I've had moments over the past year where I've considered swithcing over my 60, those moments have definitely passed.
BJ60 to HJ61 Body swap...the five year plan turned right now plan!
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I've had moments over the past year where I've considered swithcing over my 60, those moments have definitely passed.
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- #42
Seapotato, for you to do it would take A LOT more effort and changes than what I'm doing because you'd have to change more than just your firewall, unless I'm mistaken? If you were only using your existing 61, then you would also have to do something about your steering and braking components post-firewall, no? That, my friend, would be an undertaking! I respect your position to pass that baton to some other, shall we say, person with much patience.
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- #43
Also looking forward to see how the piece of 18g lower 3" of rear bottom gate turns out after a local shop bends it up so I can weld it in to my donor gate. Not gonna mention the company yet as I don't want to count my chickens before they hatch, but I will say they were professional and very fairly priced. They noticed the slight curve and bend but I wasn't sure just how important that was to the bottom edge, but I guess I'll find out pretty soon, or maybe some of you know already?
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- #44
Hey, anyone else chop their rear lower quarter off about 3-4" from the bottom? I've seen it done (https://canadianbj.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/frankencruiser_ad.jpg), and if I extended my rear bumper around the sides then it could hide it.
I've noticed that my donor body looks like it had a repair job on the rear lower back as there is a layer of bondo on the outside and I can see tack welds on the inside exactly where that indent is on the very lower rear corner(s).
I will have to cut and paste/repair my left side rear fenderwell and bottom edge so I was wondering if it was worth just cutting it away like the pic in the above Canadianbj link.
Thoughts? Experience? Dare I ask opinion
I've noticed that my donor body looks like it had a repair job on the rear lower back as there is a layer of bondo on the outside and I can see tack welds on the inside exactly where that indent is on the very lower rear corner(s).
I will have to cut and paste/repair my left side rear fenderwell and bottom edge so I was wondering if it was worth just cutting it away like the pic in the above Canadianbj link.
Thoughts? Experience? Dare I ask opinion
Hey, anyone else chop their rear lower quarter off about 3-4" from the bottom? I've seen it done (https://canadianbj.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/frankencruiser_ad.jpg), and if I extended my rear bumper around the sides then it could hide it.
I've noticed that my donor body looks like it had a repair job on the rear lower back as there is a layer of bondo on the outside and I can see tack welds on the inside exactly where that indent is on the very lower rear corner(s).
I will have to cut and paste/repair my left side rear fenderwell and bottom edge so I was wondering if it was worth just cutting it away like the pic in the above Canadianbj link.
Thoughts? Experience? Dare I ask opinion
Yeah, Kevin at WAGONGEAR did that with his total body swap. He did a very meticulous and well documented job on his 60.
He is on the vendor section and you can find his build thread there. If I had to do something about my rear lower quarters,
I'd copy his. Kevin also did the same to his rockers below the doors and made them combo slider, very well done as well.
I also believe TAPAGE here in Mud chopped his rears as well as going soft top. I might have him mixed up with s
someone else.
I chopped the rear 1/4's
Make the cuts straight, cardboard stencil, wire wheel the area where the welds are going really well, don't forget to seam seal afterward. Once it is all done you can spray rustproofing goop all over the area from the inside.
New member... Hello there VI. Bit of an intro....
Make the cuts straight, cardboard stencil, wire wheel the area where the welds are going really well, don't forget to seam seal afterward. Once it is all done you can spray rustproofing goop all over the area from the inside.
New member... Hello there VI. Bit of an intro....
I thought you cut your rear quarters, I like it for sprung over trucks, Jays body is pretty rust free and he is struggling with that same idea.
Looking good brother cruiser man
Rob
Looking good brother cruiser man
Rob
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- #49
Planning on shaving my rear quarters to (1) get rid of rust, (2) increase clearance lines and (3) make room to extend my rear bumper around if/when I feel that is necessary.
There are two version of this on a thread, one is tapered and the other is flat. I think I like the tapered look better and also gives the rain somewhere to run to and also means there isn't a water trough on the inside!
I'm thinking of cutting tomorrow so if you have advice, experience or preference please do so quickly!
There are two version of this on a thread, one is tapered and the other is flat. I think I like the tapered look better and also gives the rain somewhere to run to and also means there isn't a water trough on the inside!
I'm thinking of cutting tomorrow so if you have advice, experience or preference please do so quickly!
I guess it depends on how much vertical inner panel you have to play with. I would think if the panel is solid, allows
a tapered fit then that would be better for your reason and looks as well. If you made it flat, sure would be easier to
tie in the bumper, especially full corner protection. .02
a tapered fit then that would be better for your reason and looks as well. If you made it flat, sure would be easier to
tie in the bumper, especially full corner protection. .02
Ive been taking notes this whole thread.. Great solutions to my minor rust issues!
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- #52
Well, the past two weeks have been a crapshoot and nothings been done...too busy getting ready for an AGM at camp and an electrical company (Osprey Electric out of Parksville) who came up with 13 electricians and donated their time and materials to get a bunch of much needed electrical work done around camp! Needless to say, the Cruiser got the shaft.
Last week I did have a chance to stop in at Millstone Sheet Metal in Duncan as they folded a piece of 18awg for my lower rear gate bottom. It was pretty rotten along the bottom. Although 18awg is a little thick, I figured it was worth a try. The one thing that's a bit of an issue is where the brackets are double thick so folding the front edge over to meet the existing edge is a bit tight. This afternoon I got to cutting out the old and spot welding in the new.
Dimensions I had them build it was 3"x1"
The new piece is slightly larger on the back side where the 1" goes. I cut it slightly smaller so that I could fold it over and I think it will work out well. Obviously I'll have to add a bunch of seam sealer to that edge, but I thing (hope?) it will bolster the strength a bit.
