Builds Ole Blue 60 gets a fresh start- EFI and more (7 Viewers)

[FJACS]

Spacing it out or trying to keep it cooler is the exact opposite of what the sensor needs.

In some cases placing the sensor in a header collector doesn’t allow it to get hot enough to function properly.

 

[wngrog]

Spacing it out or trying to keep it cooler is the exact opposite of what the sensor needs.

In some cases placing the sensor in a header collector doesn’t allow it to get hot enough to function properly.

So you are saying move it into a tube and not farther downstream?

 

[wngrog]

Turned 5000 miles on the new motor and AFI. Other than the O2 issue I’m still so happy I did this modification.

Also I finished building out the swigoit on the Kaymar. With the hard shell tent nothing else can go up there and I’d rather all Propane, gasoline and CO2 be located outside the cabin

 

[onemanarmy]

anymore work with the O2 sensor location? Where does AFI recommend the install location?

does it lose power when the code is thrown or just run richer/smell?

Do you have a P/N handy for the throttle cable you used?

Can't wait to get mine installed.

 

[wngrog]

The O2 location was approved by AFI after it was brought up here. Plenty of heat there.

Never had it run Rich.

It has run great since the trip where it was determined I had bad O2 sensors and the last trip where I thought maybe it was acting up again, looking back I may have been running out of gas and dealing with a starving fuel pump.

Still not 100% sure. I can’t get it to act up since because all my trips have been an hour or less.


Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000COL2VU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

 

[wngrog]

anymore work with the O2 sensor location? Where does AFI recommend the install location?

does it lose power when the code is thrown or just run richer/smell?

Do you have a P/N handy for the throttle cable you used?

Can't wait to get mine installed.

Timely post.

Per my answer I had not had a problem but was not 100% sure it was fixed

Well today it happened today again and I was close to home so I went into full on troubleshooting mode.

Limped home. 35 mpg, 15-20% throttle

Pulled in shop. Swapped O2 sensor.

Tested.

No change.

Pulled back in. Swapped fuel pump and pre filter.

Fixed.

Cautiously optimistic I had a fuel pump (one supplied with the AFI) that was getting hot and not working

More testing to come and another “spare” pump will be ordered.

In the mean time this pump is quiet and nice. Hopefully It will last a long time.

 

[onemanarmy]

That makes a bit more sense. A bum O2 sensor on a OBD 1 sysytem shouldn't (but every vehicle is different) cause a 'limp home' mode. It would just run rich and may stumble a bit. A bad fuel pump would cause no power and/or cutting off.

Thanks for updating.

 

[wngrog]

400 miles and so far so good with the fuel pump replacement curing my issues. The truck is running outstanding.

I have 5000 miles on the new motor and AFI swap.

Did an oil change and put a fresh battery in it today.

 

[SteveH]

Thanks for the update and great photo.

My '78 FJ40 AFI setup has gone bad twice on me, and it's clearly due to fuel starvation. Gas tank is flowing well (flow test into bucket), and the exhaust smelled super-lean and truck had a no-start condition, and then little power when it finally coughed to life. Barely limped home. No MIL with the AFI system, so I suspect fuel pressure.

Looks like Rock Auto has the Airtex E8094 you mentioned for $61.79. Might be the cheapest 'guess' as to a cure for my problems. I'll report back.

 

[wngrog]

@maxbob002 gave me the idea to check the fuel pump.

I like this pump. Seems quiet and so far so good on performance.

I have a Walbro sitting on go if this one was to fail.

If my truck was not a bit of a rust nightmare in the back I would drop the tank and install an in tank pump just to settle it once and for all but that’s not happening.

 

[wngrog]

Update. It looks like what I thought was an O2 was really a crappy fuel pump.

I’ve got 1000 trouble free miles on it with one long trip with no more of these issues.

I sent it off to the welding spa this weekend for some armor and frame weld repair and beef.

Stay tuned for some updates.

 

[wngrog]

@nvrlose54 has Ole Blue up on the rack and is doing some orthopedic surgery on my frame.

He’s cussing me for soaking all the rusted areas in Fluid film though

 

[cruisermatt]

Why didn’t you pull the tire carrier and plate it all the way? You’re not using the stock tire carrier, and ya missed the one area it needs it, where the spring hanger is bending the bottom of the rail up.

Also, it only takes 25 minutes to pull the fuel tank, which not only makes that job a TON easier. Safer too..

 

[wngrog]

It will be plenty strong. I’m calling the spare carrier a crossmember at this point.

I started pulling bolts for it and they snapped off.

I was very worried about not being able to get the tank back in.

This thing has been just like This the 9 years I’ve had it. It would likely be fine forever but I wanted it plated up.

Justin knows what I wanted and if he overrides me thinking it’s not strong enough that’s fine.

He’s a pro.

 

[nvrlose54]

I’ve decided to pull the tire carrier and finish boxing the frame. Should be a lot stronger! Fuel tank is fine, still room to get a nice bead in there.

 

[gilamonster]

I always wondered why more people didn't box it in, instead of replacing that c channel. I like it! And will be doing the same thing in the future.

 

[cruisermatt]

Well, boxing in the rear frame really only serves to strengthen the area around that rearmost spring hanger when the original C-channels are removed (I think @wngrog pulled his), or if one wanted to french a spring bushing through it like I did on mine. Besides that it doesn’t really add any strength to the frame. Frames get their stretch from the height of the frame rail, like an I-beam.

 

[wngrog]

I got one rivet out on the C Channel (of which mine is nasty) and decided that was not a job I cared to do.

My rusty C Channel is soaked heavily in fluid film to retard the rust but it’s still eating. I keep it clean and dry so it should last my lifetime.

The outer C as Matt says is where the strength is.

I’m having this done to add back a bit what rust has been robbing. And because I found a Cruiserhead with a lift that is a welding machine.

 

[cruisermatt]

Yeah, I drilled out a few rivets and said screw it. By the time it’s a real problem it’ll be another ten years and I’ll probably either have the body off the frame or have rolled the truck off a cliff by then.

 

[wngrog]

Money shot with the hog in the background