Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #361
Bit nerve racking, riveting brackets to your new paint work, hoping your calculations from over a year ago work.
Builds Billy's excellent FJ73-12HT - resto-modded - n that
- Thread starter Billyfj7312ht
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- 12ht 70 series fj73 restoration
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Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #362
I used new rear seals for the flares, but could not get the front seals, I tried a few times but to no avail. Luckily the ones on the flares Ken gave me were in good nick.
I used the codes on the back of the flares I received a few years ago and matched the mud flaps up to them.
Ordered the same era factory wing mirrors.
I used the codes on the back of the flares I received a few years ago and matched the mud flaps up to them.
Ordered the same era factory wing mirrors.
Really coming together now. Looks like the nicest truck ever. Glad you went with the flares, they really set up the looks best. Won’t be long now.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
would Mr. T appreciate the amount of love you are putting in to this .. ?
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #365
I hope so, I'm trying to keep as much 70 series as I can, it's tempting with electronic gadgets and front mount intercooler but I've grown to love the front grill/headlights/bar combo and old school dash..... that to me is iconic imo.
Ended up with full height rear door seals for my model along with front door seals.
I cut the seals about 4 inches above the doors
Seals fit real well with all the nylon pins holding them in place
I got some square nylon grommets in black and white for 10-12# screws and some other clips.
TLC Norway
woodwelder
oh, this looks great!!!!
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #368
Couldn't find a steering wheel of my era that was in better nick than the one I had. The newer ones ...well looked newer and cost a bit.
So I decided to paint my brown one.
The red clay/mud and skin from 32 years oozed out as I cleaned it and made me gag, it was like a scene from Ghost where she had that turn table full of red clay oozing between her fingers.......well sorta....I had my shirt buttoned up though.
Removed the horn mechanism
Cleaned and rust converter
The foam grip was moving separate to the steering wheel frame, it rolled, so I got some syringes and filled them with a super glue for plastic. I went through 5 in all because it went off in the needle when it sat for 2 seconds.
I painted it all again. The grip is only painted to seal it as I have ordered a leather steering wheel cover. Thing is I could only get a wider one and have to redrill the leather for the stiching when it turns up.
So I decided to paint my brown one.
The red clay/mud and skin from 32 years oozed out as I cleaned it and made me gag, it was like a scene from Ghost where she had that turn table full of red clay oozing between her fingers.......well sorta....I had my shirt buttoned up though.
Removed the horn mechanism
Cleaned and rust converter
The foam grip was moving separate to the steering wheel frame, it rolled, so I got some syringes and filled them with a super glue for plastic. I went through 5 in all because it went off in the needle when it sat for 2 seconds.
I painted it all again. The grip is only painted to seal it as I have ordered a leather steering wheel cover. Thing is I could only get a wider one and have to redrill the leather for the stiching when it turns up.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #369
The wheels a bit worse for wear but it's solid and the black cover will clean it up a bit more.
I ended up painting the glove box, air vents and radio/main facia grey. I also have new gear and trans stick knobs on their way from the U.S
Fitted the hinges to the inside of the glove box front. Had to retap the bolts one size up (M6) because the old threads were flogged.
Fit the inside guard protectors.
Sorry about the dirty lens. they just pushed into the holes, no tools required.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #370
Ordered a few things I can start over xmas. After a bit more research I decided to go with 450 x 300 x 76
I'm hoping to collect my hood with fitted scoop this week.
Chasing 4 - 90 deg silicone bends.
Starting to run out of paint when my wife said I should start doing some Xmas prep stuff like the new outdoor setting I promised before the fat man comes down the chimney. My suggestion.......re-paint the existing outdoor setting in a charcoal grey 2pac, cause it wont chip and I have some in the shed, might have to buy some more though...
She's not happy with my car fetish ATM so now I'm subliminally changing stuff around us so as to subtly resemble my car in an attempt to bring us all closer together.
She wants some shade over the outdoor lounges next so I'm thinking of getting the FRP top out and hang it above them.
I'm hoping to collect my hood with fitted scoop this week.
Chasing 4 - 90 deg silicone bends.
Starting to run out of paint when my wife said I should start doing some Xmas prep stuff like the new outdoor setting I promised before the fat man comes down the chimney. My suggestion.......re-paint the existing outdoor setting in a charcoal grey 2pac, cause it wont chip and I have some in the shed, might have to buy some more though...
She's not happy with my car fetish ATM so now I'm subliminally changing stuff around us so as to subtly resemble my car in an attempt to bring us all closer together.
She wants some shade over the outdoor lounges next so I'm thinking of getting the FRP top out and hang it above them.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #371
Picked the hood up with scoop. I'll bolt the scoop down later, after I work the intercooler surround and grille out.
As usual starting one job leads to another. I decided to finish off the airbox so I didn't have to struggle with it later when there was less space in the engine bay.