Also, the bottom of the gate has a natural curve to it so I think I was able to match that, but it may also have a bit of a natural rise which I'm not sure I was able to do. I guess I'll see if that matters once I reinstall it!
I'm really wanting to do the Wagongear mod on the tailgate for storage, as well as the rear cargo panels, but unless I can make it happen by personal fabrication it just simply isn't in the budget! I suppose I'm on the lookout for some 1/4" black plastic panelling and some access boxes...
Here's the progress from this afternoon...
Last week I did have a chance to stop in at Millstone Sheet Metal in Duncan as they folded a piece of 18awg for my lower rear gate bottom. It was pretty rotten along the bottom. Although 18awg is a little thick, I figured it was worth a try. The one thing that's a bit of an issue is where the brackets are double thick so folding the front edge over to meet the existing edge is a bit tight. This afternoon I got to cutting out the old and spot welding in the new.
Dimensions I had them build it was 3"x1"
The new piece is slightly larger on the back side where the 1" goes. I cut it slightly smaller so that I could fold it over and I think it will work out well. Obviously I'll have to add a bunch of seam sealer to that edge, but I thing (hope?) it will bolster the strength a bit.
Also, the bottom of the gate has a natural curve to it so I think I was able to match that, but it may also have a bit of a natural rise which I'm not sure I was able to do. I guess I'll see if that matters once I reinstall it!
I'm really wanting to do the Wagongear mod on the tailgate for storage, as well as the rear cargo panels, but unless I can make it happen by personal fabrication it just simply isn't in the budget! I suppose I'm on the lookout for some 1/4" black plastic panelling and some access boxes...
Here's the progress from this afternoon...
Wow, that is pretty good for an afternoon! Nice work as always man. Thanks for keeping this thread updated with your progress.
Good work. I got a 40 you can work on seeing as you have so much spare time.
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- #55
Wombat, sorry, but I have an allergic reaction to 40's at present...hoping to grow out of it when my sons all leave the house
Wombat, sorry, but I have an allergic reaction to 40's at present...hoping to grow out of it when my sons all leave the house
My son is 20 now and no time soon does it seem he will be moving out, so give them till they 18 and buy yourself a nice present.. you deserve it.
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- #57
Tonight I chopped the rear quarters. No turning back now!
I basically drew a line parallel with the indent of the rear quarter just above it and then drew another line from the rear corner transition/indent.
I kept the two angles on because I wanted to use those as (1) an angle to follow down to my inside edge and (2), have something for my new piece of steel to follow as somewhat of a guide for tomorrow when I (hopefully) weld the new pieces in. It looks like there will be lots of clearance for the fuel filler neck too.
I'm hoping to install some sort of storage similar to Wagongear has built, but not exactly sure what, but I suppose I just lost some storage by doing this mod
I Rust Converted the inners tonight in an attempt to stop any rust from spreading, and wire wheeled them before that. It actually wasn't too bad after cutting all the really bad stuff out. A few spots along the very rear corner where there is a seam and support beam, but essentially just surface rust and blew off pretty easily.
Tomorrow morning I'll hit it all with a weld-through primer and let that set.
Then I'll mock up the new pieces and get to welding. Then seam sealer. Then rust preventative paint/stuff.
Here's a few pics of what came off and an idea of the angles. Really glad I did this...it was BAD in there!
I basically drew a line parallel with the indent of the rear quarter just above it and then drew another line from the rear corner transition/indent.
I kept the two angles on because I wanted to use those as (1) an angle to follow down to my inside edge and (2), have something for my new piece of steel to follow as somewhat of a guide for tomorrow when I (hopefully) weld the new pieces in. It looks like there will be lots of clearance for the fuel filler neck too.
I'm hoping to install some sort of storage similar to Wagongear has built, but not exactly sure what, but I suppose I just lost some storage by doing this mod
I Rust Converted the inners tonight in an attempt to stop any rust from spreading, and wire wheeled them before that. It actually wasn't too bad after cutting all the really bad stuff out. A few spots along the very rear corner where there is a seam and support beam, but essentially just surface rust and blew off pretty easily.
Tomorrow morning I'll hit it all with a weld-through primer and let that set.
Then I'll mock up the new pieces and get to welding. Then seam sealer. Then rust preventative paint/stuff.
Here's a few pics of what came off and an idea of the angles. Really glad I did this...it was BAD in there!
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- #58
Wow. Talk about spot welds up the ying yang! Oh, and btw, don't ever let me do body work on your truck 
At minimum, this is better than the riveted chunks of metal the PO riddled throughout my Camo body which all let go in "the accident."
Anywho...
Rear Quarter chops mostly complete. Still need to figure out how to tie into whatever I'm going to do with the outer fenders, then trim the underneath overhang, seam seal it all up, bondo, cross fingers, sand, do stuff twice, then paint?
Also got around to the inner fender well patches. Mostly done but fine tuning still to do.
And the rear gate weatherstripping frame rail was a bit rusty so I chopped out a couple chunks and welded a new piece in.
At minimum, this is better than the riveted chunks of metal the PO riddled throughout my Camo body which all let go in "the accident."Anywho...
Rear Quarter chops mostly complete. Still need to figure out how to tie into whatever I'm going to do with the outer fenders, then trim the underneath overhang, seam seal it all up, bondo, cross fingers, sand, do stuff twice, then paint?
Also got around to the inner fender well patches. Mostly done but fine tuning still to do.
And the rear gate weatherstripping frame rail was a bit rusty so I chopped out a couple chunks and welded a new piece in.
For your first time I think you're doing great! At least you know it'll be solid even if it doesn't look totally perfect. Keep up the good work man; you're on a roll!