Andre,
were are you at with the build.
I need my fix mang.
were are you at with the build.
I need my fix mang.
Biodiesel Piggie #2 Buildup (was Sad Sad day...) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dieselcruiserhead
- Start date
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Here you go. Found it in the "Owners post here" thread.
FJBen said:1976 FJ55
Rebuilt 78 2F
Stock 4 Speed/t-case
78 Fine Spline axles
4 Wheel Disc Brakes
Front /Rear ARB's
4" Alcan spring lift, minimally longer shackles
35" BFG Muds
Aqualu double arm
Custom bumpers/sliders
Warn 5687
Factory A/C currently not working
Snorkle
and some other junk...
Andre, with your great metal forming skills, do you think you could come up with an exoskeleton rack, with strength.
It wouldn't have to look as crude as:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=103208&highlight=skeleton
post number 21
might could down play it some with lights. It wouldn't have to look like it came out of ROAD WARRIOR MOVIE.
I mounted a fj40 seat belt retractor on my B pillar behind the seat and indeed it is definitely in the way, my arm is always against it.
Not to make any nauseated on a fine sunday morning but this rovers front doesn't look to crude.
It wouldn't have to look as crude as:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=103208&highlight=skeleton
post number 21
might could down play it some with lights. It wouldn't have to look like it came out of ROAD WARRIOR MOVIE.
I mounted a fj40 seat belt retractor on my B pillar behind the seat and indeed it is definitely in the way, my arm is always against it.
Not to make any nauseated on a fine sunday morning but this rovers front doesn't look to crude.
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Andre,
On your roof cap removal, did you drill the spot welds inside the windshield area? It looks like you cut straight across.
Mine is definitely coming out. With plans for an internal cage, a stretched body and complete rust removal I really would be foolish not to.
On your roof cap removal, did you drill the spot welds inside the windshield area? It looks like you cut straight across.
Mine is definitely coming out. With plans for an internal cage, a stretched body and complete rust removal I really would be foolish not to.
- Thread starter
- #566
sorry guys been super busy with the film festival (which has been a blast), the OR show which happens in Salt Lake City every year and the place has sort of been like a hostel for the last two weeks. Been fun but not much cruiser work, honestly almost nothing to report, except that a lot of my buddies are digging the project, and the half pipe 
Anyway, as I have stuff I'll post up!
RE rool bar D-90 style, definetely a possibility.. I am planning an internal and could have the exo D-90 style connect to it, via panels that connect keeping the roof in tact that bolt.. honestly a pretty good idea but a lot of work, will have to think about it..
Gumby, the spot welds were drilled and I used a cutoff wheel across the front. Not too rusty up there either. I will have to come up with a good tactic to cleaning weld it all back together. Use the welder in low setting with thinner wire and I think I can get it nice and clean.. In low it doesn't have enough juice to actively arc the .035 I have in it right now, will need to go down to .030 or .023 (commonly called ".025" ) ... Anywhoo, I am planning on actually finishing the interior, paint and all, then the internal roll bar all before I put tha cap back on, it will actually be a later step...
Anyway, as I have stuff I'll post up! RE rool bar D-90 style, definetely a possibility.. I am planning an internal and could have the exo D-90 style connect to it, via panels that connect keeping the roof in tact that bolt.. honestly a pretty good idea but a lot of work, will have to think about it..
Gumby, the spot welds were drilled and I used a cutoff wheel across the front. Not too rusty up there either. I will have to come up with a good tactic to cleaning weld it all back together. Use the welder in low setting with thinner wire and I think I can get it nice and clean.. In low it doesn't have enough juice to actively arc the .035 I have in it right now, will need to go down to .030 or .023 (commonly called ".025" ) ... Anywhoo, I am planning on actually finishing the interior, paint and all, then the internal roll bar all before I put tha cap back on, it will actually be a later step...
Cool. It looked to me like the cap rolls over the front and is spot welded inside the windshield area. I was thinking about drilling mine out there to keep from having to do that long ass weld across the front.
I do need to buy a small spool of .025. I have some .030 in my Miller. The Hobart is running .035 and was tough to get the panel patches on with. I ended up TIG welding them in the end.
I really want to run the inside cage on mine as unobtrusively as possible. I think it'll be a lot easier with the top off.
I do need to buy a small spool of .025. I have some .030 in my Miller. The Hobart is running .035 and was tough to get the panel patches on with. I ended up TIG welding them in the end.
I really want to run the inside cage on mine as unobtrusively as possible. I think it'll be a lot easier with the top off.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
O-k Andre, your audience will be waiting...
A really beefy roof rack would probably help alot in a roll if it covered the entire roof and was properly mounted. This would transfer the weight down the sides where it is stronger. If you don't think the sides are strong enough, tie the rack through to a rear cage. Then you wouldn't have any cage up front in your way, but you would still be covered.
FJBen, I think that your rolled piggy was my brothers pig. DanKunz? Not to hijack (again) but I just joined the ranks of the pig owners today and Dan has been talking about his former 55 all day while he tinkered with my screwy carb.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
i have been saving pics of roof racks for what i may do on my fj45lv. the rovers def. win the award for the coolest racks.
Wow!!!
You have really been making progess. I haven't checked in, well, for too long obviously.
Great job! I now anxiously await updates.
You have really been making progess. I haven't checked in, well, for too long obviously.
Great job! I now anxiously await updates.
- Thread starter
- #573
Sorry it has been so slow guys.. I have been doing things here and there but no camera.. Finally got one tonight, here are some updates...
