If you go that route, proceed with caution. Many if not most so-called high output alternators are a bit scammy. Too many windings, , too tightly wrapped, case too small, prone to overheating and never come close to claimed output unless you’re drag racing.
I run a pair of Northstar AGM-27F batteries, but don't have a winch. I'm running a factory 110 amp alternator out of a 79 series, and it's just fine. I could see no reason ever to have an alternator with a huge 200+ amp rating, and can't conceivably see how one that fits within the size constraints can *reliably* push out that much current without some issues about heat, wear, etc.
Not to derail to bad but I’ve always wanted to ask how much this 80 weighs with all those gadgets and gear? You actually seem to wheel it and drive the crap out it!
I have a larger ACM battery installed. Had to cut the bottom corner like the piece pictured above. You will need a different way to tie the battery down.
The negative terminal touches the hood when it's closed. I didn't really like that, so I added a small amount of electrical tape to the hood.
Look at a GM cs144 conversation for your alternator, caddilac alt designed for heated windheild and all the electronics, puts out 100amps at idle and are rated up to 200amps factory.. dual fans internal they are a beast and cheep.. the one off the esclade is what i am running and it will put out some serious amperage, just put a big blow fuse in, the esclade has a nice one mounted on the alt bracket, if the alt lead goes to ground without one you will be arc welding.. ohh and #4 copper leads
Because NOW with extreme aire and red winch drawing at same time Im seriously thinking of reinstalling dual AGM up front but with a blue sea ml acr in the middle.
Man, that is one nice winch. Per the Red Winch site, it only requires 70psi to operate the pneumatic brake so it sounds like you already have everything needed to make it work. Run both the winch and AC off the staring batt using a high output alternator (100A circuit breaker on the Magnum). A group 31 would definitely help. This combined with a 2.5 GA air tank with a manifold and pressure switch should be more than enough. How much do you use the brake? Should be able to cycle the solenoid a dozen times before the compressor kicks. I'm surprised Red Winch hasn't been of any help? Extremeaire has amazing customer support as well.
Another vote for dual Group 31s wired in sequence. I've been running a single Group 31 for the past few years and it's worked very well but I do plan to add a second one at some point. This thing barely fits in the stock battery box and it does require a small section to be cut out (Phil posted a photo of the mod). The area of the battery box where the outside corner of the battery nearest the cab is what needs to be clearanced.
I'm running dual Optima D31A batteries at the moment. I've run dual D31M as well. No modifcations to make them fit in the factory battery holders - I'm using factory J hooks. The + cable can be a bit of a stretch to reach.
I wrote this up 13 years ago and am still using the same system today.
I did add some big fuses to the main and a 100A circuit to the back of the truck after those pictures.
I buy them in pairs and just get whichever is least expensive when it is time to replace them. My dual battery 'controller' is a pair of big marine switches - one for the truck and one for the winch. Inevitably one is -done- before the other. I test them out on an Optima charger and keep the 'ok' one for the wife's 80. This has worked pretty well.
Regardless of how much battery you have - batteries are only storage. Before I go on trips I will top off both gas tanks and both batteries (charge them overnight before). The alternator wasn't meant to replenish these kinds of capacities - and won't on short trips or where you're using the winch and/or fridge while stopped and batteries loose charge just sitting.
My local freightliner dealer has the best deal on group31 batteries as he buys them 2-3 pallets at a time, usually arround 100$ each....the two that are in my crew cab are 10 years old and still going... but it has a 200amp motorola alternator conversion with the regulator set at 14v at the batteries...
Keeping them topped off and not running them down too far. makes them last longer..
Great thread by the way interesting to see how different people solved the same problem..
@RFB - not exactly on your question, but do you use a hand throttle?
I been cheating on a single battery & hand throttle- (but I don’t camp/RTT/etc) - but even on some longer duration but lower amp draws via compound rope setups that had a pulley reset, my M12K has been happy & I get a good 5yrs between batteries (always been AGMs since the winch, just because I like them).
I have a trickle charge pigtail on it & generally plug it in that night when I get home to let it rest/stabilize (in my head it helps, exactly ZERO science behind it).
If you don’t have a hand throttle, it’s a $50 & 10min install (including the trip to the frig for beer)
Just wanted to show everyone this $15 Toro lawnmower throttle cable from eBay. This along with a backing nut from Ace Hardware, a cable stop, and a bicycle brake cable barrel adjuster netted me a $20 hand throttle. Enjoy the pics!
Just wanted to show everyone this $15 Toro lawnmower throttle cable from eBay. This along with a backing nut from Ace Hardware, a cable stop, and a bicycle brake cable barrel adjuster netted me a $20 hand throttle. Enjoy the pics!
My 80's has been good all year so I saw it fitting to get it something for Christmas. I have wanted a hand throttle to kick up the RPM's when running the Puma. The factory version from Slee is like $150 almost the same for the SOR unit. My 80 has been good but not that good. So I went a...