As usual starting one job leads to another. I decided to finish off the airbox so I didn't have to struggle with it later when there was less space in the engine bay.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #372
The Safari inlet is quite a bit bigger so I enlarged the airbox entry, the exit is still around the factory size though. I'll seal it all with polyurethane sealant before riveting it on. The Safari inlet lines up perfectly with the snorkel so I think I'll just grease the O Ring??
QUESTION? ..... Do you think I need to put sealant on the O Ring to be sure or just some silicone grease incase I have to take it off??? It seems to grip really tight.
Procrastinating more I decided to fit the leather steering wheel grip I received from Ebay. They made it to suit my diameter (410mm) but it was for a thicker steering wheel so I cut 12mm of the width and re - punched the stitch holes so it would pull up tight. Feels good!
The intercooler just fits, but had to remove the heater control bracket and move the pipe down about an inch....so far its only only 25% fitted.
In the shot below you can see my second fuel filter and in between that and the brake booster is an 80 series cylinder used for the vacuum shut off valve.
Next is the aluminium support frame for the intercooler.
QUESTION? ..... Do you think I need to put sealant on the O Ring to be sure or just some silicone grease incase I have to take it off??? It seems to grip really tight.
Procrastinating more I decided to fit the leather steering wheel grip I received from Ebay. They made it to suit my diameter (410mm) but it was for a thicker steering wheel so I cut 12mm of the width and re - punched the stitch holes so it would pull up tight. Feels good!
The intercooler just fits, but had to remove the heater control bracket and move the pipe down about an inch....so far its only only 25% fitted.
In the shot below you can see my second fuel filter and in between that and the brake booster is an 80 series cylinder used for the vacuum shut off valve.
Next is the aluminium support frame for the intercooler.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #373
Made some feet for the frame and brackets for my gauge pod face.
had it all welded including 2 round plates on the pipes so I can tap some sensors in.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #374
I epoxied the aluminium brackets to the back of the pod face.
The channel lines up with the factory bracket screw holes and once screwed in place creates a fin for the clips in the pod cover to grip like the original pod face,
You can see in this photo where I removed the heater adjustment bracket so I could move it down an inch under the intercooler. (it misses the PCV tappet cover inlet, its just the angle of photo)
Installed a 6mm nutsert and screwed the VSV out of the way.
There's about 11/4" clearance between the top of the intercooler and the under side of the hood, except at the very back where the back rib under the bonnet protrudes down and is only about 1/4" clearance. The intercooler finishes just short of the rib so it can not go back any further.
I cleaned the intake pipe with some aluminium cleaner and brush, didn't bother with a polish, but I did sand the name plate to give it a brushed look along with some red paint.
The channel lines up with the factory bracket screw holes and once screwed in place creates a fin for the clips in the pod cover to grip like the original pod face,
You can see in this photo where I removed the heater adjustment bracket so I could move it down an inch under the intercooler. (it misses the PCV tappet cover inlet, its just the angle of photo)
Installed a 6mm nutsert and screwed the VSV out of the way.
There's about 11/4" clearance between the top of the intercooler and the under side of the hood, except at the very back where the back rib under the bonnet protrudes down and is only about 1/4" clearance. The intercooler finishes just short of the rib so it can not go back any further.
I cleaned the intake pipe with some aluminium cleaner and brush, didn't bother with a polish, but I did sand the name plate to give it a brushed look along with some red paint.
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #375
The PCV pipe got in the way of the frame leg, so I removed it. Cut it down so I could still use the flanged end and have ordered a provent 2000.
I sealed the cross over pipe and lettering with a clear 2pac. Airbox finished, radiator shroud installed. just need one more 90 deg silicone joiner.
Thinking of using one of the offcuts from the back door rubbers I cut down for the seal between hood and intercooler.
I sealed the cross over pipe and lettering with a clear 2pac. Airbox finished, radiator shroud installed. just need one more 90 deg silicone joiner.
Thinking of using one of the offcuts from the back door rubbers I cut down for the seal between hood and intercooler.
Time for more updates
DamoPeru
SILVER Star
I hear you brother, hang in there
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
- Thread starter
- #380
Righto so I had a bit of a hiccup. I forgot to allow for a screen that goes on top of the intercooler and it ended up hitting the under side of my hood. Only just but it would a drove me crazy so I removed 10mm off the back legs of the frame to drop it down.
I also decided to move my second battery behind the front seats so I could get at my provent easier and to create space for a fuse box.
This led to making a heat shield which doubles as the bracket for the Provent.
This is the mesh screen I got for the intercooler.
I also started working on the gauges and centre console.
I also decided to move my second battery behind the front seats so I could get at my provent easier and to create space for a fuse box.
This led to making a heat shield which doubles as the bracket for the Provent.
This is the mesh screen I got for the intercooler.
I also started working on the gauges and centre console.