1) I did a lot of accessory and belt routing work on the engine, along with turbo placement, etc. I put a Ford 4BT style vertical oil filter mount for cleaner oil changes, a Dodge 6BT manifold chopped and flipped upside down for clearance. And trying to figure out how to route the AC compressor, all on the serp belt. Solution: use a lot of Dodge stuff... Photos and writeup here for anyone with a 4BT & interested...
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1897
2) Finally got my NV5600 back...! Hefty ~$1450 bill in the end with tax.. Expensive. I sort of got ripped off but about $3G is going rate for the 5600's these days. Honestly not sure it was all worth it course... But at least I'll have a 6 speed...
So, next plan is to bolt engine / trans etc together, and start fabbing up mounts.. Picked up all the steel. Hopefully start getting some stuff done this week...
1) I did a lot of accessory and belt routing work on the engine, along with turbo placement, etc. I put a Ford 4BT style vertical oil filter mount for cleaner oil changes, a Dodge 6BT manifold chopped and flipped upside down for clearance. And trying to figure out how to route the AC compressor, all on the serp belt. Solution: use a lot of Dodge stuff... Photos and writeup here for anyone with a 4BT & interested...
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1897
2) Finally got my NV5600 back...! Hefty ~$1450 bill in the end with tax.. Expensive. I sort of got ripped off but about $3G is going rate for the 5600's these days. Honestly not sure it was all worth it course... But at least I'll have a 6 speed...
So, next plan is to bolt engine / trans etc together, and start fabbing up mounts.. Picked up all the steel. Hopefully start getting some stuff done this week...
- Thread starter
- #574
and here is the massive NV5600...
I can't wait to see that combo put together. What TC are you going to use? 271? I sure hope your engine hoist is up to the weight.
Ryan.
Ryan.
Looking good Andre.
keep it up.
keep it up.
- Thread starter
- #577
I have that upper slide mount which is super stout.. But also a normal engine hoist too, we'll see I'll take pics.. T case wise, a Dana 300 with a JB conversions 29 spline kit.. Don't have the kit or the $$ right now for the gear (about $300 if I remember correctly) so I will have ot get creative to bolt it all up for now. After I do the engine/trans mount, will start having to do the trans tunnel etc.. Lots of fun fab coming up
- Thread starter
- #578
sounds kind of dumb but was going through some old pics tonight trying to figure out desired height since I have some options with the FZJ80 chassis, and found this shot.. Makes me remember why I went through all that trouble on the rear of the truck for this one, I was just thinking to myself "boy that is a lot of clearance in the rear" LOL...
Before I get s*** for it from Kurt, notice the non matching rim in the rear.. We were cruising on a dirt road the night before when this happened.. (Honestly slightly do to a 1/4" aluminum wheel spacer) and also do to not double checking torque after using an air gun.. I had something like 600 miles on the truck like this at this point, luckily it fell off on a dirt road!
You can also see cracked bondo in the left rear, another reason I built the fancy rear bumper versus welding straight to the body again... Photos were in Moab early 06, I think Feb or March?
Before I get s*** for it from Kurt, notice the non matching rim in the rear.. We were cruising on a dirt road the night before when this happened.. (Honestly slightly do to a 1/4" aluminum wheel spacer) and also do to not double checking torque after using an air gun.. I had something like 600 miles on the truck like this at this point, luckily it fell off on a dirt road!
You can also see cracked bondo in the left rear, another reason I built the fancy rear bumper versus welding straight to the body again... Photos were in Moab early 06, I think Feb or March?
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- Thread starter
- #579
OK some updates... Not much...
Not sure if you guys saw my engine buildup thead over on 4BTswaps.com
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=304
But I did quite a bit (as mentioned earlier) to start prepping / mounting accessories, etc. Motor is still super dirty, have not cleaned up yet but I basically broke it down into a long block...
It will be like this for a little while, before I do compression test and ultimately decide whether to rebuild it or jut do the head.. It will only be another $500 or so if I am lucky to rebuild, assuming everything is in good shape in the engine as it probably should be as the engine ran well.. Just leaked, a lot...
Not sure if you guys saw my engine buildup thead over on 4BTswaps.com
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=304
But I did quite a bit (as mentioned earlier) to start prepping / mounting accessories, etc. Motor is still super dirty, have not cleaned up yet but I basically broke it down into a long block...
It will be like this for a little while, before I do compression test and ultimately decide whether to rebuild it or jut do the head.. It will only be another $500 or so if I am lucky to rebuild, assuming everything is in good shape in the engine as it probably should be as the engine ran well.. Just leaked, a lot...
- Thread starter
- #580
Here is my post looking for advice on a rebuild..
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276
Here in Utah there are diesel guys all over the place, so I am going to see if I can dig up someone who would help me rebuild this motor for cheap possibly, us put it together ourselves, help me with the piston seating, bearing placement, etc, to make sure I get it all right.. But I am still on the fence a little bit as the truck/engine do run well...
Anyway, all this gets me closer to a rebuild regardless and is all probably a good idea to get the engine super clean before painting & regasketing which I'll have to do to avoid more leaks..
So, as I started pulling things apart, discovered my timing pin (cummins' have a neat pin that helps easily/correctly place engine at TDC), and found it was broken inside of engine...
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276
Here in Utah there are diesel guys all over the place, so I am going to see if I can dig up someone who would help me rebuild this motor for cheap possibly, us put it together ourselves, help me with the piston seating, bearing placement, etc, to make sure I get it all right.. But I am still on the fence a little bit as the truck/engine do run well...
Anyway, all this gets me closer to a rebuild regardless and is all probably a good idea to get the engine super clean before painting & regasketing which I'll have to do to avoid more leaks..
So, as I started pulling things apart, discovered my timing pin (cummins' have a neat pin that helps easily/correctly place engine at TDC), and found it was broken inside of engine...
