly with the fan/radiator/shroud relationship, they don't respond to better clutches the same way.
 
I have a wrenching bout coming up, been putting to many things off, I was going to add this to the list, on second thought maybe it would be better to just wait until spring,
 
no s/c here. it works fine although it seems like it kicks in later than some of you and the mileage sucks. i don't think i would notice the power loss when the fan is engaged unless i was towing.
 
what's out of whack?
 
how your truck's temp is responding to the mod. I drag my 3500lb trailer and never get that hot now. And with no trailer you are seeing temps of 209. Seems to be running hotter than mine by quite a bit.
 
interesting, I'll go over my cooling system again but i'm not sure my fan is behaving differently so much as an apples and oranges situation on road tests and fan adjustment.

my temp gauge is dead centre in town and rises only a needle width or two on the highway unless it's going uphill but RT's tests indicate my 93 gauge calibrates slightly cooler than your 97.

I think though that the main difference in results is because, despite my best efforts, i have later fan engagement than you. i only seem to see it around 206-9, at which point it works great and stops temp increases "cold" ;) .

I confess i have had a heck of a time adjusting the fan clutch. twice when i have reheated it to test it after setting the openings it opened many degrees later than i had just set it. i am assuming now that when i set it the last time fully open at 100 in frustration I didn't actually get that. it may be the fact i am using a gas stove or something or maybe my thermometer is bad, I don't know.

as for your not seeing the same temp gains with towing your boat, you won't if your clutch engages sooner. mine held it steady once it kicked in. and on your not seeing the feedback loop, the extra 1000+ lbs i was pulling is nothing to sneeze at, and all those passes and me running the truck fairly hard to make time was as tough a test as I'll ever put the truck through, and it took most of montana for the feedback loop to start happening. i never saw the feedback loop when the truck was not towing and i did not notice power loss when it engaged. in fact, i did not notice power loss when towing on uphill stretches either. it was only going downhill where it was noticeable that i had to run at higher revs and that the truck was not cooling.
 
My recommendation, for S/C vevicles, is two tubes of 10,000 cst in a blue clutch.
 
One thought, is silicone oil subject to oxidation? I have a co2 tank, would purging the air out with co2 during assembly be worth the effort? nitrogen, or even better a vacuum would probably be a better but dont have access to either
 
As an update as promised.

In cold weather the truck's temperatures now seem to fluctuate more. The truck does get into a cyclic mode where it runs hotter than usual. I think this is do to the thicker oil, it just doesn't flow as fast in the clutch in this weather and there is a delay which allows the engine to run warmer. But once the oil warms as starts to flow the temps come down.

At operating temperature there is very little resistance to movement so it's definitely not engaged.

I have seen a drop in MPG but I don't think it's from the clutch. I've always had high MPG numbers, unusually high, and now they are more in line with everyone else. What changed? I had a front O2 sensor failure and with that new sensor came an improved running engine and a drop in MPG. So right now I'm getting around 14 mpg on the highway which is where a fully loaded 80 usually runs.
 
Where did you find cold weather? That's with 5K oil, right?
 
Mine is working well, it still roars with cold start, then settles into normal operation, very happy with it. The only time I notice it is when it's allowed to idle for a while on the trail, then nail the skinny peddle I get a brief belt squeal, probably time to put some new belts on the CDan order.

I too have noticed a slight mileage hit, but attribute it to our winter gas. It just turned 70K miles probably should put some tune-up parts on that list also.
 
Well, I am testing a hayden clutch, and will be looking into a blue with oil in the spring...
 

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